D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
08-09-2014, 09:43 PM
#26
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
he doesn't need to customize an engine harness like you would need to with an LS3 or 1jzgte into a 300zx
08-09-2014, 09:46 PM
#27
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
First off, you seem confused about what the "Cheap/Fast/Reliable" circle is about. If you don't want to make your car faster, it doesn't apply to you. If you want it to be cheap and reliable, leave it alone. Period. I don't have to imagine what a fresh rebuild after 170k would feel like - I've done it, and I know the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Have you compression tested your motor? Is there anything wrong with it, or do you just feel like tinkering with it?
Stock CR on a D16Y8 is 9.6:1. If you think going from 9.6:1 to 9.93:1 will make a noticeable different in a 1.6L, you are sorely mistaken. You might get 15 BHP out of that, if you're lucky. Basic bolt-ons? Another 5, if you tune it. $500, plus the cost of a tune, for 5 BHP. Cam? There goes another $500, plus the cost of a tune. Flow work, there goes another $300+, plus the tune. FPR? Well, if you feel like wasting $100+ on a part that you under no circumstances need, by all means.
A Delta Cam is only $80-100, they are regrinds, and work well with the D's. The port and polishing I will be doing myself. Just a light port job, getting rid of the casting marks, porting the intake side, 80 grit, polishing the exhaust side. Hitting the bowls, runners, staying away from the floor etc. I still don't see how you get only 5bhp of I/H/E, I've seen dyno's where the Ebay I/H/E does 10WHP. The FPR is for the stock ECU. For I/H/E & FPR, $200-300. Plus wideband, ostrich & hulog $800 total
Not counting machine work, engine internals, or any of the stroker nonsense, you're already out $1400, plus the cost of a tune. Add in the cost of a crank, rods, pistons, bearings, seals, break-in oil, break-in dyno time, and a tune, and you're looking at $2000 for your little stroker, and on top of that, you're stuck hoping you didn't mess anything up during reassembly. All for a grand total of 50 BHP grand total, at most.
You don't have to believe me. I've done it, I've helped multiple people do it, and I've posted parts lists for doing it here on this forum. It's entirely possible to do.
At the end of the day, you're sticking your fingers in something that you don't need to be touching, ferretting with things you don't understand, wasting your money on something that you'll barely be able to notice, and wasting our time with your refusal to listen to what we're saying.
At the end of the day, you're sticking your fingers in something that you don't need to be touching, ferretting with things you don't understand, wasting your money on something that you'll barely be able to notice, and wasting our time with your refusal to listen to what we're saying.
The best/cheapest Ebay EMUSA turbo kit is $700, then I still need injectors $200-300, 2.5 exhaust $100, Oil lines & restrictor $100, boost gauge $60, oil feed sandwich $30, air filter $50, Exedy stg 1 clutch $100, that comes out to $1,500 plus $500 for tuning. $2,000 for hit or miss parts while watching and listening to everything all the time. Wanna get a new turbo to replace that china charger, $400-600, HKS BOV? $200, Wastegate $100? Mani? $100. Bamn, $3000 right there. Still on a old *** motor.
08-09-2014, 09:54 PM
#28
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
On a K-series, you might get 5-15 hp with I/H/E and a dyno tune.
On your grocery-getter D-series? 5hp is seriously wishful thinking.
And I'm not even going to begin discussing the rest of your post ^^
My head already hurts from this thread. I'm not spoon-feeding anymore. You really need to do more research; from proper, valid sources.
08-09-2014, 10:11 PM
#29
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
You guys need to stop underestimating the D. There's a guy over on D Series that has about 200 crank horsepower in his N.A d16z6. Sure, hes basically racebuilt it, but its proof of concept.
would it b more cost effective to get 200 from a b16? Yeah. Not to mention a comparative super market vs convenience store as far as aftermarket support goes.
can you get 300 from a N.a. GSR? Yeah. Cant do that with a D.
and whoever said you get 15hp from I/H/E on a K is smoking something.
you can literally get more than that with a CAI
oh and also, you can get nearly 100hp from flowmods on a J
would it b more cost effective to get 200 from a b16? Yeah. Not to mention a comparative super market vs convenience store as far as aftermarket support goes.
can you get 300 from a N.a. GSR? Yeah. Cant do that with a D.
and whoever said you get 15hp from I/H/E on a K is smoking something.
you can literally get more than that with a CAI
oh and also, you can get nearly 100hp from flowmods on a J
Last edited by shotoutacc0rd; 08-09-2014 at 10:16 PM. Reason: idk why but i didnt realize what i was saying, a J has no header
08-09-2014, 10:27 PM
#30
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
I will give you credit for one thing, OP. At least you seem to have tried to put a little bit of thought and research into it. Unfortunately, your research is misguided.
First off, if you have metal shavings in your oil, that's a spun bearing. Just because you don't hear a knock doesn't mean bearings didn't spin. There's no two sides to that.
Your numbers are wrong to the point that I actually chuckled.
Bearings will cost you more than $40, especially since you have a hard-on for OEM. OEM crank bearings are $10 each, and you need 10, plus another $10 for your thrust bearings. OEM rod bearings, once again $10 each, and you need 8. Boom, $190 in bearings, and that's not counting the cost to have everything mic'd to make sure you get the correct size, unless you plan on doing that bit of machine work yourself, too. Yeah, add another $400 for the quality tools to do it right.
$35 for a head gasket? You realize there's more to replacing a head gasket than just the gasket, right? A lot more. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube grommets, and head bolts are just the hardware side of things. Try more like another $100, bare minimum. Realistically, more like $150-$200, and that's not even counting the things that you should do, such as valve guides, valve stem seals, and the machine work involved there.
$30 for oil? You obviously don't understand how engine break-in works - try more like $100 for oil, if you actually want to do it correctly.
You want to do the flow work yourself? Yeah, have fun with that. Pretty sure you don't have a basic understanding of air velocity. Pop quiz: Under what circumstances are larger runners beneficial? For your given goals, would larger, or smaller runners be better? What does Bernoulli's Principle mean?
You won't get more than 15 BHP out of basic bolt-ons (especially low-quality ones) with a professional tune. Period. Get that thought out of your head. It isn't going to happen. Whoever told you it would should be slapped.
You're also painfully ignorant when it comes to turbo setups. No where in this thread did I say to buy a kit. You obviously are too bullheaded to even read a parts list if I gave you one, so I won't waste either of our time with that.
Shotout, shut the **** up. You're wrong, and we don't need you shitting up these forums with your ****-poor "information". People like you are the reason people like OP are so confused, and set in their confusion. Also, J series engines do have headers.
First off, if you have metal shavings in your oil, that's a spun bearing. Just because you don't hear a knock doesn't mean bearings didn't spin. There's no two sides to that.
Your numbers are wrong to the point that I actually chuckled.
Bearings will cost you more than $40, especially since you have a hard-on for OEM. OEM crank bearings are $10 each, and you need 10, plus another $10 for your thrust bearings. OEM rod bearings, once again $10 each, and you need 8. Boom, $190 in bearings, and that's not counting the cost to have everything mic'd to make sure you get the correct size, unless you plan on doing that bit of machine work yourself, too. Yeah, add another $400 for the quality tools to do it right.
$35 for a head gasket? You realize there's more to replacing a head gasket than just the gasket, right? A lot more. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube grommets, and head bolts are just the hardware side of things. Try more like another $100, bare minimum. Realistically, more like $150-$200, and that's not even counting the things that you should do, such as valve guides, valve stem seals, and the machine work involved there.
$30 for oil? You obviously don't understand how engine break-in works - try more like $100 for oil, if you actually want to do it correctly.
You want to do the flow work yourself? Yeah, have fun with that. Pretty sure you don't have a basic understanding of air velocity. Pop quiz: Under what circumstances are larger runners beneficial? For your given goals, would larger, or smaller runners be better? What does Bernoulli's Principle mean?
You won't get more than 15 BHP out of basic bolt-ons (especially low-quality ones) with a professional tune. Period. Get that thought out of your head. It isn't going to happen. Whoever told you it would should be slapped.
You're also painfully ignorant when it comes to turbo setups. No where in this thread did I say to buy a kit. You obviously are too bullheaded to even read a parts list if I gave you one, so I won't waste either of our time with that.
Shotout, shut the **** up. You're wrong, and we don't need you shitting up these forums with your ****-poor "information". People like you are the reason people like OP are so confused, and set in their confusion. Also, J series engines do have headers.
08-09-2014, 10:38 PM
#32
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Just go away. Not only are you shitting up these forums with misinformation, you're shitting them up with completely irrelevant misinformation.18000-P8E-A00. Look up that part number, tell me what it's for, then ****. Off.
08-09-2014, 10:50 PM
#33
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
I completely side with the OP on this. Hes already rebuilding his engine, he may as well improve on the design while hes doing it. I retract my statements telling him to swap the engine, and we shouldn't be butts to him for wanting to give his D more powah while hes already opening the can of worms.
OP, I say stroke it.
OP, I say stroke it.
08-09-2014, 11:04 PM
#34
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
i remember a dyno thread for a d15 mini me n/a over on dseries awhile back. guy hit 142whp. iirc, he had p29's, cam, etc. lots of dyno and tune time. for your sake, out of the three choices you listed, use the pm6's and AT LEAST send your ecu out to pherable for a safe basemap.
08-10-2014, 07:49 AM
#35
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
I will give you credit for one thing, OP. At least you seem to have tried to put a little bit of thought and research into it. Unfortunately, your research is misguided.
First off, if you have metal shavings in your oil, that's a spun bearing. Just because you don't hear a knock doesn't mean bearings didn't spin. There's no two sides to that.
Your numbers are wrong to the point that I actually chuckled.
Bearings will cost you more than $40, especially since you have a hard-on for OEM. OEM crank bearings are $10 each, and you need 10, plus another $10 for your thrust bearings. OEM rod bearings, once again $10 each, and you need 8. Boom, $190 in bearings, and that's not counting the cost to have everything mic'd to make sure you get the correct size, unless you plan on doing that bit of machine work yourself, too. Yeah, add another $400 for the quality tools to do it right.
$35 for a head gasket? You realize there's more to replacing a head gasket than just the gasket, right? A lot more. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube grommets, and head bolts are just the hardware side of things. Try more like another $100, bare minimum. Realistically, more like $150-$200, and that's not even counting the things that you should do, such as valve guides, valve stem seals, and the machine work involved there.
$30 for oil? You obviously don't understand how engine break-in works - try more like $100 for oil, if you actually want to do it correctly.
You want to do the flow work yourself? Yeah, have fun with that. Pretty sure you don't have a basic understanding of air velocity. Pop quiz: Under what circumstances are larger runners beneficial? For your given goals, would larger, or smaller runners be better? What does Bernoulli's Principle mean?
You won't get more than 15 BHP out of basic bolt-ons (especially low-quality ones) with a professional tune. Period. Get that thought out of your head. It isn't going to happen. Whoever told you it would should be slapped.
You're also painfully ignorant when it comes to turbo setups. No where in this thread did I say to buy a kit. You obviously are too bullheaded to even read a parts list if I gave you one, so I won't waste either of our time with that.
Shotout, shut the **** up. You're wrong, and we don't need you shitting up these forums with your ****-poor "information". People like you are the reason people like OP are so confused, and set in their confusion. Also, J series engines do have headers.
First off, if you have metal shavings in your oil, that's a spun bearing. Just because you don't hear a knock doesn't mean bearings didn't spin. There's no two sides to that.
Your numbers are wrong to the point that I actually chuckled.
Bearings will cost you more than $40, especially since you have a hard-on for OEM. OEM crank bearings are $10 each, and you need 10, plus another $10 for your thrust bearings. OEM rod bearings, once again $10 each, and you need 8. Boom, $190 in bearings, and that's not counting the cost to have everything mic'd to make sure you get the correct size, unless you plan on doing that bit of machine work yourself, too. Yeah, add another $400 for the quality tools to do it right.
$35 for a head gasket? You realize there's more to replacing a head gasket than just the gasket, right? A lot more. Intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube grommets, and head bolts are just the hardware side of things. Try more like another $100, bare minimum. Realistically, more like $150-$200, and that's not even counting the things that you should do, such as valve guides, valve stem seals, and the machine work involved there.
$30 for oil? You obviously don't understand how engine break-in works - try more like $100 for oil, if you actually want to do it correctly.
You want to do the flow work yourself? Yeah, have fun with that. Pretty sure you don't have a basic understanding of air velocity. Pop quiz: Under what circumstances are larger runners beneficial? For your given goals, would larger, or smaller runners be better? What does Bernoulli's Principle mean?
You won't get more than 15 BHP out of basic bolt-ons (especially low-quality ones) with a professional tune. Period. Get that thought out of your head. It isn't going to happen. Whoever told you it would should be slapped.
You're also painfully ignorant when it comes to turbo setups. No where in this thread did I say to buy a kit. You obviously are too bullheaded to even read a parts list if I gave you one, so I won't waste either of our time with that.
Shotout, shut the **** up. You're wrong, and we don't need you shitting up these forums with your ****-poor "information". People like you are the reason people like OP are so confused, and set in their confusion. Also, J series engines do have headers.
$190 in bearings? I paid $40 for KING bearings, main and rods. You don't need to go OEM, and most people don't. Ever heard of ACL? KING? CLEVITE? Your trying to make an argument about spending top dollar for my build, but then shoot me a $1,000 price for a turbo build! Like I said before your ridiculous.
I plasigauged it, like everybody else does at I got .002 on the Y7 block with oem bearings and .001 with the Kings. I think that method works just fine.
Who goes out and spends $400 for micrometers? NOOOOOBODY!
I already posted that a seal kit is $60, I guess you failed to comprehend another part of my post. Only thing is I would use a OEM headgasket, the other seals are just fine and been used countless times on rebuilds over at D-Series.Org
Larger runners are more for top end, smaller for bottom end. You lose velocity with larger runners. Like I said earlier, I'm just removing the casting marks and using low grit for atomization on the intake said, higher grit on the exhaust side to polish.
With over 3,000 post, I expected more out of you.
I completely side with the OP on this. Hes already rebuilding his engine, he may as well improve on the design while hes doing it. I retract my statements telling him to swap the engine, and we shouldn't be butts to him for wanting to give his D more powah while hes already opening the can of worms.
OP, I say stroke it.
OP, I say stroke it.
I need to take care of the motor.
i remember a dyno thread for a d15 mini me n/a over on dseries awhile back. guy hit 142whp. iirc, he had p29's, cam, etc. lots of dyno and tune time. for your sake, out of the three choices you listed, use the pm6's and AT LEAST send your ecu out to pherable for a safe basemap.
Yeah, I think I'll just tune off his basemap. I know its possible to get good hp from these engines running high compression, but I'm aiming for lower comp and a lower hp goal. With going into the bock and head, these engines come alive, not just by bolting on I/H/E like many people think.
08-10-2014, 08:24 AM
#36
Fish Twig
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Still hunting that foo up there
Posts: 15,555
Received 309 Likes
on
285 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
I completely side with the OP on this. Hes already rebuilding his engine, he may as well improve on the design while hes doing it. I retract my statements telling him to swap the engine, and we shouldn't be butts to him for wanting to give his D more powah while hes already opening the can of worms.
OP, I say stroke it.
OP, I say stroke it.
OP if you're going to sit there and defend your cost of the build than I assume you already know what you're building right?
08-10-2014, 08:34 AM
#37
08-10-2014, 08:46 AM
#38
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Did you guys miss the yakno title? Its boldes on every.single.post.
did you miss the part where he already has random spare parts to put together a Frankensteiny engine? Or that the motor hes got now is sad and will sooner or hopefully later catastrophically fail?
hes just trying to decide which way to go with it, if he should stroke the engine lol, bump the compression a little bit, or what. I didnt know that he already had spare parts so I was telling to him jump into a better platform.
this isn't about "how do I soup up my d" its more like "I broke my D guys! I wanna rebuild it better! We have the technology! The $600 d!!"
did you miss the part where he already has random spare parts to put together a Frankensteiny engine? Or that the motor hes got now is sad and will sooner or hopefully later catastrophically fail?
hes just trying to decide which way to go with it, if he should stroke the engine lol, bump the compression a little bit, or what. I didnt know that he already had spare parts so I was telling to him jump into a better platform.
this isn't about "how do I soup up my d" its more like "I broke my D guys! I wanna rebuild it better! We have the technology! The $600 d!!"
08-10-2014, 08:51 AM
#39
Fish Twig
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Still hunting that foo up there
Posts: 15,555
Received 309 Likes
on
285 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Did you guys miss the yakno title? Its boldes on every.single.post.
did you miss the part where he already has random spare parts to put together a Frankensteiny engine? Or that the motor hes got now is sad and will sooner or hopefully later catastrophically fail?
hes just trying to decide which way to go with it, if he should stroke the engine lol, bump the compression a little bit, or what. I didnt know that he already had spare parts so I was telling to him jump into a better platform.
this isn't about "how do I soup up my d" its more like "I broke my D guys! I wanna rebuild it better! We have the technology! The $600 d!!"
did you miss the part where he already has random spare parts to put together a Frankensteiny engine? Or that the motor hes got now is sad and will sooner or hopefully later catastrophically fail?
hes just trying to decide which way to go with it, if he should stroke the engine lol, bump the compression a little bit, or what. I didnt know that he already had spare parts so I was telling to him jump into a better platform.
this isn't about "how do I soup up my d" its more like "I broke my D guys! I wanna rebuild it better! We have the technology! The $600 d!!"
08-10-2014, 09:07 AM
#40
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Don't know what the purpose of this thread is. No matter what anyone says OP has some counter to it so his mind is already made up.
Did you guys miss the yakno title? Its boldes on every.single.post.
did you miss the part where he already has random spare parts to put together a Frankensteiny engine? Or that the motor hes got now is sad and will sooner or hopefully later catastrophically fail?
hes just trying to decide which way to go with it, if he should stroke the engine lol, bump the compression a little bit, or what. I didnt know that he already had spare parts so I was telling to him jump into a better platform.
this isn't about "how do I soup up my d" its more like "I broke my D guys! I wanna rebuild it better! We have the technology! The $600 d!!"
did you miss the part where he already has random spare parts to put together a Frankensteiny engine? Or that the motor hes got now is sad and will sooner or hopefully later catastrophically fail?
hes just trying to decide which way to go with it, if he should stroke the engine lol, bump the compression a little bit, or what. I didnt know that he already had spare parts so I was telling to him jump into a better platform.
this isn't about "how do I soup up my d" its more like "I broke my D guys! I wanna rebuild it better! We have the technology! The $600 d!!"
Exactly. I'm looking to build it better than just a stock OEM rebuild. I can afford to soup it up a little bit. With cheap OE and aftermarket parts.
Thats not what he's asking.
Yes it is, it was in my original post, but it got edited by the moderator.
I've come to the conclusion that it will be one of these or the other.
I have a spare Y7 block and Y8 head laying around.
I want to keep it N/A and add a little kick to the engine.
Should I stroke the motor out with a D17 or keep my P2E pistons, or say F it and drop in the PM6's ?
The compression ratings between the 3 would be
D17Y8 - 9.93
P2E - 9.96
PM6 - 10.34
What would my torque and horsepower be like compared to stroker? I have a feeling that the torque will be higher from the stroker, but will the hp be higher too? By how much?
Is spending several hundred more dollars justifiable to stroke it ? Would the gains be worth it? Or save that money and spend it elsewhere.
Long term my goal is only a fpr, tune, port & polish, I/H/E, Delta 272 or 260 cam, adj cam gear, Y8 springs, mill job.
Thank You.
I have a spare Y7 block and Y8 head laying around.
I want to keep it N/A and add a little kick to the engine.
Should I stroke the motor out with a D17 or keep my P2E pistons, or say F it and drop in the PM6's ?
The compression ratings between the 3 would be
D17Y8 - 9.93
P2E - 9.96
PM6 - 10.34
What would my torque and horsepower be like compared to stroker? I have a feeling that the torque will be higher from the stroker, but will the hp be higher too? By how much?
Is spending several hundred more dollars justifiable to stroke it ? Would the gains be worth it? Or save that money and spend it elsewhere.
Long term my goal is only a fpr, tune, port & polish, I/H/E, Delta 272 or 260 cam, adj cam gear, Y8 springs, mill job.
Thank You.
08-10-2014, 09:17 AM
#42
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
he doesn't know if a stroker kit is worth it, or which pistons to use I think is that other options.
I think he should stroke it and install oversized intake valves..
anyway, I wanted to thank the moderators of this section that are willing to help noobs out. And I want to condemn the "regulars" who thoroughly enjoy being jerks. Maybe thats the only way to survive? Idk, IV been here for a lil while, and I can honestly see how that makes sense. But Ron's been here for a 'minute' and he's still kindhearted! We should all look up to men of his character.
I think he should stroke it and install oversized intake valves..
anyway, I wanted to thank the moderators of this section that are willing to help noobs out. And I want to condemn the "regulars" who thoroughly enjoy being jerks. Maybe thats the only way to survive? Idk, IV been here for a lil while, and I can honestly see how that makes sense. But Ron's been here for a 'minute' and he's still kindhearted! We should all look up to men of his character.
Last edited by shotoutacc0rd; 08-10-2014 at 09:33 AM.
08-10-2014, 09:18 AM
#43
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Lol, no I don't that's why I'm asking.
Those are the only 3 pistons that will work.
Maybe somebody will know how much hp/trq a stroker will gain over a stock Y7, or if throwing in PM6 pistons is a waste of time and money considering the Y7 are .4 lower in compression which can be made up with a mill job.
I can't find the info myself, maybe somebody that's been around here a lot longer than me can chime in with some knowledge and not beat me down or tell me to spend thousands of dollars swapping or boosting an engine that I already have with a spun bearing.
Those are the only 3 pistons that will work.
Maybe somebody will know how much hp/trq a stroker will gain over a stock Y7, or if throwing in PM6 pistons is a waste of time and money considering the Y7 are .4 lower in compression which can be made up with a mill job.
I can't find the info myself, maybe somebody that's been around here a lot longer than me can chime in with some knowledge and not beat me down or tell me to spend thousands of dollars swapping or boosting an engine that I already have with a spun bearing.
08-10-2014, 09:25 AM
#44
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Lol, no I don't that's why I'm asking.
Those are the only 3 pistons that will work.
Maybe somebody will know how much hp/trq a stroker will gain over a stock Y7, or if throwing in PM6 pistons is a waste of time and money considering the Y7 are .4 lower in compression which can be made up with a mill job.
Those are the only 3 pistons that will work.
Maybe somebody will know how much hp/trq a stroker will gain over a stock Y7, or if throwing in PM6 pistons is a waste of time and money considering the Y7 are .4 lower in compression which can be made up with a mill job.
08-10-2014, 11:03 AM
#45
The Grumpiest
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oak Ridge, TN, USA
Posts: 28,333
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
15 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
No one can tell anyone else if something is "worth it". Yeah, option number 2 is worth it bro. This whole thread is just bullshit just like the last one was bullshit. Whip out a pen and paper and weigh the pros and cons of each build then then make a decision. It's just that simple. But in the end any one you pick will be slower than **** because even IF you get 150 out of it you'l soon realize that all that effort could have been put into a more powerful swap or the turbo kit that you scared to **** of.
Go find some dynos and GTFO with this nonsense.
Go find some dynos and GTFO with this nonsense.
08-10-2014, 11:27 AM
#46
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
So basically, OP came to us expecting someone to stroke his ego and tell him how awesome he is, and instead, the words of reason from the best members here told him he was wrong...and now he's getting defensive.
OP, first you wanted "OEM reliability", then when I gave you OEM prices, you got shitty. Plastigauge is the lazy way to spec an engine for new bearings. Do it right once, or do it again later - your choice.
The reason your post was edited by a mod is because you obviously didn't even try to read the rules. You came here with some stupid opinion poll (against the rules), wanted us to tell you which would be faster (bench racing, against the rules), and on top of that, wanted us to tell you if it would be "worth it" (value question, belongs in the sticky, against the rules). I'm surprised a mod only edited your post, and didn't lock it, but given your inability to listen to reason, you're probably due for a lock in short order.
Listen to what those more knowledgeable than you are saying. If you aren't willing to listen, then get lost.
OP, first you wanted "OEM reliability", then when I gave you OEM prices, you got shitty. Plastigauge is the lazy way to spec an engine for new bearings. Do it right once, or do it again later - your choice.
The reason your post was edited by a mod is because you obviously didn't even try to read the rules. You came here with some stupid opinion poll (against the rules), wanted us to tell you which would be faster (bench racing, against the rules), and on top of that, wanted us to tell you if it would be "worth it" (value question, belongs in the sticky, against the rules). I'm surprised a mod only edited your post, and didn't lock it, but given your inability to listen to reason, you're probably due for a lock in short order.
Listen to what those more knowledgeable than you are saying. If you aren't willing to listen, then get lost.
08-10-2014, 11:32 AM
#47
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
Mark do you really think its smart to throw a turbo kit on an engine that has tired seals, worn out rings/hone, maybe on the verge of bad valve guides, etc etc?
turbocharging a car should include, atleast in my opinion and I know many others agree, freshening up the engine. Idk, would I go buy a used turbo engine and install it? Yeah probably. would I N.A-T an engine that I dont know anything about? Nope.
turbocharging a car should include, atleast in my opinion and I know many others agree, freshening up the engine. Idk, would I go buy a used turbo engine and install it? Yeah probably. would I N.A-T an engine that I dont know anything about? Nope.
08-10-2014, 12:51 PM
#48
The Grumpiest
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oak Ridge, TN, USA
Posts: 28,333
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
15 Posts
Re: D17Y8 Vs P2E Or PM6 Build
He's building the ******* engine from the ground up aint he? Then where do the tired seals and worn rings come into play? Again, you have continually demonstrated that you don't know **** and seek only to spread misinformation for your own amusement. If there is anything that that will get me running away from HT faster is that people like you are allowed to continue to pollute it.