MKCSRet

I finally got some pictures uploaded into a photo album. A little training was required.

MKCSRet

Here are a couple pics.

snobordboy

When I prime a new build, I just disconnect the injectors, and crank the car in 30 sec intervals until the oil pressure light goes out. Make sure to wait a few minutes between each crank, so you don't overheat the starter.

MKCSRet

Thank you. Since the oil pump will be new, ever any concern with the dry pump drawing a suction, or should the pump be primed prior to precluding the rest of the oil system ?

Sparksman

Just as snobordboy said, just pull the injector plugs so you're not squirting fuel. I also take the spark plugs completely so it just spins the engine freely and not fight the compression. This helps not over heat the starter. Just do about 4-5 times in short 30 second or so bursts. After a a few minutes just connect everything and start the engine up.

MKCSRet

Wow it has been a long time. This project ended up being quite a bit more involved than I thought it would be. The assistance and advice I received from you guys proved incredibly invaluable. Between work, normal everyday family life, forgetting to change out the timing belt Drive Gear on the crankshaft, breaking the plastic lower timing belt cover, awaiting funding request approvals, and good ole shipping delays; I FINALLY GOT IT RUNNING ! . Though I won't get to take it out for a test run unroll after I renew the broken passenger side Suspension Knucke and Stabilizer Link.

New Problem: It starts smooth, idles smooth, sounds smooth, exhaust smells smooth, but misses and jumps at 5,700 rpm. Timing at idle is 15° btdc, Timing at 2,000 rpm is 33° btdc. Timing at 5,000 rpm is 40° btdc. Should I be looking somewhere else ?

holmesnmanny

You must swap the front balance shaft gear over too. Did you do that ? It might be silently throwing a code for fluctuation sensor.

MKCSRet

No, I changed the Lube Oil Pump, Timing Belt, Timing Belt Drive Gear (w/ TDC wings), Balance Shaft Belt, Balance Shaft Drive Gear (w/ CPS Tabs), Water Pump, Lower Timing Gear Cover (to fit new Oil Pump), Distributor (w/ external Coil), Wiring Harness (For USDM Application), VTEC Solenoid (w/ Pressure Sensor), I'm sure there are more. But no I did not change the Front Balance Shaft Sprocket. Why would that cause an issue ?

I also did not change out the injectors. Will this cause an issue ? Are they not same fit / form / function ?

MKCSRet

Would the "Rev-Limiter" exhibit this effect ?

holmesnmanny

I believe the fluctuation sensor reads off the balance shaft gear but I'm not 100 percent. Just look at the two sensors at the crank. You should be able to see which reads off what.

I suppose there's a chance your cat could be partially clogged.

MKCSRet

OK, it sounds as if we are speaking of different parts. Yes, I changed the balance shaft drive gear on the crank Shaft, but not the balance shaft sprocket mounted on the balance shaft. Yes, the crank position sensor and top dead center sensor read off the balance shaft drive gear on the crank.

holmesnmanny

Ok, sounds good. I would disconnect the cat and see if the issue goes away. You can also remove the oxygen sensor after disconnecting the connector. It will throw a code but that won't be a big deal cause you are just trying to see if the cat is clogged.

MKCSRet

Oh Good OPTEST idea. I will try that. Might be next weekend, but will try that.

MKCSRet

Need more Help Now before I pull this back out again this weekend. The tranny will not engage park or any gear. Fluid level full. Clicking noise when manually shifted to "Park" position.

Hyperluminesent

Good info. I'm about a week away from swapping an H23a vtec into a '96 lude that previously had a JDM H22a swap. Saved to my bookmarks.

MKCSRet

Yea, I FINALY got her back on the road and operational. First couple "Shake-Down Cruises" revealed various codes. Checked everything, cleared the codes and ran again. Different codes each time. Just ran it 55 miles to work and No Codes yet. The only code that kept repeating was P1738 TCM A/T Controller. I swapped out the controller and recieved the same code. The only suspicious symptom is an excessive delay btwn 1st and 2nd. Which ends up tripping the 2nd Clutch Pressure Switch.

As always, your input will be Most Graciously received and Greatly Appreciated.

kennethwashere

just read this thread over, very nice work on this swap!

MKCSRet

Thank You. I am still looking for a stock air intake tube to replace my split one. Seems to be more difficult to find than I expected. The car does run nicely, with the exception of the 2nd clutch pressure switch. Once that gets replaced I'm optimistically hoping for some trouble-free smooth operation.

MKCSRet

Renewed the "Second CLutch Pressure Sensor" and now the tranny shifts like new. AMAZING. Will drive around for a while and see if any New Codes populate.

snobordboy

Glad you got it working right.

I have no clue what to do with auto trans lol, I will rebuild my engine without a problem, but my truck I have the dealer service the tranny haha.