warrenbee

Hey guys, thanks to everyone for taking the time to read this. First time poster, long time reader. I've been through all the other threads but none have quite fit my issue exactly. Well its happened, I've caught the bogging flu. I have a bone stock 99 prelude, h22a4. The problem seems to have started about a month ago after being a fool and revving to redline while in neutral. Nothing too uncommon for an H22, at least I thought so. The throttle response is still quite good and low end torque doesn't seem to be effected. But once you get past about 4000 rpm and give it a decent amount of gas it seems to bog down and chugs. It will only rev to about 5500ish rpm and nothing more. Thusly vtec is not kicking in. It was especially bad one cold morning, lost power extremely, bucked violently and barely made it up a few hills. After this I did some homework. Saw there was a crack in my ignition coil, figured that was the culprit so replaced that, runs a lot better since doing that but the problem continues. Topped up fluids, replaced plugs, distributor cap, fuel pump, cleaned the vtec solenoid screen and egr valve. All new parts are oem Honda and done by the book. After all this, It hasn't bucked violently but there still is bogging and a noticable loss of power while its under load and wont rev past 5500 rpm. For some reason it will get to high rpm when I'm in neutral and also if I turn it off and start it again I can usually get one good pull (will rev past 5500 but vtec still wont engage even though it sounds like it does) but after one or two pulls it reverts back to sluggish and powerless. Also sometimes at start up wit will idle very low, probably only 3 or 400 rpm, give it a tap of gas and its back to normal levels.

Knock Sensor? MAP Sensor? could it even be an ECU issue?

I'm very sorry if this issue is monotonous and over done but I'm absolutely desperate and miss driving her. Thanks to all for any help. I will keep everyone posted with any progress and ultimately the solution, hopefully sooner than later.

warrenbee

I should also mention fuel economy has suffered too.

holmesnmanny

Check mechanical timing. Perform compression test.

yungmulacrx

Do you have a flex pipe on your car? And how do the spark plugs look?

warrenbee

Plugs are less than a month old and are spaced correctly. Even the old plugs looked in good shape. Im assuming I do have a flex pipe but never gave it too much thought so ill take a peek. If so, ill check for leaks or holes on monday.

warrenbee

Whats the best way to go about checking the timing because I've also thought about that. As for compression... im a little low on my 4th cylinder but its been that way for many years. Think I could have bent a valve? Maybe just need an adjustment?

holmesnmanny

set the cams to tdc..which is basically make sure the arrows point straight up...the notches at 3 and 9 o'clock of either cam will be lined up with the timing cover/head

the lower timing cover will have a notch that should have the crank pulley line up with the 0 notch on the crank pulley

if those three things don't line up then it jumped a tooth

you will have very low compression atleast 40 percent less if there's an issue with a particular cylinder...check again just to be sure let us know what you get

yungmulacrx

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/need-help-loss-power-above-5500-h22-3044345/
Heres what happened to me.. I did notice the intake side of the motor got alot louder after 5k rpms..

warrenbee

Alright guys. Update. Timing is spot on and replaced my cat. My brand new fuel pump has burnt up after only about 3 months. So what is causing the fuel pump to work so hard. Fuel filter? Ignitor issue?

holmesnmanny

Compression test.

warrenbee

Compression is a tad low on the 4th cylinder. Has been like that for many years. So im thinking its not compression.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

A clogged cat would cause this. But you said you replaced it.

Try to build up revs slowly in 1st on a flat surface. Will it rev to redline?

Your VTEC solenoid screen may also be clogged.

I have had both scenarios happen. The solenoid screen issue didn't involve bogging, though. The clogged cat made it boggy and would limit at 5500RPM unless I slowly brought revs up with minimal load.

What brand fuel pump did you burn out in 3 months? Was it some cheapo replacement? If so....that's normal.

VashTheStampede

Dumping fuel is a symptom that ties in with the rest of it. On an old B16A I had, the knock sensor went bad (rotted), and caused a limp mode with no VTEC and extreme hesitation. Also, have you hooked a code reader to it to actually, you know, let the engine tell you what's wrong?

Anything to do with knock and fuel system will keep VTEC off, will screw with fuel, and put you into 'Limp Mode'.

warrenbee

Vtec solonoid is clean as a whistle. And that sounds pretty accurate to my situation. I can bring the rpms past 5500 very gingerly and under minimal load. And it has improved quite alot since replacing the cat. Fuel pump was a Bosch. Ran me about $175.00.

There is no CEL. Hooked it up to a code reader twice just to be sure and nothing.

holmesnmanny

More times than none when people with the same symptoms you have popup here the issue is the solenoid is bad. It never throws a code.

warrenbee

So a vaulty vtec solonoid would still cause the bogging and loss of power even when not in the vtec range?

snobordboy

Sounds sort of odd, there could be quite a few things that could be wrong.

I assume no CEL lights?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks in the intake system?

Are the IAB's opening and closing properly?

Did you do a new fuel filter?

I am leaning to checking for vacuum leaks, maybe check that ranges on the TPS and MAP, and new fuel filter, and run a can of BG 44K to clean out the injectors well.

As I think about it more, I am really wondering on the IAB plate can you easily move it open and closed when the engine is off? It should be open when off, and turn around 90 degrees to close like it would when vacuum is applied at low rpm.

holmesnmanny

Yes it tends to do it above 4000

Not saying for sure this is the answer but if it was me i would be sourcing another solenoid

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Remove the cat. Go for a drive. Floor it and see if the car bogs/cuts power. Yes...extremely loud, but it tells you if something at or beyond the cat is clogged and it takes 10 mins to remove a cat, making it a quick test.

Fuel pump: look into a walbro or denso or one from Honda. Bosch doesn't seem to make anything that works for hondas (except oil filters). I'm thinking you could likely have bought a walbro for $175. The burned out pump is not likely related....but I guess it could be.

How is your air filter BTW? Oil level?

warrenbee

Thanks Holmes. Ill look into the solonoid. As for the other inquiries. Cat and O2 sensors are not the issue as it was replaced a few months ago. Ill take a peek at the iab when I get home. No CELs. Fuel filter is my next job. I can get relatively easy access to the top. Any tips on how to get at the bottom? Oil levels are fine. Air filter is fine. Regarding the fuel pump. It was a Bosch. I broke down and payed for a diagnosis from honda. Honda replaced with a new fuel pump also a Bosch ( same pump I bought myself) because honda pumps for the lude are discontinued.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The reason to remove the cat completely and try the car put with an open header is to make sure there are no clogs in the cat or AFTER the cat.

KeepUp

Definitely check the fuel filter. Im having a similar problem but different symptoms with the fuel filter. If its clogged, it would lower the fuel volume especially under load, causing a reduction in power. When was the last time its been changed? I'm the type who hates throwing parts at the problem but I hope that fixes it seeing all else you have done.

To get to the bottom bolt on the filter, it's difficult to get to from the top so you would have to get under the car and use extensions and I believe a 14mm crow foot to get to it. Let us know how it goes.

adamthc4thgen

I had same issue with a 5th gen ended being a bent oil pan ... oil level sensor or some sh*t... but in guessing you didnt hit a ditch recently lol