AudioFunk

Okay, I will do that again. Last time I did a compression test was about 2 months ago and the numbers came out solid in the high 170's

AudioFunk

Alright, So I was coming home from work and stopped to get some food and as I was driving It OH, or maybe not.. So I took out my phone real quick and it's kinda blurry but it's doing the same symptoms even if the thermo is in the car or not, temp is at normal for a while, then overheats nearly to H, then back down, eventually to Normal, then stays there for a few min and repeat. Btw I sped up cause if my car was dying and the car in front was going all slow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHT6...ature=youtu.be It OH again when I got home, then shut her off.

MKCSRet

Are you still getting air in the system ? If not, I'm less likely to lean towards faulty Head Gasket or Cracked Head. But the sudden cyclic increase/decrease in temperature does lean more towards coolant flow. If the system was gooped-up, it would not readily return to normal operating temperature.

holmesnmanny

Cant see ****.

AudioFunk

I bled the air, once the fans came on no more bubbles came up. I thought coolant flow was the problem since it looked like my radiator was clogged then once I replaced it nothing changed, looks like PO put some sort of a stop leak in there, do you think I should try some of that radiator flush?

AudioFunk

AudioFunk

This may sound dumb, but where exactly is that ground located?

AudioFunk

I did a compression test, same numbers as before, all cylinders have the exact same numbers.

AudioFunk

Ji, So I did the block test, the liquid did not turn yellow, it looked like it had a tiny hint of green but it didn't get yellow yellow, but it did change a bit maybe that's enough to cause my OH? . I even sucked air from the exhaust and it turned yellow. I did the test 3 times and the last time I was following directions from the manual and it said to have someone accelerate the engine to create high combustion pressures, same result. It said gasoline engines turn yellow, and diesel turns green. I think it is leaking a tiny bit but the manual said if it changes color a but but not fully yellow it doesn't need attention right away, so Idk what to do next, maybe swap out the sender? The engine was at full temp when the test was done and driven before that with the AC on, so I think it was a good time to test.

holmesnmanny

Is it really too much to ask to post a video clearly showing the gauge is overheating or am i really asking for too much here ?

AudioFunk

I already did.

AudioFunk

nemesis25

Just take a piece of wire and run it to the cylinder head, wrap the wire around one of the valve cover bolts with the nut removed and tighten down the nut. Take the other end and wrap it around one of the headlamp bolts after loosening it and tighten the bolt. Hope this helps.

nemesis25

You have a bad ground from what I can tell.

AudioFunk

The valve cover ground kinda teared a bit from being tightened down too much. It's still intact but it's teared. And I painted the cover so the ground was touching paint idk if that can cause this.

holmesnmanny

The gauge uses resistance to ground. As the car warms up the ohms go down and as it does the gauge goes up. If the ground is bad the ohms would go up which would cause the gauge to go down so it's unlikely that a bad ground is the issue.

AudioFunk

Well, It seems my problem is fixed. The I replaced the sending unit, after I replaced it and bled the air I took it for a drive and it ran hot, a bar above normal 2 times, the next day I checked the water level and it dropped, I did put the thermostat back in, so I re bled the air with my spill free funnel and added water as needed, some air bubbles did come up and when the fans came on I turned off the car and the water level was a bit below half way on the funnel, I still noticed some air bubbles coming out after the car was off I let it sit for like 3-5 min then I put the cap back on and so far so good (:. No more fluctuating temp and runs good (:

AudioFunk

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioFunk

Well, It seems my problem is fixed. The I replaced the sending unit, after I replaced it and bled the air I took it for a drive and it ran hot, a bar above normal 2 times, the next day I checked the water level and it dropped, I did put the thermostat back in, so I re bled the air with my spill free funnel and added water as needed, some air bubbles did come up and when the fans came on I turned off the car and the water level was a bit below half way on the funnel, I still noticed some air bubbles coming out after the car was off I let it sit for like 3-5 min then I put the cap back on and so far so good (:. No more fluctuating temp and runs good (:

Soon after I posted this the car overheated again. I left it alone for a few months until it started to get hot quickly again. I went for a drive with a friend to test the overheating, prior to this a block test was done, the liquid developed a alight hint of green but never went yellow. I did it again and it stayed blue. Anyways, engine was sitting for about 9 hours before we took it for a ride, 5 min later the temp started to climb again, went back down for a while, then climbed. It did it at idle or when cruising, no matter the speed it still made it to the H mark. I decided to pull the head off and do a headgasket. I got the head resurfaced and put in eBay Gaskets, I know. I'm gonna replace this engine with a H23A3 possibly late this year from HMO, so I don't really want to waste any more money on this engine, It seems this engine was poorly maintained in the past by the PO. Anyways, I torqued the head down according to the manual, and started her up. bled the air, and took it for a test drive. The exhaust cam is off a tooth or so and I'm gonna have to get down there and fix it soon, but when I took it for a test drive about 2 miles away the temperature went down, stayed there for a few seconds then back to normal temp. The whole cooling system is less than a year old, radiator, waterpump, and OEM thermostat. I must of drove it a good while and temp never went past the half way mark. Today I got to work around 6:30 AM, it was kinda cool, maybe like in the 60's, I has the heater on, not all the way but below half way, when I go to put it in park the temp goes down again, then back up after a few seconds. I also replaced the sending unit as you can see from my last post lol. The temp never went down like that before the head gasket job. The connection at the sending unit is nice and tight, now I don't know if it's because my cooling system is practically new, or what lol. Btw the headgasket seemed new, when I bought it 2 years ago the guy said it had a "New Head". It seemed like they slapped on a headgasket without resurfacing the head, or they overheated and that cheap headgasket failed. Pistons were really really dirty and had some hard carbon on it, spent 30 min on each piston trying to clean them. Here's a pic, btw what do you guys think about the temp going down like that? TY.

b18a1crxsi

u should get a infrared temp gun that way u can point it all around the cooling system and pin point what is hot and what is not. i have put 2 gates water pumps in my 01 civic and one leaked within 2 weeks the next one lasted through the winter, and now it need another one. i will never buy gates water pumps again. i use the oem aisin pump #1522911a. I purchased the oem honda pump for my prelude. i did not want to do it again. i think it was around $75 from grappone Honda in manch vegas. worth the extra 25 buck than to do it again. DONT BUY GATES water pumps. the belts and tentioners i trust but will never buy one again. gates makes all the new water pumps for Napa. so dont buy napa new w.p.

I bet its the new water pump leaking and letting air inside the system. when air pockets reach the temp sensor it will sky rocket to the H. the steam inside the thermostat housing is making the temp sensor hot. doesn't mean the whole motor is overheating. thats y the temp gun comes in handy. u can point it to the front side of the thermostat and on the back side and can tell when the thermostat opens.

when it starts to over heat stop the car shut it off and go open the cap with a big rag over it and open it slow letting the air and cooling run out. when u get it off without getting coolant in your face. see if the coolant is low. if it is full in the radiator, go start the car with cap off and see if the system burbs any air pockets. if the coolant stays there, reach grab the throttle cable and manually rev the engine to around 1500 rpm and hold it there for 30 sec to see if air pockets come from the radiator. if u see big air bubbles come out, its getting air inside the coolant somehow. u can bleed the system the way i said then check a day later and see if more air comes out. if more air comes out there is a leak somewhere.

i drove my 00 prelude around for 3-4 months thinking the head gasket was cooked, because the water pump would only leak with engine revved past 2500rpm. so i chased this prob forever until one day i had my wife rev it up to 4000rpm and i looked underneath the car and what do u know it was dripping every sec from the bottom of the timing belt cover.

i know its a royal pain in the *** to change a water pump u just put in 2 weeks ago, but there is definitely a leak if the car didn't overheat before u did the timing belt/water pump.

when u took out the thermostat how did u get the housing to seal back together? did u pinch the gasket in there? if there's no thermostat in the housing it could be leaking or sucking air from there. u have to use a Honda style gasket on the thermostat. if u buy one from Napa they offer a gasket that does not fit Hondas. its just a o-ring seal that go's around the thermostat.
the oem one has 2 tab the clock the thermostat so u can only put it in the right way. hope this helps.

AudioFunk

Thanks for your reply, but it seemed my problem was a leaking head gasket under load like someone previously pointed out. No more overheating (: