ryguy1220

Alright so ill try and make this question as easy as I can without skipping any details. I have a 96 accord with an h22a swap in it. It was spitting nd sputtering. Ive tried multiple things nothing seemed to work to stop it. Anyway, I noticed some of the wires were hacked (mainly the ones that go from the bottom of the ignition coil to the distributor). I decided to take the electrical tape off that was holding them together and heat shrink them the right way. I did the wires 1 by 1 so I didnt get any mixed up. So I only redid the wires from the coil to the distributor and now my car wont start! It just cranks and cranks. I was getting spark but the arc was orange so I figured weak spark change the coil. Nope didnt help. Checked fuel pump. Its priming and its pumping. Also there is pressure getting to the fuel rail. I cleaned out the fuel rail the IAC still nothing. I replaced the relay. Nothing! Im running out of ideas! Also i sprayed some ether through the intake and the car started fine. So either I have incredibly bad luck and all 4 injectors went at the same time or is it possible I could've messed something up when I redid the wiring!? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I was supposed to sell the car today and now I cant bc it wont start!

94 accord typeR

ignition coil wires were a hack job and spraying fuel directly in the intake started the car. im guessing H22 has a internal coil.

sounds like a new Distributor should solve the problem. try and get the wiring too and toss the hack job

ryguy1220

So you think the distributor might not be supplying the power to the injectors? Bc I took the spark plugs out after trying to start it and they weren't wet or anything. Didnt even smell like gas. Just smelled like the ether.

94 accord typeR

sure based on what u said the dizzy sounds like the problem. the injectors would pump the ether into the cylinder and u have fuel pressure. on cold starts the dizzy isn't working right

ryguy1220

Well its worth a shot. I have no other ideas. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it. Ill comment when I swap it out nd let ya kno the outcome.

accordturb96

just to help with your post, the injectors dont pump the air from the intake into the cylinder. They sit on the intake runners just before the intake side of the head. When fuel is commanded by the ecu they open and close. Other then that air is free flowing past them into the cylinders. Even some form of spark should give you enough to start the car but like accord said, fix the dizzy hack job and go from there.

Did the car start and run before this? what is the story on it running etc

tim73

Get a noid light, and check to see if the injectors are getting a pulse. However, I would highly suspect the wiring you were messing with though. I would get a wiring diagram...and check wach wire...one by one. From where it starts...to where it finally is terminated in the destributor. If resistance is over 5 ohms...thats a problem.

ryguy1220

Yes the car ran and started before I tightened up the wiring. But I only did one by one so I couldnt have crossed anything. However, I did forget to disconnect the battery, which is why I swapped out the relay, so could I have like popped something else? I cant find a specific fuse just for the injectors so what controls them? The ecu? Also so any of you guys know anyone that might sell harnesses already made for this swap thts not gonna charge me an arm amd a leg?

accordturb96

what do you mean tightened up? So it worked before you put the wire looms together and taped things tightly together?

ryguy1220

The wires were all hacked together in multiple places (like for one wire it had 3 splices in it) with butt connectors and electrical tape. I took away unnecessary (or what I felt to be unnecessary) wires that looked like they were only there to make the wires longer. I put heat shrink tubes on them and made them look a little nicer and made the connections a little tighter. The car ran and started fine before this but the car would sputter sometimes pretty bad to the point where if i was at a dead stop when it decided to sputter i couldnt even move until it cleared up. Also i noticed the tach needle would go crazy (but not effect the motor) right before it started sputtering so i thought maybe the wires to the dizzy were loose. Which is why i messed qith the wiring in the first place.

accordturb96

okay so the problem was bad before just not like it is now. Well you know where to find your problems then. I suspect your car and systems are working fine, or mostly, yet the wiring is not correct. I know on my car the engine wiring harness is simple and mostly easy to access. Maybe you should consider removing it and repairing it thoroughly? Or find one from a junk yard car. Just sounds messy.

Otis B. Firefly

I'd start by getting a new wiring harness for the for ignition coil that was all hacked up. I know you said you went one wire at a time but there still could be a broken wire that you would be able to see without probing into wires insulation or useing a Fox and Hound testing unit. Best bet just replace it and see if that resolves your problem. Then go from there if it still cranks with no start then it could be main fuel relay or the fuel pump. Hope this helps!

ryguy1220

Alright guys here's the update. I redid the wiring again soldered nd heat shrunk it. Still only cranks. Will not fire! However, I did notice that if I turn the key to the run position nd step on the gas the check engine light will come on and stay on until I let my foot off the gas then it will go back out. The automotive field is sooo frustrating!! Ahhhhh!!!!

holmesnmanny

Check the 15a ecu fuse in the engine bay fuse box

accordturb96

haha just step away for a bit and come back to it man. Someones hack job not your fault. You will figure it out

ryguy1220

ok I redid just about every wire in the car. It wants to start soo bad. It will start but real shitty idle for about .5 second nd shut off. The cel comes on when I put my foot on the gas (when the cars not running) nd goes back off when I take my foot off the gas pedal. So I tried to flash it for a code and when I jumped the 2 wires the check engine light is on and stays on. The one time I did it it came up code 8 which I think is tdc sensor but now its back to only being steady when the jumper is hooked up and only when I press the gas when the jumper is not! Any ideas?

accordturb96

well I keep seeing that code issue on here. Its the TDC code as I have seen and usually has to do with the fact that you are using the wrong dizzy on the swap you're doing. Internal coil vs external coil and so on.

ryguy1220

Well guys here's an update. I got the car running however, it runs like complete ****. Its drivable but when its idling it sounds like there is a miss and its running super rich. It is now throwing a code 9 which is the #1 cylinder position. Before it was throwing 8 (tdc). But now just 9. Ive been looking on here but im not having any luck trying to find a 96 accord ex/ h22a hybrid wiring diagram. Does anyone have one so I can check maybe I mixed up the tdc nd cyp wires when I was redoing them?

94 accord typeR

just a thought... my car ran like **** until i got a new fuel pump. hard starts, rough idle, lots of engine vibration, A/C compressor surging and tach surging. now it runs MUCH BETTER! i was seriously considering new motor mounts but now i dont think they are necessary. if ur car had a bad pump before the swap then just imagine the hair pulling after LOL. no u or the engines fault but it is going to make u wonder what wrong...

tim73

Does it drive bad or just idle bad? IACV, have you made sure it is not clogged up and working properly? Also, make sure the coolant is full and purged of air? I know before I cleaned mine out, my car would idle low and thumpy.

ryguy1220

Well I made a little more progress today. Found that the #1 cylinder isn't firing. Its not the injector bc I swapped it with #2 nd the problem still persisted. Not the plug nor the plug wire. So tomorrow im gonna try testing the wires that power the injector to see wht I come up with. If its getting power I guess ill be ripping it apart to put a new valve in:/ ill keep yas updated!

holmesnmanny

What kind of condition is the distributor cap in ? Check for power at the black/yellow wire at that injector with the ignition on. Compression test ?

tim73

Get a noid light, check the injector signal wire out. Also, some of the higher end diagnostic tools(If you can get your hands on one) can turn individual cylinders off(Injectors) My solus pro does it. Thats sometimes helpful. Also, check the dis cap...sometimes the pin underneath will carbon over and wont have good continuity. To check this, use a VOM meter. If

ryguy1220

I know I havent updated lately but in case you guys are wondering...im still stuck. Ive done everything I can think of and I still have a miss in cylinder 1. I did a compression test and im getting 180, 190, 190, 190. I know im getting fuel bc I took the fuel rail off and physically watched all 4 injectors spray. I know im getting spark bc ive gotten zapped when I stuck a screwdriver in there. Its not the spark plugs bc I put new ones in. I even got a whole new engine harness switched from an external coil dizzy to an internal coil dizzy and still the same problem. I have no clue what the problem could be!!! Any ideas?

holmesnmanny

Put a timing gun on each spark plug wires one by one and watch that it lights up for each one. If so, check for spark at each spark plug. It should be blue or white.