phaphon

Nice and why not just go with koni yellow and ground controls? Or are they not too good for drag racing?

Tippyman

Make sure the control arm holes point directly at your traction bar mount tabs. You don't know if the Innovative heim is in the same place as say a ETD heim.

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

Would have to run 100psi out of those id 1000's with the dual bosch pumps and that's a lot of pressure. Plus now I don't have to worry about running out of injector.

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

Progress was better suiting to me I guess I can say.

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

Yea the bolts wouldn't even thread without the mounts being the correct angle

Tippyman

I made a custom rod for my K-Tuned (ETD) traction bar utilizing the k tuned rod end and the factory LCA "bolt hole" piece. I had to wallow the holes out a little to get the angle right.

Tippyman

Like this actually:

90 JDM EF8

iTrader: (1)

Looks good nice work. I don't have the ktuned traction bar though. Mine is full-race and the innovative radius arms worked perfect with it. I just had to make the bracket for the driver side simply because I needed to get more clearance for the ati race damper. The only thing ktuned I have is the rear stabilizer bars that I will put on the car at a later time.

Tippyman

I plannned on using the Ktuned rear bar too. I figured it couldn't hurt straightline performance. Might bind up proper suspension operation during turning, I don't know.

speeddave

nice work on the arms, I shot you a pm. need to do this to my pig as well.

Any new updates?

littlewagon

I really like your build and was one that I would reference frequently when researching parts and fitment for my own turbo EF build. I'm in for more updates!!

Also had a question regarding your Innovative radius rods on the Full Race traction bar. I have the same FR traction bar but with the ATI Street Damper. I was also concerned with damper pulley contact with the radius rod since I had this issue occur when I had the OEM crank pulley on there before.

The previous solution was to have the OEM pulley machined so that only the alternator belt portion remained. I was ok with that since it was a lower horsepower NA build. Now with this turbo set up I stepped up to the ATI Damper and wanted to try the same modification you did to be able to use the Innovative radius rods, however I noticed that the Innovative radius rod is approximately 2" shorter than the FR radius rod when measured from the most forward mounting hole on the control arm side to the mounting hole on the traction bar side. After looking at several online pics of other EF's running the Innovative bar I can see that the traction bar is positioned further back than the FR bar. So I guess my question is, how did you get around this? Which rod end did you use to make up the difference in radius rod lengths? I have all the same parts that you have sitting here in front of me and can't see how you made it all work. Any help or guidance is appreciated, thanks.