paulzy

iTrader: (1)

That's what I did last time and they told me the rear has to be heavy contrary to what they have told their past customers. Weird huh?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

This is true especially for heavily sponsored cars like Speedfactory. I personally go into Locash's shop and look at his car on and off the lift. He has no problem in telling you exactly what he runs. I know exactly what shocks and springs he runs on his outlaw car however I can't afford the $6-8k setup he has. He is not running Strange coils and springs but he does agree they are a good product that can get the job done. To compete with the big boys be prepared to spend at least 100k LOL.

13173

Why not try some cheap, possibly even free coilover sleeves from a friend or ebay? Use those in conjunction with springs from whatever. As long as it fits then give it a go and maybe a decent set of shocks/struts. Maybe a set of bushings if your car has all stock 20 year old bushings in it.

There are dudes on this board that have thrown together junk cars for fun and went bottom 10's and even in the 9's with garbage parts. Then you got guys that spend a boat load on some suspension and well it doesn't work and you get outran by said junk cars.

If you got money to blow and want to dump that on your Honda, then go for it, thats cool. If you don't have money to blow and still want to work on your car and make it faster then look at ways to do it for cheap. Thats the fun of it all in my opinion. Figuring out how to make the junk go fast.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

10s with garbage parts... Dang. Probably require way more experience than I have to offer.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

More power to the guys running 9's on ebay coils and junk parts. I am looking for longevity and saftey, I have watched guys at the track with ebay coils hopping down the track like they are on hydros.

Either way, whatever works for them works for them. I am grateful to the people who keep pushing the envelope and creating better parts even if it only reduces my times by a tenth.

13173

I have never persoanlly seen anyone that has any sense at all hopping down the track with ebay coilovers. I have seen people who think they are mechanics put some stuff together and it hardly ever makes it down the track and when it does it isn't that fast.

If your Honda makes a legit 450whp and you can't break into the 10's with a car that you are really trying to do so with then you need to reevaluate the situation ebay parts or not.

I have seen cars run well on a set of Goldline lowering springs and stock bushings. I have also seen them run well with Ground Control sleeves and springs. I know where there is a car now that just went mid-high 6's in the 1/8 at 110mph on ebay coilovers, es bushings, and an innovative trac bar. Car made a little over 500whp on pump gas.

narfdanarf

Most likely the pictures of the car were taken before it was completed and significantly before the article was written because of the timelines for print. There is no doubt in my mind that if you called them, they would tell you what they run. You can believe them or not, that is your choice but Steve Conley's phone call to them seemed to work out when the car went 8.80 first hit letting out at the 900ft mark.

nonvtecallmotor

I went 8.99 on Omni power street version with one blown out rear strut. My car always went low 1.5's 60', 4.0x-4.2x 330's.

I now have expensive suspension that went the best of a 1.45 60' but the same 4.0x 330'..

Power management is far more important then suspension IMO

EmminoDaGreat

Stock shocks w/ some sleeve and springs 1.72 60 ft
Omni streets 1.64
24.5x13x8
2460 lbs

YZFR6

I agree, power management is more important. Spending 1K+ on each corner is not realistic unless you really know what your doing to make the correct changes for it to be effective.

MARC P

See I think getting the car to mechanically manage the power first is much more important than using limiters/TC etc.
But what do I know I race all motor Honda.

Marc P

nonvtecallmotor

I don't have TC/Limiters....

CDecker0218

I like seeing people go fast with junk parts but as you said, I am also looking for longevity and saftety.

This has been a helpfull thread. I have been looking into drag suspension and this gave me even more info!

E Town DSM

Give Tom over at NRG Tech a call he can help guide you in the right direction with shock\spring combinations.

h2.4

high speed and low speed compression and rebound. otherwise you go cheap and have to run those stiff *** springs, and car rides like a brick down the strip. If no high and low speed, then get custom valving and log some data.

13173

Just asking because I don't know, but who cares how the car rides going down the track as long as it is fast? Comfort is thrown out of the window when you install race seats, roll cages, big harnesses, removes a/c and p/s so you can fit all your turbo crap or lighten the car up, etc.

What do the best hooking SFWD cars do in the 60' ? 1.4x's?

nonvtecallmotor

The fastest cars are in the 1.4's. If you go mid 1.4 to low 1.5's the car works fairly well. Guys are doing that from $150 a corner to ~$1k a corner.

h2.4

I'm not saying to use seperate high and low speed damping so you ride like a caddillac and drag race too. Less dynamic changes in the car as it goes down through run, when people are talking about tenths in the 60', you don't think that will help the rest of the way down the strip? I'm not saying 10k coils don't work, but they're not optimum. Just like stock bushings and heims, synchronic and dogboxes, ds 5.9's and napa axles........

tepid1

My car is very comfortable going down the track. More than my daily driver. lol

13173

You're right Rick, there is a big gap in price between some of the cars.

H.Veras

It's not only ride quality, it is about safety as well. Have you ever lost the rear of a car at high speed? It could get nasty in a fraction of a second.

13173

Nope, never have, and don't plan on it. I do not run super stiff springs in the rear and I don't have skinnies on the back of my car either, at least not right now. I don't like the car enough to spend anymore money on it and for a street car it runs just fine with the junk I have on it.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

What do you consider super stiff?

Also, I've never lost control of the rear end of a car either. I've had all four wheels lock up on me before, but that had nothing to do with the suspension.

13173

Super stiff would be when your spring rates for the rear are so stiff that when you hit little dips and what not in the street/track that the car becomes unstable in the rear. Thats just my opinion. I had a car that I experimented with this on about 10 years ago. I pulled out of a parking lot and into the street once with it and the little dip there made the car bounce the rear wheels off the ground. Not cool. The rear felt like it had hydraulics on it. I quickly changed that.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Reviving this thread-

Curious how you strange guys settled on ride height/spring preload for your shocks?

I've got 12" hypercoils in the rears and 10" up front. My dilemma is ride height.....when I take the slop out of the spring, the ride height is higher than what I want in the rear causing the front to drop lower than I want.

I can adjust the lower perch and drop the rear but then there is some space between the top of the strut and the spring.

Thanks for the advice.