JZiggy

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

A couple weeks ago my wife's car got stuck in park. 2000 CR-V EX, 165k. We figured out how to use the shift interlock override and have been relying on that whenever it acts up.

I changed the shift interlock solenoid up on top of the steering column. It seemed to help, but here is the situation now.

When you first start the car, it will shift out of park no problem. The cable seems to be working totally fine, no binding or anything weird. The next time you shift into park it will not come back out of park. Turn off the ignition and restart, and then it will shift fine.

Brake lights and horn work. Here's what I'm thinking of trying next:

- Change the brake light switch anyway. I've heard it can still operate properly yet cause shift interlock issues.
- Check TPS adjustment or try to replace the TPS (is this riveted in...?)

Any other ideas?

Thanks.

tony_2018

It needs to receive a ground signal from the ecu, ecu needs to detect the brake so it also needs a signal from the brake sensor. Check those two things.

JZiggy

iTrader: (2)

So I had a brainwave and tried something out... after starting the car or just turning on the ignition the shifter will come out of park. You can even shift in and out no problem. BUT if I hit the gas, then it will no longer shift out of park! If I turn the ignition back off then it will work again.

I'm now 99% certain this comes down to TPS.

Looks like mine is riveted on, but seems easy enough to cut off or cut slots and remove.

If I wanted to replace the TPS, where would I get one? Honda doesn't offer it, though the part # appears to be 16400-P06-A11

There's an "Isumo" one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/16400-P0A-A11-16400P06A11-Throttle-Position-Sensor-TPS-Fits-ACURA-HONDA-/181267237378?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2000%7CModel%3ACR-V&hash=item2a345e8a02&vxp=mtr
Or it looks like Blox sells one for a few bucks more. What's the general consensus?

tech8

The shift lock system doesn’t receive a ground signal from the PCM, it needs power from the PCM to go through a WHT/RED wire to the shift lock circuit.

The way the shift lock circuit works is:
When you push the brake pedal, battery voltage goes from brake pedal position switch goes through the GRN/WHT wire to the powertrain control module (PCM). If, at the same time, you do not push the accelerator pedal, a low voltage signal is sent through the RED/BLK wire to the PCM. The PCM then applies voltage through the WHT/RED wire to the shift lock circuit in the interlock control unit. If the shift lever is in the PARK position, the shift lock circuit provides ground to the shift lock solenoid. The solenoid is then energized, and the shift lever can be moved from the PARK position.

Either the brake pedal position switch or faulty TPS can prevent the shift lock solenoid from energizing.

• Usually the common cause if you can't shift out of Park, the issue is with the brake pedal position switch (aka light switch). Check that the pedal stopper pad is okay. You can also try adjusting the switch. If voltage doesn’t go from the brake pedal position switch Grn/Wht wire to the PCM, you won’t be able to shift out of Park.

• For the TPS, you can test to see what voltage is at the Red/Blk wire that goes to the PCM. The voltage needs to be at less than .5 volts (this essentially tells the PCM the accelerator pedal is not depressed and the throttle is closed). If it is at a higher voltage, the PCM thinks the accelerator is depressed and the throttle is open and prevents the shift lock solenoid from energizing (you won’t be able to shift out of Park).

tech8

On the TPS, those should be shear bolts. Those can also be removed with a center punch and hammer. You would use the center punch to make an indentation on the head of the shear bolt, then while holding the punch at an angle, use a hammer and the punch to drive the shear bolt out counter clockwise.

JZiggy

iTrader: (2)

Fixed!!!

TPS adjustment is what was needed. The voltage at closed throttle was 0.50V. I adjusted to 0.48V closed and 4.50V open and adjusted throttle cable slack as per:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2947986&styleid=18

And that did the trick! Idle is back down to 750 from 1000. Shift interlock issue appears to be gone.

The linked writeup above was great. Many thanks to the author.

I ended up just slotting and replacing my TPS bolts and keeping the original TPS.

JZiggy

iTrader: (2)

Update:

A few weeks after this episode, the CRV started to act up again. It would idle high and would not shift out of first gear until 15mph or higher. Soon after it threw a P1121 code (TPS). Then it started getting stuck in park again.

I cleared the code, and later on it threw a P1106 code (PCM).

I checked the voltage on the TPS, and all was OK.

So I ordered a Blox TPS for $30 on Amazon, slapped it in and adjusted it, and now everything it back to normal. The car shifts better than it ever has as well.

I also ended up very slightly loosening the throttle cable as it seemed to sometimes not hit 0.48 exactly (like 0.49) because the throttle plate could not snap closed. This may have helped too, not sure.

tony_2018

You might've damaged it while making the adjustments. Who knows, at least you got it squared away.

JZiggy

iTrader: (2)

Certainly a possibility. I actually broke the old one open and noticed some "wear spots" on the resistor strip at the idle location. Should've taken a picture. I guess being a mechanical device it can wear out like anything else.