speedjunkie_g35

I have read the rule book and it appears I can't do anything to my bumper cover to get more air flow going to my radiator. I would like some info on what can be done legally in SMF.

Currently have a turbo b18c1 94 civic hatch with a dual core aluminum radiator oem t stat,with shroud and a spal 1451cfm fan.

Xian

Is it running warm when you're idling or on course?

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Dual core Civic rad, or Integra?

maohonda

I don't have a b-series but I do have a high compression turbo civic coupe and live in FL so I know where your coming from. I have a d15y7 mini me. It's about 10.25 to 1 compression on 8 psi from and eBay 50 trim 63 a/r exhaust. Things I have did to prepare the car for the heat I know it would see are as follows. I installed a Integra 2 row full aluminum radiator with 2 12" slim fans from the local parts store wire directly to the battery with a 50 amp relay on the OEM switch so I can come on with the key in the off position if nessarry. I also have all silacone hoses with smooth inside stainless clamps. I also wrapped the down pipe past the oil pan underneath the car. After all that I still could not keep the car cool. The fans would almost constantly run and the car would almost stay at 200 degrees F.

One day my friend was getting rid of his damaged hood so I took it and cut a hole in it just above the turbo manifold and it solved my problem. What I gathered is that the engine bay temps were above the radiator temp so the radiator could not release the heat in to the air. The hole allow the heat from the manifold to escape dropping my engine bay temps almost 60 degrees F allowing the radiator to work more efficiently. The best thing about the hole in the hood was the cost because it was free and solve my problem. Now as long as I'm moving the temps stay around 185 and when the fans do come in traffic on they don't run long.

When I'm at the autocross course I make a run come back to the pits and open the hood and place a paper clip in the fan switch plug to jump the relay and make the fans come on
For a short while before my next run. You could also mist water on the radiator while doing this to increase its effect.

If you want to look at my build check out "Continuation of Test the limits of d15b7!!!" On d-series.org

speedjunkie_g35

Since boosting it, I have been unable to go to the track. If I run with a bumper on in the middle of the day in 90° weather, ect' reach 200-210, iat's 120-140. This is cruising around town, staying out of boost. With bumper off, in same weather ect's are 180-190. I just added a 1451 cfm from a 9xx cfm fan today. Hoping to see improvement but I think my biggest issue is getting air out of the hood. I have been running hood spacers since I did my gsr swap due to hood rubbing valve cover. I have wrapped my manifold and added a turbo blanket.

The radiator is a civic half radiator with a dual core. I have a bottle to mist the intercooler and radiator.

powerneedy

Like Dirty said integra or civic rad? Heat wrap and turbo blanket will help control heat tremendously. Sealing the radiator and intercooler to the front bumper will help with directing all the air threw the setup.

What intercooler are you running? Actually list your setup and a picture if you have it and we can point out all the little things that will help.

I battled this on my RR turbo integra a few years ago.


EDIT you posted as I was writing.

The hood spacers are hurting you they are making the air in the bay go stagnant

the half radiator is also not a great idea with out it all boxed off air chooses the least resistant.

speedjunkie_g35

I was going to cut a slot above the manifold to full the hot air out. Just not sure on the legality in my class. It seems like I can buy a aftermarket hood with vents but I can not add vents to my own. Got a pic of your hood.

speedjunkie_g35

I have the area where the AC confessor was filled in with a piece of sheet metal to get more air to the rad. The intercooler is just some junk that was lying around. Plan on getting a vibrant in next week or too. Go-autoworks ram horn, Garrett super 60 Go-autoworks 3" dp.




I cut slots in bumper support to direct more air to the radiator.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

The civic rad isn't helping you.
The header is always a tricky beast to get a larger rad installed.
Maybe one of those Rywire rads might help?
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/rywire...ator-p-15.html
It will have to be a custom install though.

Afterhours Automotive has hood vents that can help cure your issue and I hear its super easy to install.
http://www.afterhoursautomotive.com/
Contact Brian Kono there, and see what he has to offer.

scottdh20

I don't really have over heating issues on my d16y7w/ z6 head on low boost (16psi for track duties) haven't tried high boost as it wouldn't hook anyway. wrap everything. don't heatwrap your charge piping that will only keep heat in and is a bad idea, instead use refect-a-gold tape on the charge piping in the bay and back side of the endtank by the radiator. also grab a turbo blanket

vented hoods do wonders on turbo'd cars

also you may want to consider the 85 Volkswagen Scirocco radiator, commonly used as a tuck radiator and rebranded by "tuck" companies with a triple the pricetag added. it has a much larger surface area and may fit infront of your turbo

again I just did a hpde and kept my car over 5k rpms for 10-13min before pulling it in (I was cooking my oil) with no over heating issues

Xian

I'd see how it does with the fans since you just added them... should definitely help keep everything from heat soaking when you're below ~25mph.

+1 on the hood spacers being bad. The trailing edge of the hood where it meets the windshield is a high pressure zone. Raising that side of the hood actually reduces the car's ability to flow air through and out of the engine bay. With the bumper off the car you may be getting enough turbulence to reduce the pressure in the cowl area? In turn, that may be enough to keep your temps down. Dunno.

If the fans aren't enough to keep the engine cool, I'd look at further ducting from the bumper cover to the radiator. Basically you want to force all the air through the radiator.

SMF allows non-stock hoods... that means you can go aftermarket, DIY, or modify the stock piece. Cut and vent to your heart's content...

10cjennings

iTrader: (1)

Didn't read the thread so this was probably suggested, but:

1. Block off other side of Rad support so air is forced into radiator vs going the "easy way" around it.

2. Cut holes in hood, you can do that in SMF.

speedjunkie_g35

Currently with the new fan in 90 degrees ECT's maintain 187 cruising at 45 then go up to 197 on hwy at 70. IATs maintain 110 as long as there is no stop and go. Once I park it and let it idle IAT's go through the roof to 130-140(Or stop and go traffic). ECT's go down to 183, 177 if I pop the hood. I want to move the IAT sensor to the charge pipe soon. I think I may remove the hood spacers and see what temps do before I cut anything..

Condenser side is blocked off already


Here is what I am thinking. Cut along the black lines and fold down the front with the thoughts that the air traveling over the hood will create a vacuum and help pull the air under the hood out.

Black R

What are your oil temps like?

Is your radiator fan shrouded?

speedjunkie_g35

Don't have a temp gauge yet. Yes I do have a shroud.

Driven

Define warm?
like, 220' water temp?
oil temp at 280'?

I see you mentioned 200'-210'... that's not bad.

speedjunkie_g35

Temps were 220+ in the beginning of this quest to get temps down. I think the new fan has temps under control. Coolant has been staying under 190 for the most part. It crept up to 210 today on a 45 minute trip on hwy to my tuner with rpm's a constant 4600 in low 90° weather. As soon as I got off interstate, temps were down to 190. I may eventually add some vents but atm I think I will be good. Thank you everyone for you advice and help!

F22Master

Did you remove the hood spacers?

speedjunkie_g35

Yes