Blower motor and A/C not working
10-14-2011, 08:44 AM
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Blower motor and A/C not working
I've done a lot of research, but could not find anyone that got this problem resolved.
BTW, I have a 2003 Honda Accord.
My A/C and blower motor suddenly just stopped working all together. The blower does not come on at any fan speed setting, which I read if it were the blower motor resistor the fan should at least come on at high.
The A/C compressor and fan under the hood doesn't come on either.
If I shut off the car then start it, the compressor and the A/C fan under the hood come on for about a second then shut off. The blower inside doesn't come on at all. I tried putting my hand under the glove box and spinning the blower, but nothing. When I first turn on the car I can feel the blower fan to just barely start to turn but then stop.
I checked all the fuses and tried swapping around the relays. (Not sure how to test a relay)
If the blower motor was bad would it prevent the A/C compressor and fan under the hood to stop working as well?
Or can it be the blower resistor if it doesn't work at full speed either?
Any help would be really appreciated.
BTW, I have a 2003 Honda Accord.
My A/C and blower motor suddenly just stopped working all together. The blower does not come on at any fan speed setting, which I read if it were the blower motor resistor the fan should at least come on at high.
The A/C compressor and fan under the hood doesn't come on either.
If I shut off the car then start it, the compressor and the A/C fan under the hood come on for about a second then shut off. The blower inside doesn't come on at all. I tried putting my hand under the glove box and spinning the blower, but nothing. When I first turn on the car I can feel the blower fan to just barely start to turn but then stop.
I checked all the fuses and tried swapping around the relays. (Not sure how to test a relay)
If the blower motor was bad would it prevent the A/C compressor and fan under the hood to stop working as well?
Or can it be the blower resistor if it doesn't work at full speed either?
Any help would be really appreciated.
10-14-2011, 02:09 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I just fixed this problem on my 2003 Honda Accord coupe. My blower motor would not work on any speeds AC or Heat. I first removed the blower motor and jumped it to the battery with a couple of wires to see if it would work and it did. I then replaced the motor and reluctantly decided (because of not being able to return electrical parts) to replace the blower motor resistor. Luckily this fixed the problem and everything works well now. Search both of these on the web. It is real easy to remove and replace both of these units.
Good luck.
Good luck.
10-18-2011, 05:30 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I'm going to try to keep everyone updated on what happens with this issue since I didn't have much luck elsewhere. People tend to only ask the question then never report back on whether they got it fixed or how they got it fixed. To all those people...You Suck!!
First Update:
I took the car to a local shop that supposedly specializes in foreign cars with Honda being one of their specialties. I’m not going to knock the shop because they were very nice and didn’t charge me anything to look at the car.
I dropped it off for 2 hours and when I came back they said it was the A/C blower resistor, $135 to fix it. Not really a horribly bad price considering after looking up the cost of the part, the local dealer wants $85, Parts dot com or ebay is about $48-50 plus shipping. I was kind of suspecting this was the issue but I'm not completely convinced since what I’ve been reading, you’re supposed to still have your high blower settings even with a bad resistor but this is a good place to start.
The Honda part number for the blower resistor is: 79330-S5A-942 or it crosses with 79330-SDA-A01. This is for a 2003 Honda Accord but this same part fits several years. They also call it a Blower transistor or A/C transistor / resistor, don’t get confused these are all the same part and there is only one.
I did a little more research online and found a nice little write up about the blower resistor here: http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=52805
So…Being pretty handy and having a pretty good general understanding of electronics I decided to try to rebuild my resistor like the guy in the link above explains so very well. Kuddos to that guy BTW! People like him help us little people be able to keep the heat on or in my case, since I live in Florida, the A/C on. HA...Not in the Honda apparently! Ok enough of the jokes!
Unfortunately the original Mosfet made by Toshiba, part number 2SK2313 is no longer available. The replacement part this guy talks about, NTE2920 is about $15 but isn’t sold at Digikey. So I did a little research on comparisons of some other replacement Mosfet Transistors and found 2 that are very close, IRFP054NPBF which is only $2.90 from Digikey and IRFP064PBF which is $6.75. There are probably a lot more out there but I couldn’t possibly research them all so I only picked a few.
The cheaper one, RFP054NPBF had kind of a low EAS rating (Single-pulse Avalanche energy) I’m definitely not an expert in this area nor will I pretend to be, but what I can tell by doing some research on EAS is that this has to do with an initial energy surge or spike. Since this thing has already gone out once I did not want to take the chance with the cheaper one with only a rating of 360Mj (I’m assuming Mj stands for Mili joules). The IRFP064PBF for $6.75 is rated at 1000. The original 2SK2313 is rated at 1054 and the NTE2920 that the guy on the site suggests is rated at 640. So the IRFP064PBF seems like a very good replacement.
I also ordered a new Thermal Cutoff, part number EYP-2BN109 since it was only $0.74. So all the parts that I ordered totaled to $7.49 from Digikey, plus shipping .
I just ordered them yesterday so I have yet to try it to see if one, the replacement part I found will work and two, if this even fixes the damn A/C problem with the car.
That site also tells you how to test the resistor to see if it is bad or not. I didn’t get a chance to do this since this is actually my girl friend’s car. It was easier for me just to pull out the resistor, fix it then put it back in and try it. If it still doesn’t work after I replace the Mosfet and thermal cutoff then I will try the test in the web site. I suggest anyone having this problem to do the test first. Another good test is to jump 12 volts directly to the Blower motor to make sure the blower works.
I will post another update when I get it all back together and I promise not to leave everyone hanging like all those other damn posts I read.
I will do another post shortly, whether it works or not.
Till then…
First Update:
I took the car to a local shop that supposedly specializes in foreign cars with Honda being one of their specialties. I’m not going to knock the shop because they were very nice and didn’t charge me anything to look at the car.
I dropped it off for 2 hours and when I came back they said it was the A/C blower resistor, $135 to fix it. Not really a horribly bad price considering after looking up the cost of the part, the local dealer wants $85, Parts dot com or ebay is about $48-50 plus shipping. I was kind of suspecting this was the issue but I'm not completely convinced since what I’ve been reading, you’re supposed to still have your high blower settings even with a bad resistor but this is a good place to start.
The Honda part number for the blower resistor is: 79330-S5A-942 or it crosses with 79330-SDA-A01. This is for a 2003 Honda Accord but this same part fits several years. They also call it a Blower transistor or A/C transistor / resistor, don’t get confused these are all the same part and there is only one.
I did a little more research online and found a nice little write up about the blower resistor here: http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=52805
So…Being pretty handy and having a pretty good general understanding of electronics I decided to try to rebuild my resistor like the guy in the link above explains so very well. Kuddos to that guy BTW! People like him help us little people be able to keep the heat on or in my case, since I live in Florida, the A/C on. HA...Not in the Honda apparently! Ok enough of the jokes!
Unfortunately the original Mosfet made by Toshiba, part number 2SK2313 is no longer available. The replacement part this guy talks about, NTE2920 is about $15 but isn’t sold at Digikey. So I did a little research on comparisons of some other replacement Mosfet Transistors and found 2 that are very close, IRFP054NPBF which is only $2.90 from Digikey and IRFP064PBF which is $6.75. There are probably a lot more out there but I couldn’t possibly research them all so I only picked a few.
The cheaper one, RFP054NPBF had kind of a low EAS rating (Single-pulse Avalanche energy) I’m definitely not an expert in this area nor will I pretend to be, but what I can tell by doing some research on EAS is that this has to do with an initial energy surge or spike. Since this thing has already gone out once I did not want to take the chance with the cheaper one with only a rating of 360Mj (I’m assuming Mj stands for Mili joules). The IRFP064PBF for $6.75 is rated at 1000. The original 2SK2313 is rated at 1054 and the NTE2920 that the guy on the site suggests is rated at 640. So the IRFP064PBF seems like a very good replacement.
I also ordered a new Thermal Cutoff, part number EYP-2BN109 since it was only $0.74. So all the parts that I ordered totaled to $7.49 from Digikey, plus shipping .
I just ordered them yesterday so I have yet to try it to see if one, the replacement part I found will work and two, if this even fixes the damn A/C problem with the car.
That site also tells you how to test the resistor to see if it is bad or not. I didn’t get a chance to do this since this is actually my girl friend’s car. It was easier for me just to pull out the resistor, fix it then put it back in and try it. If it still doesn’t work after I replace the Mosfet and thermal cutoff then I will try the test in the web site. I suggest anyone having this problem to do the test first. Another good test is to jump 12 volts directly to the Blower motor to make sure the blower works.
I will post another update when I get it all back together and I promise not to leave everyone hanging like all those other damn posts I read.
I will do another post shortly, whether it works or not.
Till then…
10-18-2011, 12:05 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I'm going to try to keep everyone updated on what happens with this issue since I didn't have much luck elsewhere. People tend to only ask the question then never report back on whether they got it fixed or how they got it fixed. To all those people...You Suck!!
First Update:
I took the car to a local shop that supposedly specializes in foreign cars with Honda being one of their specialties. I’m not going to knock the shop because they were very nice and didn’t charge me anything to look at the car.
I dropped it off for 2 hours and when I came back they said it was the A/C blower resistor, $135 to fix it. Not really a horribly bad price considering after looking up the cost of the part, the local dealer wants $85, Parts dot com or ebay is about $48-50 plus shipping. I was kind of suspecting this was the issue but I'm not completely convinced since what I’ve been reading, you’re supposed to still have your high blower settings even with a bad resistor but this is a good place to start.
The Honda part number for the blower resistor is: 79330-S5A-942 or it crosses with 79330-SDA-A01. This is for a 2003 Honda Accord but this same part fits several years. They also call it a Blower transistor or A/C transistor / resistor, don’t get confused these are all the same part and there is only one.
I did a little more research online and found a nice little write up about the blower resistor here: http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=52805
So…Being pretty handy and having a pretty good general understanding of electronics I decided to try to rebuild my resistor like the guy in the link above explains so very well. Kuddos to that guy BTW! People like him help us little people be able to keep the heat on or in my case, since I live in Florida, the A/C on. HA...Not in the Honda apparently! Ok enough of the jokes!
Unfortunately the original Mosfet made by Toshiba, part number 2SK2313 is no longer available. The replacement part this guy talks about, NTE2920 is about $15 but isn’t sold at Digikey. So I did a little research on comparisons of some other replacement Mosfet Transistors and found 2 that are very close, IRFP054NPBF which is only $2.90 from Digikey and IRFP064PBF which is $6.75. There are probably a lot more out there but I couldn’t possibly research them all so I only picked a few.
The cheaper one, RFP054NPBF had kind of a low EAS rating (Single-pulse Avalanche energy) I’m definitely not an expert in this area nor will I pretend to be, but what I can tell by doing some research on EAS is that this has to do with an initial energy surge or spike. Since this thing has already gone out once I did not want to take the chance with the cheaper one with only a rating of 360Mj (I’m assuming Mj stands for Mili joules). The IRFP064PBF for $6.75 is rated at 1000. The original 2SK2313 is rated at 1054 and the NTE2920 that the guy on the site suggests is rated at 640. So the IRFP064PBF seems like a very good replacement.
I also ordered a new Thermal Cutoff, part number EYP-2BN109 since it was only $0.74. So all the parts that I ordered totaled to $7.49 from Digikey, plus shipping .
I just ordered them yesterday so I have yet to try it to see if one, the replacement part I found will work and two, if this even fixes the damn A/C problem with the car.
That site also tells you how to test the resistor to see if it is bad or not. I didn’t get a chance to do this since this is actually my girl friend’s car. It was easier for me just to pull out the resistor, fix it then put it back in and try it. If it still doesn’t work after I replace the Mosfet and thermal cutoff then I will try the test in the web site. I suggest anyone having this problem to do the test first. Another good test is to jump 12 volts directly to the Blower motor to make sure the blower works.
I will post another update when I get it all back together and I promise not to leave everyone hanging like all those other damn posts I read.
I will do another post shortly, whether it works or not.
Till then…
First Update:
I took the car to a local shop that supposedly specializes in foreign cars with Honda being one of their specialties. I’m not going to knock the shop because they were very nice and didn’t charge me anything to look at the car.
I dropped it off for 2 hours and when I came back they said it was the A/C blower resistor, $135 to fix it. Not really a horribly bad price considering after looking up the cost of the part, the local dealer wants $85, Parts dot com or ebay is about $48-50 plus shipping. I was kind of suspecting this was the issue but I'm not completely convinced since what I’ve been reading, you’re supposed to still have your high blower settings even with a bad resistor but this is a good place to start.
The Honda part number for the blower resistor is: 79330-S5A-942 or it crosses with 79330-SDA-A01. This is for a 2003 Honda Accord but this same part fits several years. They also call it a Blower transistor or A/C transistor / resistor, don’t get confused these are all the same part and there is only one.
I did a little more research online and found a nice little write up about the blower resistor here: http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=52805
So…Being pretty handy and having a pretty good general understanding of electronics I decided to try to rebuild my resistor like the guy in the link above explains so very well. Kuddos to that guy BTW! People like him help us little people be able to keep the heat on or in my case, since I live in Florida, the A/C on. HA...Not in the Honda apparently! Ok enough of the jokes!
Unfortunately the original Mosfet made by Toshiba, part number 2SK2313 is no longer available. The replacement part this guy talks about, NTE2920 is about $15 but isn’t sold at Digikey. So I did a little research on comparisons of some other replacement Mosfet Transistors and found 2 that are very close, IRFP054NPBF which is only $2.90 from Digikey and IRFP064PBF which is $6.75. There are probably a lot more out there but I couldn’t possibly research them all so I only picked a few.
The cheaper one, RFP054NPBF had kind of a low EAS rating (Single-pulse Avalanche energy) I’m definitely not an expert in this area nor will I pretend to be, but what I can tell by doing some research on EAS is that this has to do with an initial energy surge or spike. Since this thing has already gone out once I did not want to take the chance with the cheaper one with only a rating of 360Mj (I’m assuming Mj stands for Mili joules). The IRFP064PBF for $6.75 is rated at 1000. The original 2SK2313 is rated at 1054 and the NTE2920 that the guy on the site suggests is rated at 640. So the IRFP064PBF seems like a very good replacement.
I also ordered a new Thermal Cutoff, part number EYP-2BN109 since it was only $0.74. So all the parts that I ordered totaled to $7.49 from Digikey, plus shipping .
I just ordered them yesterday so I have yet to try it to see if one, the replacement part I found will work and two, if this even fixes the damn A/C problem with the car.
That site also tells you how to test the resistor to see if it is bad or not. I didn’t get a chance to do this since this is actually my girl friend’s car. It was easier for me just to pull out the resistor, fix it then put it back in and try it. If it still doesn’t work after I replace the Mosfet and thermal cutoff then I will try the test in the web site. I suggest anyone having this problem to do the test first. Another good test is to jump 12 volts directly to the Blower motor to make sure the blower works.
I will post another update when I get it all back together and I promise not to leave everyone hanging like all those other damn posts I read.
I will do another post shortly, whether it works or not.
Till then…
10-24-2011, 08:38 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
As promised I am posting the results.
The problem was entirely the blower resistor.
“Justinsbg” is right, if you don't have any soldering skills you can buy a rebuilt blower motor resistor off ebay for about $25 or so.
If you can do some very basic soldering you can fix your old blower resistor for $7.49 in parts from Digikey.
All you need is a IRFP064PBF-ND and P10920-ND. (You can just cut and paste these part number in the Digikey website)
I also highly recommend some silicone heat sink compound.
Carefully take the Honda blower resistor apart. You need to pry the plastic tabs on the sides open a bit then carefully pry it apart, be very careful not to break the tabs off.
When you have the plastic cover off you will see the top of a circuit board. See picture.
You will now have to de-solder the 5 points I marked with red arrows in order to remove the circuit board. If you are unable to de-solder them, you can just cut the leads underneath the circuit then de-solder them after you get the board off. (This is much easier than trying to de-solder the transistor while it’s still attached.)
Once you get it apart clean up the solder holes on the board to take the new parts.
Unscrew the screw on the old transistor and thermal cutoff. Install the new components in the same fashion. Bend the leads like the old components, put some heat sink compound on the bottom (metal side) of the new transistor as well as all over the thermal cutoff but try not to get it on the leads. Screw these down with the little metal holder bracket but be careful not to go too tight, this is only aluminum and strips very easy. Carefully fit the circuit board back over the new component’s and fit the leads through the board. Solder the leads back to the board, cut the excess leads sticking up on the thermal cut, re-assemble the plastic cover and you’re done!
I highly recommend replacing your cabin filter after you put the rebuilt resistor back in. It is most likely not getting the airflow it should which is probably why it burned out.
Hope this helps anyone having a Blower motor resistor / transistor problem.
The problem was entirely the blower resistor.
“Justinsbg” is right, if you don't have any soldering skills you can buy a rebuilt blower motor resistor off ebay for about $25 or so.
If you can do some very basic soldering you can fix your old blower resistor for $7.49 in parts from Digikey.
All you need is a IRFP064PBF-ND and P10920-ND. (You can just cut and paste these part number in the Digikey website)
I also highly recommend some silicone heat sink compound.
Carefully take the Honda blower resistor apart. You need to pry the plastic tabs on the sides open a bit then carefully pry it apart, be very careful not to break the tabs off.
When you have the plastic cover off you will see the top of a circuit board. See picture.
You will now have to de-solder the 5 points I marked with red arrows in order to remove the circuit board. If you are unable to de-solder them, you can just cut the leads underneath the circuit then de-solder them after you get the board off. (This is much easier than trying to de-solder the transistor while it’s still attached.)
Once you get it apart clean up the solder holes on the board to take the new parts.
Unscrew the screw on the old transistor and thermal cutoff. Install the new components in the same fashion. Bend the leads like the old components, put some heat sink compound on the bottom (metal side) of the new transistor as well as all over the thermal cutoff but try not to get it on the leads. Screw these down with the little metal holder bracket but be careful not to go too tight, this is only aluminum and strips very easy. Carefully fit the circuit board back over the new component’s and fit the leads through the board. Solder the leads back to the board, cut the excess leads sticking up on the thermal cut, re-assemble the plastic cover and you’re done!
I highly recommend replacing your cabin filter after you put the rebuilt resistor back in. It is most likely not getting the airflow it should which is probably why it burned out.
Hope this helps anyone having a Blower motor resistor / transistor problem.
10-30-2011, 01:08 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
Howdy!
My first post! Have had many Hondas, this is the first time the excellent shop manual and some friends did not fix my problem. I'm blowing the fuse to the blower motor in my 2003 Accord. Swapped relays with the rear de-frogger, no change! Bench tested motor, it works but had a lot of brush dust coming out of it, so I changed it to be safe. Still blowing fuse so we took out fuse and put in a breaker termporary(40A fuses getting expensive!). Checked continuity of grounds also.
Worked through the transistor troubleshoot for the 4-door, looks good with 1.5K ohms across terminals 3 and 4. What else could it be? Something weird we saw, the motor jumps when turning the key switch to on and then again when you start the engine the fan jumps a little? Bad ignition switch?? We ran the self diagnostic and it gave us 6 blips, a fan circuit problem. Anyone know of a diagnostic for the climate control unit? Anyone seen or heard of this before? How about where to buy climate control unit, ebay?
Thanks all!
jcrossen
My first post! Have had many Hondas, this is the first time the excellent shop manual and some friends did not fix my problem. I'm blowing the fuse to the blower motor in my 2003 Accord. Swapped relays with the rear de-frogger, no change! Bench tested motor, it works but had a lot of brush dust coming out of it, so I changed it to be safe. Still blowing fuse so we took out fuse and put in a breaker termporary(40A fuses getting expensive!). Checked continuity of grounds also.
Worked through the transistor troubleshoot for the 4-door, looks good with 1.5K ohms across terminals 3 and 4. What else could it be? Something weird we saw, the motor jumps when turning the key switch to on and then again when you start the engine the fan jumps a little? Bad ignition switch?? We ran the self diagnostic and it gave us 6 blips, a fan circuit problem. Anyone know of a diagnostic for the climate control unit? Anyone seen or heard of this before? How about where to buy climate control unit, ebay?
Thanks all!
jcrossen
10-30-2012, 05:11 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
jcrossen, I am having the same or a similar problem. Did you check the ohms across terminals 1 and 2. I bought a new transistor and it was 11-12 ohms but with the broken transistors they are 0. I have now gone through two transistors and am wondering if the motor is drawing too much power or if there is a short in the system somewhere. Any help out there.
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11-02-2012, 08:03 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
jcrossen, I am having the same or a similar problem. Did you check the ohms across terminals 1 and 2. I bought a new transistor and it was 11-12 ohms but with the broken transistors they are 0. I have now gone through two transistors and am wondering if the motor is drawing too much power or if there is a short in the system somewhere. Any help out there.
10-02-2013, 06:58 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
First post...looking forward to more
Had the same problem with my 2000 Accord a couple of months ago, but only the fan would work on high with no a/c, heat worked fine. Since my son drives the car for school/work, and in between my job, it took me a while to investigate.
Fast forward to today...my 04 Odyssey just started doing the same thing! Now, since this is my wife's ride, I had to work on it pretty fast. I checked the threads on this site and decided to buy a refurbished blower resister (thx justinsbg!) to see if this does the trick. This was the cheapest option for me.
I'll keep you updated as soon as I install the part. My fingers are crossed.
Btw...the location of the resister (04 Ody) is the front right (passenger) below the glove box. No need to take any other part off to access it. I'll post pic later.
My 2000 Accord resister is the same part and same location (V6 model), which was a very pleasant surprise.
***UPDATE*** Posted my reply in '2004 Odyssey Fan A/C not Working-Blower Resister?' back in Dec 8 13.
Ok, sorry for the long delay on getting back with a solution...
Received my resister part, installed it and it works just fine.
My symptoms for this situation included...fan only works on high, a/c does not work and heat works. If you have these 3, then it is probably the resister. If you have only one of them, then it may be something else.
Also, this is the original resister, so after 9 years, I guess this is something that can go out 'naturally'.
I tried my best to get photo, but couldn't get a good one. The part is trianglular with three hex nuts/screws. Again, the part location is in the forward right side of the passenger feet area.
***UPDATE***
Parts still working fine on both accord and odyssey. Heading into summer months....keeping fingers crossed!!!!
Had the same problem with my 2000 Accord a couple of months ago, but only the fan would work on high with no a/c, heat worked fine. Since my son drives the car for school/work, and in between my job, it took me a while to investigate.
Fast forward to today...my 04 Odyssey just started doing the same thing! Now, since this is my wife's ride, I had to work on it pretty fast. I checked the threads on this site and decided to buy a refurbished blower resister (thx justinsbg!) to see if this does the trick. This was the cheapest option for me.
I'll keep you updated as soon as I install the part. My fingers are crossed.
Btw...the location of the resister (04 Ody) is the front right (passenger) below the glove box. No need to take any other part off to access it. I'll post pic later.
My 2000 Accord resister is the same part and same location (V6 model), which was a very pleasant surprise.
***UPDATE*** Posted my reply in '2004 Odyssey Fan A/C not Working-Blower Resister?' back in Dec 8 13.
Ok, sorry for the long delay on getting back with a solution...
Received my resister part, installed it and it works just fine.
My symptoms for this situation included...fan only works on high, a/c does not work and heat works. If you have these 3, then it is probably the resister. If you have only one of them, then it may be something else.
Also, this is the original resister, so after 9 years, I guess this is something that can go out 'naturally'.
I tried my best to get photo, but couldn't get a good one. The part is trianglular with three hex nuts/screws. Again, the part location is in the forward right side of the passenger feet area.
***UPDATE***
Parts still working fine on both accord and odyssey. Heading into summer months....keeping fingers crossed!!!!
Last edited by CRXDareDevil; 04-15-2014 at 09:02 AM.
04-10-2014, 04:41 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I have gone through two transistors now they keeping blowing. The first replacement blew within a week so I decided it might be the blower itself which I then replaced.
The second transistor lasted about 5 minutes and it blew too. I don't see any melted wires or connectors so I'm a little stumped now...any suggestions??
The second transistor lasted about 5 minutes and it blew too. I don't see any melted wires or connectors so I'm a little stumped now...any suggestions??
04-11-2014, 09:49 PM
#12
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I have gone through two transistors now they keeping blowing. The first replacement blew within a week so I decided it might be the blower itself which I then replaced.
The second transistor lasted about 5 minutes and it blew too. I don't see any melted wires or connectors so I'm a little stumped now...any suggestions??
The second transistor lasted about 5 minutes and it blew too. I don't see any melted wires or connectors so I'm a little stumped now...any suggestions??
04-14-2014, 03:01 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I haven't checked the blower re amps but its new.
However, I think I know what I'm doing wrong now after some more research.
The first transistor blew because I didn't know it needed to be cooled. When I bought it from the parts store I plugged it in to see if it worked and left it hanging there, by the time I got home it was super hot and blown...my bad.
I then looked on here found how to change out the blown transistor and fuse and decided to fix it. I got the right transistor but the fuse was not ceramic coated type it was metal on the outside. I since read the fuse needs to be the ceramic type not the metal kind, so I'm thinking I was using the wrong fuse.
I dunno, I'm going to try it anyways..
However, I think I know what I'm doing wrong now after some more research.
The first transistor blew because I didn't know it needed to be cooled. When I bought it from the parts store I plugged it in to see if it worked and left it hanging there, by the time I got home it was super hot and blown...my bad.
I then looked on here found how to change out the blown transistor and fuse and decided to fix it. I got the right transistor but the fuse was not ceramic coated type it was metal on the outside. I since read the fuse needs to be the ceramic type not the metal kind, so I'm thinking I was using the wrong fuse.
I dunno, I'm going to try it anyways..
04-16-2014, 06:37 PM
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07-10-2014, 01:39 PM
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07-21-2014, 10:00 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I am notoriously weak on electronics, but rebuilt the module by replacing the transistor & thermal cut-off, the result is the same--no blower activity. The ohm meter showed values, so I assume everything is working. Is the blower motor itself the next thing to test? Can I just run a couple wires from the battery to motor to test it? And would test spot be be where the 2-wire connector located on the bottom of the motor (white/blue, solid blue) is connected? To recap, symptom is there is no blower activity when turning the fan speed dial on at any speed level. Thanks. It's hot in Texas!
07-21-2014, 10:23 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I am notoriously weak on electronics, but rebuilt the module by replacing the transistor & thermal cut-off, the result is the same--no blower activity. The ohm meter showed values, so I assume everything is working. Is the blower motor itself the next thing to test? Can I just run a couple wires from the battery to motor to test it? And would test spot be be where the 2-wire connector located on the bottom of the motor (white/blue, solid blue) is connected? To recap, symptom is there is no blower activity when turning the fan speed dial on at any speed level. Thanks. It's hot in Texas!
1. Locate the blower power transistor under the passenger dash.
2. Unplug the electrical connector to the transistor unit.
3. Attach a jumper wire (short piece of wire) from the Blue/Black wire cavity to the Black wire cavity on the unplugged electrical connector. Leave the connector unplugged.
4. Turn the ignition ON, does the motor run?
07-24-2014, 06:17 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
Tech8, Thanks! Motor comes on with jumper... verified voltages, fuse, & relays, but noticed the compressor is not kicking on. Is it time to buy a new transistor assembly and forego my rework attempt? Could the transistor assembly be related to the compressor not kicking on? Confirmed there is freon in the system. (props to my neighbor for helping me with checking voltages and such.)
07-28-2014, 08:45 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
Tech8, Thanks! Motor comes on with jumper... verified voltages, fuse, & relays, but noticed the compressor is not kicking on. Is it time to buy a new transistor assembly and forego my rework attempt? Could the transistor assembly be related to the compressor not kicking on? Confirmed there is freon in the system. (props to my neighbor for helping me with checking voltages and such.)
08-09-2014, 07:40 PM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I have a '95 accord that the heat works, but I can't turn it on anymore because when I do, it sounds like I've got a train in the passenger seat, feels like a massage chair in the front, and it fumigates the car with the stench of ancient mildew. Any thoughts? (I have no clue what is up with it.)
08-10-2014, 02:16 AM
#23
Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I have a '95 accord that the heat works, but I can't turn it on anymore because when I do, it sounds like I've got a train in the passenger seat, feels like a massage chair in the front, and it fumigates the car with the stench of ancient mildew. Any thoughts? (I have no clue what is up with it.)
You might want to pull the blower motor and test it. While it is out, use the "hole" where ther blower mounts to inspect for leaves and what not in the case.
There are some "cleaners" you can buy that will clean the evap/heater core. Many you spray thru the vents, just follow the directions of the product. There are some video's that might help as well.
08-24-2014, 10:29 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
I have a 2003 accord and my blower motor is stuck at the max speed, ac also stopped working. what could be causing this? Every time I start the car the fan blows hot air at max speed and I can't turn it off!
08-26-2014, 08:54 AM
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Re: Blower motor and A/C not working
Not sure what the solution is, but to turn off the blower remove the black panel under your glove box that is snapped into place. Just Pry it off slowly, about 4-5 connections for the snap-ins. Follow the cable from your blower motor toward the center console firewall. Disconnect that connector by pulling it straight out and your blower motor & ac will stay off. This is your connection to the Blower Motor Resistor module. If you youtube 2003-2005 Honda Accords, there are plenty of videos. This is a great forum to help you diagnose. Stay tuned, someone more knowledgeable than me is sure to make some suggestions.