DeadlockRiff

This is for torsion type hood pins. The other types such as guide pin, security lock, and flush guide pin locks all share the same start up process. Only latching setup is different.

Guide Pin, 3 holes per guide pin, and the hole for the pin must be rectangular or a small enough circle not to interfere with the guide pin mount.



Tools Required

Hood Pins
-2 Pins
-4 jam nuts (washers if you enlarge too much or your pins are smaller than a 1/2")
-2 scuff plates
-8 Round Top Sheet metal screws (Anything else looks unsightly)
-2 torsion pins (recommends 2 backups)
-2 Pin ropes (optional, but highly recommended)
-2x m5-1.0 or m6-1.0 bolts (Only if installing pin ropes)
-4x m5-1.0 or m6-1.0 jam nuts (Only if installing pin ropes)
-4x m5/m6 wide face washers (Only if installing pin ropes)
-1 Bench Vice or simliar

I recommend getting 3 or 4 torsion pins because chances are, if you don't rope them
you WILL lose them.


1x Spanner Wrench to fit the size of your Jam Nut (mine was 3/4")
1x Phillips size 1 based on the size you Plate screws (If you get some Torx that's ok too)
5x Drill Bits:1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 [3mm, 6.5mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm]
1x Drill (DUH), You can use an electric but I would suggest using air if you have access to one.
1x Ball Peen Hammer or Mallet
1x Center Punch
1x Bearing Grease, lithium grease, etc. Something easily visible and goopy.


Step 1. Decide where you want them. The three main options are the two *post* inside the radiator brackets like below. (Ignore the wiring, that was mock up wiring for the fogs). (2nd) The outermost 1/2 wholes over the headlights or (3rd) the second set that rest above the highbeam lights.
(I will get a picture for these tomorrow, along with a couple other pictures).




Two outer most above the headlight
The Green circles are acceptable, the red one is not as it intersects with the curvature in the hood. Unless you like making your easy install a massive headache, I would suggest against it.


That was my 2 year old brothers hand. Excuse him as he is a bit nosy.

Version 1, you will have to lean the A/C Condensor back so you can thread the lower nut of your pin. (Upper radiator brackets)

Versions 2/3 will require removal of the headlights which also includes bumper removal.


Step 2. Remove your factory hood latch (not the cable, just the latch). This will make your life easier when cutting/measuring/adjusting. It'll also prevent miss measurements


Step 3. Grab your 1/2" drill bit and enlarge the factory hole with a quick in out. (Regardless of where you picked) If your pins are smaller than a 1/2inch do not enlarge the hole at all. Instead make sure you have the appropriate washers to keep the nuts from falling through.



Step 4. Do this step with one side at a time. Ex: Do the left, then remove the left, and start the right.

Run 1 nut up the hood pin shaft till you have about 2.75 inches above the nut. Then put the hood pin in your hole and run up the other nut from the underside of the hole. Then put a dab of your grease on the head of the pin. Gently close the hood on the pin and lift up to see the mark. The mark will always land behind the hood seal. Grab your center punch and put a pretty good since dent that your 1/8" or 1/4" bit can grab onto.

(ignore my wires, that was a mock up circuit for the fog lights. I like multitasking)



Step 5. Drill out the punched area from small to big up to your 3/4" drill bit. (When you do the second layer only go up to 5/8, the first hole needs to be larger due to the hood arc) Then add some more grease on the pin and start marking the main layer of the hood in the same manner as step 4. Be VERY sure before you go in with the center punch and knock in the main layer of the hood. Bad placement of your hit won't look to good on the other side and if you ding it hard enough in just the right place, you can forget putting in your scuff plate.


This one is the driver set first hole.





Step 6. Now that the hood can sit fully close with the pins protruding fine tune the pins to fit and taste. (loose vs tight vs push the hood down just to put in the torsion pin tight)

Step 7. Check to make sure your scuff plate will sit flush with the angle of your hood, chances are it will not so take your 5/8 bit and enlarge the inner hole and recheck. If it still doesn't fit you're going to have to oval it by drilling at an angle to make the hood curve to way it sits.
At this point it should sit flawlessly.



Step 8. Line up your scuff plate and mark the mounting holes with your center punch. (LIGHTLY) Then take your 1/8" and drill out the 4 holes per plate.




Step 9. Install your 8 sheet metal screws



Step 10. (Optional for Lanyard) Find a suitable predrilled hole in the frame and thread your m5/m6 bolt and jam nuts/washers though it. (The rope in the middle of course)



Step 11. Step back, take a ****, close the hood, and enjoy your little bit of weight reduction, simplicity, and cool points.

NZXTInerTia

Whats the point of even having these on a daily?

DeadlockRiff

I'd say somewhere around 0. Though it does eliminate the problems of frozen latches, frozen latch cables, broken button, etc. Less moving parts, being no moving parts.


Personally it saves me time when working on the car, not much but it does.

DeadlockRiff

Bump for completion.

GhostAccord

Nice mod... clean execution!

Personally, I would have put them closer to the center line of the headlights. Right in the middle of the fender/hood line and the body line in the hood.

I will be using a set of the flush mount hood pins on my build.

Mishako129

This is alight but what about if you got a carbon fiber hood what would you need to do to install it?

GhostAccord

Instal what? The hood or the pins. A carbon fiber hood is installed the same as an OEM and the pins would require the same procedure as above. Drill holes in the hood! Are you really that simple?

Go eat some hot peppers and broccoli would ya!

DeadlockRiff

the same exact procedure but I would recommend getting a rubber scuff plate for carbon fibre or fibreglass

Mishako129

I'm not simple believe it or not I am actually very sophisticated. That video I was just messing around, completely.

Is a carbon fiber hood worth the $500 in your opinion?

This looks pretty good, extra air is always good:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accord-JSP-Carbon-Fiber-Hood-with-Vent-Scoop-2-3-4-door-1990-1993-Fits-Honda-/271211208552?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1991%7CModel%3AAccord&hash=item3f25729f68&vxp=mtr

DeadlockRiff

As far as a total improvement on the car? I'd say no, your money could be better spent else where. If you're running out of improvements or its on your list anyways, go for it.

NZXTInerTia

I now have a new signature

Mishako129

But the stock hoods are so heavy and an engine needs cool air.

DeadlockRiff

What under the hood worries you enough that you need to vent it? Have you put a thermometer under there and checked temps?

I was just saying that you can make better use of your money else where. You can also reduce weight in other locations for free that will probably effect you zero anyways. (by zero I meant removal of something that won't bother you)

You can always make your own vents specifically tailored to your own needs by modifying a stock hood. EX: I was going to make a small "ram" air scoop for my S/C's TMIC when I get to that stage.

Mishako129

It doesn't really effect "zero". Have you ever opened the hood of a car that was carbon fiber? My brothers 240sx is carbon fiber and is so much lighter than my stock one its not even funny. A stock hood is heavy. Its just like how an automatic transmission is much heavier than a manual.

GhostAccord

How heavy is " so heavy"? I have my hood welded to both of my fenders and I can very easily pick it up and move it around. It's not all that heavy...Sure it's not as light as a CF hood...but really the more weight you take off over the drive wheels the less traction you will have. removing weight is something you have to measure.. you don't jsut throw CF parts at something to lighten it because you think lighter is better.

As far as the engine requiring cold air.... Having hood vents doesn't put any cooler air into the engine. And unless you were having overheating issues. The stock air flow is more than enough to keep the rad and engine cool enough.

Mishako129

I mean the intake needs the cooler air. For a short ram this would be beneficial.

How much power are you putting to the wheels to lose traction, 400 hp?

GhostAccord

Well once you have measured the under hood temps of an OEM hood vs a vented hood let us know what you find out. I have done this test and I know the difference.

Nope.. 150hp would be enough. If you remove enough weight it doesn't matter how much power you're putting down. If you take away enough weight from over the front wheels you loose traction. I'm not just talking about straight line wheel spin. I'm talking about handling traction as well. You can't remove all of the weight from the front end and think it's going to maintain it's factory handling characteristics.

DeadlockRiff

Lanyard section Added. Final Edit.

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

A picture is worth a thousand words:

MAD_MIKE

Yes it is. These hood latches are excellent. For a street car, spend the extra coin on the locking kind...

NZXTInerTia

Now THAT is something I would run. That's all you need is some dumbass who can actually identify specific car parts rolling off with your 2k turbo.. lol

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't use the locking type for several reasons:
1. water and ice will ultimately destroy this mechanism, leaving you SOL to get under the hood.
2. some jerk can just drop in some crazy glue (same effect)
3. you could loose the key
4. You could scratch the hell out of your hood just unlocking if other keys attached
5.keys are all nearly identical (others may fit with some jimmying)

Keep your hood release installed and secure it that way.

NZXTInerTia

Potentially on a summer/car show/sparsely driven car they would be fine. But there are definitely some ignorant ***** out there. Do carbon fiber hoods even have the hook to use the factory latch?

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

Both of mine do.

MAD_MIKE

In Cali, no worry no care.
Plenty of ********* key cars as well, **** happens.
I be smarter than a latch, y01
Street/race car, no care.
Admittedly, that was a generic photo I conjured up, the better units use a tubular security key.
I would maintain this as well.
'Street' hoods do. Although the latching rod in these hoods tends to be on the small side and requires moving the latching mechanism down to keep the hood from bouncing and clanging about. But hood latches are the best way to go about it. CF is tough, but it flexes and flops about quite a bit when the panel lacks any sharp angles.