DazeMS

Build list

Rocket Ported cylinder head (milled .0005) ( thanks clean rice)
BCrower valvetrain SS kit
Edelbrock 4730 camshafts
Skunk pro series ti cam gears
Skunk intake manifold
Omnipower 68mm TB
AEM fuel rail and FPR ( thanks clean rice)
310cc injectors (thanks clean rice)
96'+ jdm b18c block, stock
4-1 jdm (knock off) header to 2.5'' collector
2.5'' magnaflow high flow cat
60mm (2.25ID) N1 style exhaust
AEM CAI (full length)
Tune on Crome Pro
oem honda 3 layer gasket


Now my issue is, what valves to go with? The supertech flat face Oem replacements which are supposedly rated better then stock , or the "race" supertech valves which are supposed to be stronger via forged process, vs the SS valves.

Opinions welcome, haters welcome etc..

DazeMS

no comments... -_- hmmmm. Maybe I should upload pictures of all the parts staring at me from the corner of the room. haha

DDTECH

whats the block setup..?
This will tell the tale of displacement and compression, with that being known, you can then determine what manifold/runner setup will be ideal for your setup.
Those are "ok" cams, they should do alright, but i dont expect them to carry power much higher then 8500, and if you're still on a 1.8 liter block and mild compression that makes the performerX or a modded version your best bet manifold wise.

DazeMS

I am running the stock JDM b18c block , which already has a bump in compression. I dont think its going to make much difference, and I really dont want to rev higher then 8500 rpm anyway. This is my DD.

DDTECH

Being your Daily driver, shouldn't have a reguards on how high you rev. Its not like you're going to be reving to 10k everywhere you go. Rev range will be effected by the setup you so choose to go with..

I used to daily my car, saw 9300-9500 for awhile.

The performerX seems like a good choice right now.

HOMEMADEPOWER

You can choose between skunk2,ferrea,toda,and supertech.Go with what you can afford brah.

DazeMS

I know. for my dd I do not want or have the setup to go past 9. that's one of the reasons for the cams I chose, that an forced induction later on down the road.

blackeg

i would honestly use stock valves. they hold up fine in my 8800 rpm 11 second turbo car.

if you are really concerned id run oem intake and exhaust valves made of inconel . avoid supertech valves like the plague, they have a horrible history of breaking.

just to stir the pot on the intake manifold, what about a ported p30? if i remember the oem p30 im out performs the blox/itr type manifolds up to about 8000 rpm. maybe a light port match etc can help it keep up in the 8000-9000 range

DazeMS

so, your saying the Skank2 is going to have issues breathing 8-9k?

thankyou black, that is my main concern. I wanted to use stock valves and my builders suggest the supertech race valves.. I have no experience with them and cant seem to get an answer as to "why". Im not running a huge cam or lots of compression, so am confused as to the need of forged valves..

vtec8200

In my opinion, I don't see why you would need to upgrade your valves, I don't remember seeing anyone having problem or reliability issues with oem ones. I think aftermarket ones exist for people who need to replace the oem ones because they are too worn or bent or setups making a lot of heat. I would personally do a good performance valve job on oem ones. Aren't most aftermarket valves heavier from what I've read before?

DazeMS

vtec.. that is my opinion as well, and has been for years now. I cant see why reputable shops would give me grief over using a stock valve when these same shops use honda belts an gaskets and swear by them. lol

DazeMS

Does anyone have any experience with TOPLine valves?

vtec8200

Did you ask them?

DazeMS

lol.. yes.. Evans tuning says they will not use stock valves in a cylinder head build. I just laughed. I asked ,"why" and he said because we have had bad results. He did not give details( even though I asked for details) and even said if they are new and in spec, whats the issue? Plenty of high HP builds run oem valves with no problems. His reply " we don't run them, we had issues with oem valves and i recommend the supertech race valves as thats all we do when building a head." I asked what he considered beneficial as from my experience, if you crack a retainer, it matters little what "valve" you use.

I just researched TopLine parts, they seem to be an affordable , quality product. At the price for all 16 valves (average 120$) I guess i am going to pick up a set.

vtec8200

I just hope they were not trying to just do some upsale. If you get those valves and weight them and find out they are heavier than stock I wouldn't run them personally, less chance of something going wrong in case of a miss shift, but I have never had experience with aftermarket valves or building engines.

DazeMS

BUMP.. added photos.. yo

DazeMS

4730 camshafts


rocket cylinder head

DazeMS

BUMP... well.. it looks like I will not be able to run the cylinder head at this time. So I will be having the cams/gears/tb installed an tuned and a before an after dyno will be posted. I guess this will be better in the long run so I can see how a the ported head and cams effect the motor individually and combined.

being that I have not found a dyno plot with these cams an just bolt-ons, I feel this could help those to compare it to other cams etc.. should be on the dyno in a week or less.. cheers

blackeg

good luck with it man, im in for results on the cams!

DazeMS

question:::::: does 300$ for installation for cams and valve-train sound like a decent deal? Seems expensive IMHO...

blackeg

from a shop it doesnt seem too bad, from a friend or person who does it on the side it might be a bit much. you pretty much have to take the whole head apart, its a couple of hours worth of work...

DazeMS

hmmm... Im just trying to find a place thats going to charge me for actual time and not book time. Oh well.. I will be scheduling dyno time thurs or friday.

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a nice setup you got going so far.. interested to see how the Dyno comes out..what kind of tranny you have? I also understand what you're saying about the DD thing.. I have an LSV all motor as my DD and I'd say about 70% of the time I am normally driving within the 3k-6k range going back and forth to work and driving around here and there..the rest of course pushing past that, I usually try and redline around 8k..but everyone has their own powerband goals.

Natural Aspirations

The 4730's are shockingly stout, the advertised spec's aren't anything that jumps out but they seems to be one hell of a deal for $300. I've seen them make a huge improvement on a lil'1.6 turbo car

DazeMS

I am running the stock gsr trans. yup, IF I take it to the track it may only be once or twice a year. Most of my driving is in traffic etc, and for me, a good midrange power band is better suited for everyday life. Current exhaust is almost 2 times bigger in ID then stock. Thats plenty for my power goals. Peak numbers arent super important in this build, "yet"..


Word.. Its a far better deal then buying used ITR camshafts. Which people kept telling me to buy. smh. I do have future plans for a turbo setup and possibly a sleeved 82mm bottom end build. :-p