driftguy2008

Hey guys is it worth to do a H series swap? For $1000 I can get a 94 h22a2 vtec compete head with intake fuel rail & injectors & TB, 97 h23a3 complete block 0 miles on rebuild, 94 h22a2 5 speed no pops or grinds. Comes with axles half shaft p/s pump & bracket new clutch kit & flywheel resistor block and mounts etc all I need is harness & ecu. Is it worth the swap and price?

doctorake

Define worth it.

JuggerNaut-CTR

Only "worth it" if you were to go h2b...otherwise no

H22AHatchBack

Totally worth the swap. Its like a poor mans K swap. Depending on what you put it in, You will be compleetly satisfied with the results. I've got a JDM H22A and the LSD transmission in my CX Hatch. And if I wasnt shooting for 12's then it would be all the power I'd ever need.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Ditto the H2B route. A lot of hassle to do. Renders the chassis nearly useless to swap anything else in later. If you've ever driven an H-series powered car you'd jump on it.

94EG8

If those are swap mounts and axles yeah, worth it I'd say.

There was never really anything wrong with a straight H22 swap other than everyone broke axles before the aftermarket came up with mounts that put the engine in a more favorable position, it's still not perfect, and if you're very low you're still going to have axle issues, but at that price point it's a good deal.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I just wouldn't relish the cutting you have to do in cabin for the shifter.

cvcrcr99

H2b or go K series IMO.

driftguy2008

this is my first honda so i dont know much about them, im guessing a h2b is a h22 with a b series trans cause i doesnt look like you guys favor h series trans.

Gotem1523

Sell me the swap

94EG8

It is. It requires the use of a kit, the main part of which includes an adapter plate. The kit isn't cheap. IIRC around $1300 and then you still need to pick up a B-series trans. The big advantage of it is much more favorable axle angle, more gearing options and not having to hack the chassis up to run the H-series cable shifter.

Poor axle angle, cable shifter, require cutting up the chassis to a degree. Fewer aftermarket options for gearing and such. A lot of people think it's a weaker trans, that's not really true, but it looks that way because an H-series makes a fair bit more power than a B-series.

driftguy2008

im just looking for cheap fun, the h series trans should work for now or should i save and get a b series trans plus adapter etc?

94EG8

Once you cut the chassis up it's kind of a pain in the *** to go back to a stock setup. You'll have to drill all the spot welds out of the passener's side transmission mount welded to the frame rail and replace it with one that isn't cut. You'll also have to fix the holes you you put in the floor.

Brettboat

I've been thinking about a H22 swap with an intercooled turbo, build the bottom end and run like 10-15PSI, though it doesn't seem anyone managed to keep the AC compressor and condenser doing this... Love my AC

EGxBoostFiend

^i ride in his car all the time. Couldn't believe the power it had on a bonestock engine. it's faster than my boosted d15 if that tells you anything. If you want to keep your car all motor H-series is the best way to go imo

H-series is a high compression engine, you really need to do quite as bit to them to run any boost reliably. I've never actually seen a Turbo H in person.

OP i would try to steer clear of the cable tranny's like the other members said on here tho. The shifter in H22AHatchback's car acts a little funny somtimes. And i don't think you can use the console if you do that.

94EG8

Everyone and their dog used to run turbo H22s around here. A lot of them were stock from what I recall.

You can still use the console, it's tight but it fits.

Budget Street

if your thinking about going H
check out these mounts from explicit speed performance

i did a lot of research before purchasing a set for my self.

i do like hasport mounts but for H swap hasport mounts locate the engine too far forward causing axle binding issues. especially when your lowered. there are actually several versions of the hasport mounts. the latest version moved the engine more to the passenger side to allow ps also making it necessary to purchase hasport axles.

Brettboat

Most Honda engines are high compression... There are ways to drop compression... Shorter rods and the like. Not sure why some people are afraid to rip an engine down and build it up how you want/need it.

You can turbo a high compression engine as it is... It's just not ideal!

JRCivic1

For what it is worth... both K-tuned and Hybrid offer a bolt-in under tunnel shifter assembly that will work with an H22 transmission (you will need RSX cables and an adapter bracket at the trans end), and this eliminates the need to modify the shifter tunnel.

Cutting the right side mount horns can be reversed relatively easily if necessary... the bracket can be bought from Honda new for less than $50 if my memory recalls, and a smattering of paint makes it look stock again. Another thought: the next step up from an H22 is a K-Series swap, which also requires the removal of the right side engine bracket.

I have driven an H22 powered 1995 civic DX coupe almost daily since 2002. It has a cable transmission and shifts like butter using a Place Racing under-mount shift box. All motor, 229 WHP, 12.90's @ 105 in the 1/4 mile, 33 mpg on the highway... full interior. The only thing missing is A/C.

My 2 cents is to get some Hasport mounts and axles and enjoy it... you are in it really cheap at this point. You won't be sorry. The H22 has never received the respect it deserves.

H22AHatchBack

What JRCivic1 said. The H22 Isnt well recconized in the Honda comunity outside of a prelude. Because your just starting with Hondas keep your swap simple and Just focus on gettng it in.

jbpnoman

There's one big disadvantage to the H block no one has mentioned yet. FRM sleeves. They require specially made pistons, and if you ever want to sleeve the block (Darton, AEBS, whatever) you'll need to find a specialized machine shop that carries the correct drill press bit to cut FRM sleeves, and they'll charge you out the *** for it, because that bit isn't cheap.

If it were my car, I would sell the H swap, and use that money on a (much easier, with more potential for less cost) B swap.

EGxBoostFiend

I don't think people are "afraid" i think few people really want to pay to have it sleeved to run aftermarket pistons. (which you need, because of the way H-series cylinders are made. Unless you get the Mahle Golds which arent forged)
I haven't seen any aftermarket companies that sell different length rods.. You lost me there. Manley, Brian Crowler, and Carrillo all say there H22 rods are 5.636" Eagles rods are advertised at 5.63"
I would just change the pistons if i was trying to lower compression..
Yes you can bolt a turbo kit on to them an run for a given amount of time. But I said reliably..

Brettboat

I was just giving an example, I haven't looked into it myself.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

If you go H and plan on boosting also plan on sleeving it. If you plan on leaving it stock then no issues.

Budget Street

jbpnoman is correct about the frm cylinder walls which is a concern if the block has been rebuilt. what was done to the block.
there are 3 different type of sleeves
the least expensive is a steel liner that can be installed in place of the frm
the frm is fiber reinforced material which is actually very strong but cannot be honed like a normal iron cylinder.