young_

My car is a 1996 Honda Civic Ex, I'm having a problem with my car stalling/cutting off when I press in my clutch to come to a stop. I'll press in the clutch as I come to a stop and the rpm's just go straight to zero. Sometimes the rpm's will go down to almost 0 but not actually cut off, and then just idle very low. When the car cuts off I can crank it back up and it will idle every time, just low, and will not cut off. It only does it when I come to a stop. Any idea what this could be? IACV?

Car has all new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, 4-2-1 header, and AEM cold air intake.

Any and all help is appreciated!

also: I do have a CEL on, but for a downstream o2 sensor. (<< Not sure if it's relevant to this problem)

shiroun

I'd have to guess your clutch or pressure plate are shot. Try to get rid of the downstream o2 cel first (go to a shop and get them to bypass it and put a wideband in.. or something), and if it still occurs get your clutch and pressure plate replaced.

young_

I sure hope not. How could the clutch cause the low idle though?

and I plan to replace the downstream o2 sensor soon.

young_

Bump for a quick resolution? :D

ozh_hawaiian

i had the same problem, and after I changed the o2 sensor( i only have 1 odb1) it stopped doing it.... change that sensor.... i got one on ebay for like 35

young_

Well my only concern with that is your's would be the primary upstream o2 sensor which main role is to monitor the air/fuel ratio and send a message to the computer to compensate for fuel/air as needed. Whereas mine is the downstream secondary o2 sensor which main role (could be wrong here) is to check to see that the catalytic converter is functioning properly.

But either way I will replace this soon and report back with the results.

In other news I cleaned my IACV and it didn't help.

Frozen E

Are you getting any weird sounds from the tranny area when you depress the clutch pedal? Like a grinding/squealing sound? If so, it could be your throw out bearing going out or even the pilot bearing.

It almost sounds to me like your pressure plate isn't fully disengaging the clutch disc when you push down on the pedal. This could be either your master or slave cylinder on your clutch going out. You could have air in the lines. Check the level of the fluid. Since you're in there you might as well bleed the clutch until you get nice clean fluid from the bleeder. See if that helps. If not, you might be on your way to replacing a master/slave cylinder or a clutch.

young_

No strange sounds from the transmission. But my 2nd gear synchro is bad so second pops out sometimes, I've just stopped using it.

Interesting that you mention the clutch fluid. I just recently had to add fluid to the clutch reservoir because it was low. It wasn't empty though, just low.

But I had ran into this problem once before, way before I added fluid.

I still don't understand how the clutch could cause a low idle. When the car is idling in neutral (right now at 300 rpm's) let's say I rev to 3000 rpm's, when the rpm's come back down the needle drops to almost 0 and then slowly climbs back up. Sometimes back to 800.

Former User

This is just a run of the mill low idle problem, right?

Pull the CEL codes again now to see if something new pops up.

young_

Ron! :D We've missed you over at club civic!

I actually just replaced the downstream o2 sensor and reset the ecu by disconnecting the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes, reconnected the cable, turn the car on and let idle for 10 minutes, turned car off, turned back on, and then drove. The CEL came back on while it was running after the first crank. The CEL code is PO141 - Secondary o2 sensor circuit heater malfunction. This code was the reason I replaced the downstream o2 sensor in the first place, and now for whatever reason I can't seem to get it to go away.

And I don't know if this is just a run of the mill low idle problem because my car keeps stalling. What's your thoughts Ron?

Former User

Hey Young.

Is 7.5A dash fuse 15 blown? Check for voltage on both top test tabs with the key in ON(II).

If the fuse is blown, click the Fuse 15 TSB in my signature.

young_

So assuming that that was the problem, that would only fix my CEL, and not my idle issue, correct?

Former User

If fuse 15 is blown, the voltage regulator in the alternator also wouldn't work properly and this would affect the idle speed. Test fuse 15 as I mentioned.

young_

Fuse 15 is not blown.

Edit: But I did look into it, and it did sound like a likely culprit because my speedometer works on and off as well. Upon reading into it, the speedometer will not work at all with that fuse blown though, and mine comes on intermittently.

Any other ideas?

Former User

Does fuse 15 have voltage on both top test tabs?

young_

ahhh, this is where my mechanical knowledge hits a wall.

I'm assuming I should take a multimeter to the metal slots where the teeth of the fuse would go into, and check for voltage?

I apologize for the noobness :/

Former User

Click the Test Fuses link in my signature. Don't remove the fuse. Measure voltage on both top test tabs of the installed fuse with the key in ON(II).

young_

So according to the link in your signature I need a test light? and this quote from that site makes it sound like you yield the same results from visually inspecting the fuse, and checking with a test light, and that the test light is just to save time.

"There are two ways to check fuses the first is the good old fashion way of removing each fuse and visually inspecting each fuse. It's time consuming but effective. And the easy way, but you need a "test light" before you can begin."

Not trying to argue, just asking.

If you still recommend the test light method I'll try and get my hands on one.

In the mean time are there any other possible leads I could chase down, or is this really the main culprit?

Former User

It's easy to miss a blown fuse by visual inspection. Happens all the time on this forum. Voltage testing fuses is fool proof and also tells you whether the fuse gets voltage.

You can use a test light or multimeter.

young_

Got ya. It would take me some time to hunt down a test light (or if they're inexpensive I'll just buy one) but I do have access to a multimeter, I just don't know how to use it properly.

And as stated before, are there any other leads to chase down?

Former User

You can buy a digital multimeter from Harbor Freight Tools for $4 when it's on sale. Look for a coupon. A test light is about the same price so don't bother given that you can do so much more with a multimeter.

The O2 sensor heater, VSS and alternator voltage regulator are all on the fuse 15 circuit, so you can understand why testing this circuit is the highest priority.

In the meantime, look for the diagram in the FAQs sticky that describes how to adjust the idle speed for your car and engine. Follow the instructions there.

young_

You are SO HELPFUL. :D lol

I appreciate all the help, I really do. I'm currently at my father's house and he has a multi meter, so I just have to learn the right way to use it to test the fuse. I'm off work tomorrow and it's almost midnight in my time zone so I'll tackle this in the morning. If it is indeed this problem I'll be extremely happy because the fix is virtually free. I read into that link in your signature and apparently the engine harness rubs against the intake manifold bracket? That would be great if I could fix the CEL for the o2 sensor, speedometer not working, and my low idle all at one time.

young_

Using a test light, both top test tabs made the light come on, so I guess the fuse is good.

Any other ideas?

Former User

young_

Alright, will do. Any ideas on why my CEL won't go away, even after replacing the downstream o2 sensor?