DarKStaR5

do you think the 550s will be enough injector for e85? Trying to make in the 260-270whp range

zuptidi

I'd be iffy about that, looks like a unorthodox pulley; known to break oil pumps and other problems.

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

I believe 750's would be more suited for e85

SL0WEGG

I'd be sketched out rocking a crank pulley that didn't have a harmonic balancer within it.

You could get close to that power. Just pump that base fuel pressure lol

DarKStaR5

yea thats what i was going to run was 750s but if the 550s would work i was going to scoop them up from you.

What crank pulley would yall recommend? I know for a fact a factory one will not work lol.

Libertariat

Proofs:

http://youtu.be/DS3OSXCrGWk

SL0WEGG

I've been using a shaved oem pulley for a while. Krut has a euroR single row on his. That seems to be the general consensus as far as pulleys being used. I think I was at like 70-80% duty cycle when I was making 233 with 45psi base fuel pressure. Duty cycle might be less. To be safe, you can roll with some id725s or 1000s(I think jaywest is using these)

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

I use ID 725cc and have made 280 and still had more to go

JayWest

Fuel injector clinic 900s here

Might do some injector/fuel testing this year.

Krut

Car fired up today, injectors were not getting power at first, rywire harness had a plug for what looked like it was meant for a resistor box (1 power wire and 4 for the injectors) had to snip the plug off and tap them all to that power wire, started right up after that

SiR_Chris

Well the Sol is FINALLY in for tuning



custom lower TB cover:








Suspension finally fitted:

SL0WEGG

When are you getting tuned?

Tkay08

hMmm, that's what i thought. I knew the OEM pulley will have a problem with the belt going onto the alternator. I need a new belt since i deleted ps and ac. Where can i buy these items ?

YeeJ6

lower timing belt cover looks sick!

DarKStaR5

I guess i should have specified..... The last time the motor went into the car we shaved the factory crank pulley down, but the top of the pulley hit the frame rail and i was not pulling the motor back out to bang in the side. So we decided to use a unorthodox pulley since it was smaller and im pretty sure thats what my problem was with the last motor. The pulley thats on there now isnt the same as i had before and is a different style, but was on the motor when i got it and was running fine.

I plan on beating in the frame rail to give me more clearance this time, so should i go back with the shaved down factory pulley?

Edit: keep in mind this is in an integra..

Bently_Coop

I purchased a f20b pulley from steve at h motors that may be another option for you.

turtleman321

You should definitely bang the frame rail in and use a shaved oem pulley or f20b single row pulley moved in 1/2"

I am using a stock h22 shaved pulley, with qsd kit and hasport mounts in a crx. all i had to do was bang the frame rail for the alternator and crank pulley.

im using an explicit speed alternator bracket

DarKStaR5

Looks like i need to go dig up the shaved pulley. Luckily i had no problems with the altenator clearing, its a little tight but no modification was needed.

DA is best

iTrader: (1)

Upper or lower?

turtleman321

Upper.

SL0WEGG

There's really just one spot that you need to bang for eg/dc. So ez, better to be safe than sorry IMO. Especially since you killed some bearings last time with an aftermarket pulley. I'd be paranoid.

DarKStaR5

Yea i was going to go ahead and bang that spot where the top of the factory pulley hit when the motor comes out. There was just no way to do it without pulling the motor last time and we were on a tight schedule.

Libertariat

Burned up my logic header today!

CivicB18C1

Do I need to relocate my alternator lower,
Or will it work in the stock position? (in an Ek hatch)

Libertariat

My alternator is in the stock location.

Besides, any lower you would be in the way of the A/C compressor