djslim23

No worries. The only "strange" wires for the obd2 d15b's are the EGR wires, the extra vtec wire, and the Econo light wire. Everything else should be the same as other d-series'.

Ayeso

I know this is a pretty old post but just thought I'd share my experience.

I just did this swap this weekend and got everything working correctly.

Code 38 IS secondary VTEC on the P2J-J11 ECU

The 2 VTEC wires on OBD2B are B12 and B24. Hope this helps anyone who stumbles across this topic! I found this topic but couldnt find the obd2b wiring.

EGR is not needed and wont throw a cel!

You can also tap and drill a 2 wire IACV onto the AUTO D15B manifold and then block the 3 Wire IACV with no issues!

JDM_addict

any idea on how to do DIY 'ECONO' light on normal dash?

Ayeso

I just was gonna do 3 wires mainly for testing. This is for OBD2B

Hook up 3 LEDs to a resistors, and then run a wire from

B12 for 12v to 16v
B24 for Vtec
A28 for Econo (This needs to be tested still)

OBD2A would be similar but from my understanding it would be.
A8 for 12v to 16v
A21 for Vtec
A30 for Econo

JDM_addict

man, i am completely electric nerd...
i need more details on the econo light.. i sliced tru the wht/red wire(couldn't remember which no. on the plug i think A4?) and hooked up a led and the other eend to ground, jus like wiring the VTEC. But it doesnt light up when rpm was at around 1-2k. Maybe wiring is wrong.
Let me know again after u have tested with resistor.. thanks.

94EG8

code 38 added to CEL sticky for future reference.

FRESH.EJ1

Hello fellow d15b 3-stagers lol

I have acquired this motor and am currently collecting items for the swap. I am also doing a 5sp swap at the same time but I should have all the components....

Heres my setup so far
ex tranny
exedy 10.9 flywheel
exedy stage one clutch
arp flywheel pro series bolts
y8 or z6 IM (not sure which would be better)
d15b 3 stage (about 37k and siting for a maybe 2 months)
minty d15b7 distributor
spare y8 harness and a d15b7 harness currently in the car.
hondata s300
Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2

1. Alright, so my first question is with the s300 do I get a p28 and use the nos port as the high vtec, or do I get a p72 and use the iab port for stage 3? And does anyone have a base map on hand they can send? I found one, but I think its an AEM map (saved it anyways though).

2. Also since it has been sitting there longer than I expected, if the water pump happens to be rusted out... I know I need a vx belt but are all the water pumps compatible? and what about oil pump, a y8? I had this link: http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/hop2ap2jtibe.html
however the swap will most likely be done this weekend so I doubt it will get here by then lol.

3. Wiring! I honestly have not installed a motor before, but have removed one (friends crashed ek, which is where got the spare y8 harness) so I have an understanding. However the actual engine harness is still in the bay, sorry to be all noobish, but how do you pull out the harness from the firewall? the dash is just about the only thing left on the shell, someone mentioned having to remove that, however I feel like it should be possible to remove with it still in? Anyways, (no egr) I just need to wire vtec, and swap the iacv wiring correct? The wideband O2 sensor apparently reads up to 22.4AFR... Is that everything?

4. Lastly the years of the d15b 3 stage... I heard it started in the eg range? wouldn't that mean there are 2 somewhat different head/block combos? Vx block and y8 head I hear is the combo.... but there was no vx in 96+ soo... would that mean a y5 bottom end and y8 head? And IF the eg 3 stage d15b's did exist somewhere in 92-95, then the vx bottom end and y8 would make sense... but then people say vx block and z6 head -.- . Just trying to figure the actual production years so I can really understand what replacement parts to look for when things start wearing down. Or compared to the the reg jdm d15b, besides the 3 stage, is anything different at all? crank? oil pump? etc..

Thanks for all your help, hopefully I can get this running soon lol

pating

djslim23,

I am doing a frankenstein P2J 3-stage vtec head swap from a donor d15B engine into my non-vtec ph16 block. Using the P2J box, which wires form the ecu leads to which among the two vtec solenoids? I am reading two different pinouts from this thread, one post says A21 for the 12V-16V and A08 for the 16V high lift, while another post says its B12 and B24 while your photo doesnt show terminals for B, only for A, C and D.

Also, if i will get into fuel mapping issues after i get the engine started, how do i go about tuning the ECU? do i rechip the P2J box? and if i do, does rechipping consider 2 vtec points inside its program?

Thanks.

Unphzd

Pating if you are running the p2j obd2A ecu then you will be using this

-----a. VTEC (2 solenoids)
++++++++2nd stage (16 Valve Mode) -- A21--red/green? test...
++++++++3rd stage (Vtec, same pin as USDM obd2a) -- A08--red/green? test...

tony_2018

Wow, more and more people are doing this swap. What are your reasons guys? I'm for the lean burn mode.

elmalouno

Back from the dead, seems this is one of the better threads covering this swap though..

i am wondering about the manifold issue... maybe i am reading this wrong but it seems like you are saying you must run a manifold from a manual car if you run a manual ecu? can you not just do the three wire to two wire trick or is there another issue?

thanks much

djslim23

Whew, I haven't been on H-T in a hot minute . I've been meaning to clear some stuff up on this thread since I made it quite a bit ago. But basically, you've got the rite idea. The issue is that M/T ecu's will be looking for a 2-wire IACV, the IACV itself. I got an A/T d15b from HMO which has a real funky 3-wire IACV. I'm not handy enough to fab the appropriate 2-wire IACV on there, but I've heard people have done it (you'd need a block off plate for the 3-wire and then you'd have to drill for the 2-wire because they are drastically different in shape/size). I hope that answers your question...but if not, there is plenty of info out there on this stuff....all the info that's here I've found elsewhere online!

elmalouno

yep all good, i was confused because i got a manual engine... trans came with mine as well.

i got mine up and running on a y8 ecu and got my car inspected. now i am running the jdm p2j and its running pretty nice, no cel. i have a little green led that lights for lean burn mode. the only issue i am having and i think i read somewhere that others were having as well, is a bog at idle once the engine is warm. if i come to a stop light the engine sputters down below 800rpm and has actually stalled on me.

i am now trying to track down the EGR pinouts for the p2j ecu. i want to hook it up and see if that makes a difference. i suspect its the missing link.

only thing i have found so far is ecu pin D 9 valve lift sensor

wangass

Hi guys, I know this thread is old but I recently swapped my old engine for a D15b 3 stage vtec manual tranny. My engine is running on a P2J-004 box and i want the ECONO light to run. Which one is the correct wire for the ECONO light, is it A28 or A30? i think more people is switching to d15b with 3 stage vtec because you can get a high milleage for your gasoline and still the VTEC kicks in!

HondaPartsHero

Its auto but should be similar, looks like A30?

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...e-harness.html

Jstill

kinda off subject, but I was wondering if a d15b OBD0 intake/header would bolt up to newer d15b from a OBD2 civic. CRX HF spun a rod bearing and looking for replacement motor with low miles.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Nice thread jack. This aint the CRX forum.

Jstill

the crx is irrelevant, the question was about a d15b, which this thread is about dumb@$$.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You jacked a thread talking about 3-stage VTEC and I'm the dumbass? And you say that it's off-topic in your post? Read the rules. You must list all vehicle information. If you're talking about a CRX then this is in the wrong forum REGARDLESS of what engine is in the car. This isn't the D15b forum.

nikitad

Oh, don't be such a doodoohead, grumblemark, his question is more relevant than your comment.
Of course him calling you dumb@$$ was uncalled for either.

ANSWER: the intake manifold will fit. But you might as well keep the manifold that comes on that D15b from obd2 civic (seeing how the us obd2 civics never had a D15 engine, he must be talking about D15b dual vtec solenoid), since that manifold was designed to work well with that engine. Of course, it would be best to use it with a native for it computer as well.

JesseCRX

Thanks for the info.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Excellent! Talk about keeping it on topic. This is why threads get convoluted.

tony_2018

What timing belt kit did you guys use?

starkiller

I didn't know if I should start a new thread or use this one. I figure I would use this one since it has info in it.
I have a 1997 Civic EX Auto that I just had this engine put in. Right now the High VTEC Solenoid is wired up to my stock ECU and it kicks in at 6000~ RPM.
the Low VTEC is not wired up.

I would like to know where I can get a Vac/RPM switch that I can use for the Low VTEC and then eventually what ECU I need to get and Harness to get this working as close correctly as possibly with the stock tranny, and of course get the CEL off.

starkiller

Well, I got the RPM switch and Relay, but it looks like the guy who installed it used the old single VTEC solenoid from my old engine(I saw 2 solenoids when I picked the engine out). Does anyone have a list of Front Head codes for this or the D15Z7 as mine say P2J-5. I am going back monday to see why a 2 stage solenoid was used instead of the 3 stage and get the 3-stage back.