94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Hello all,

I just finished replacing some ball joints on my 94 Civic EX knuckles and I thought I would share with you. There are already several threads that detail this, even with these same tools, but none of them actually set the pieces in proper order. You'll know you've got it right because the parts all fit together like a puzzle. So here we go...

Tools:
- Autozone/OEM 27023 Ball Joint Press
- Autozone/OEM 27164 Honda Ball Joint Adapter Set
- 3/8" ratchet with a 7/8" socket
- A can of grease for the friction surfaces

If you have the 40mm circlips around the ball joints, you will also need snap-ring pliers or needle-nose pliers with a couple flat-head screwdrivers to remove & install them.



Step one is to remove the old ball joint boot. There is a circlip around the old boot that comes off easily with a flat-blade screwdriver. Sometimes the ball-joints will have a 40mm snap ring around the ball joint to keep it from coming out. If yours has this, be sure to remove it before pressing the ball joint out. You can use snap ring pliers or a needle-nose pliers and a screw driver. Here is my old ball-joint ready to be pressed out:



Now this is how you setup all the adapters to press the old ball-joint out. The "F" adapter has a very tight fit down into the knuckle. Give it some taps with your ratchet to seat it down as far as you can. If it's sticking up, it can be difficult to get the C-clamp over everything (even with the screw backed all the way out. A couple times I had to bang on the c-clamp with my ratchet to get it to seat down properly. You'll know when it's in there cause everything snaps into place. Grease up your screw and start cranking:



Now here is the proper way to setup all the adapters to install your new ball-joint. The "D" and "F" adapters fit right into each other. The flat part of the "D" adapter then rests right against the dust shield (won't bend it or anything during install). If you use the "D" adapter by itself, you will damage the dust shield, and the ball-joint. By itself, the "D" adapter is not deep enough for the ball-joint to press all the way through. As you turn the crank, the ball joint will eventually smash into the inside of the adapter. I did this the first time and now that ball-joint is all loose and the threads got smashed. This was the whole reason I did this write-up. That way others wouldn't make this same mistake.

Once all the parts are snug in place, go ahead and crank away.



Once the screw stops turning, remove the whole press assembly. Now install your 40mm Cir-Clip at the base of the ball-joint to keep it from ever backing out (I don't have one of these to show you). Go ahead and finish the other side and return your tools for a full refund!!! Don't forget to celebrate with a beer...

92lxsleeper

i used that for the balljoints on my silverado. had to use the biggest ring, and it barely fit because of something with the lower control arm

1250b18c5

Believe it or not...the SAME C-Clamp press kit CAN be used to ALSO do the hub bearings....just need to know someone at a machine shop who can make up the adapters for THE tool you've just used above! No Lie's! It CAN be done.

I HAVE the Same tool you've just posted above AND the made up adapters to DO hub bearings!

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Already got you covered:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/front-wheel-bearing-replacement-harbor-freight-tool-set-66829-a-2984426/

sde780

Bump for a good writeup! I'm going to be changing mine soon.

Former User

I also used the AutoZone rental tool and adapters to replace my ball joints. I assembled the adapters into the tool a bit differently, so there is more than one way to get the job done:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=20

Entire thread:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2957974

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Yes, your thread was the inspiration for my thread. I wanted to show how to use the adapters so you won't crush the thin-walled "F" part and bend the dust sheild.

Former User

I didn't have those problems.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I did. Plus I crushed one of the ball joints. Trust me, this is how the tool is supposed to be setup.

Former User

I did both knuckles using the tool/adapter configurations shown in my post and had no problems whatsoever. In my recollection, the critical part of the process was assembling the adapters flush and straight. Once that was done, the ball joint came out and went in quickly and smoothly.

Former User

Why would you say that your way is "how the tool is supposed to be setup" when the way I showed worked without a hitch for both of my knuckles? Have you considered other explanations, such as potential differences between the 94 and 97 Civic knuckles or that you misaligned the adapters when you tried the configurations I showed?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Honestly I'm trying to start a fight. I just would like to point out the potential problems with your setup:

Removal: The C clamp is not centered and the all the adapters are not "fit" together like a puzzle. There is room for error. Plus the thin-walled F adapter has no support in the thin area and can buckle. Especially since it's getting uneven pressure in only 2 spots from the clamp.

Install: If the ball joint stud isn't perfectly centered during the pressing, it will miss the hole in the A disc. If that happens, it will bind up and crush the balljoint within one turn of the wrench. The result is an obviously loose ball joint. This is what happened to me when I tried using the D adapter on it's own before I realized D & F fit together.

With my setup, all these potential problems are eliminated. As well as your issue of getting things centering. I replaced two ball joints in the Autozone parking lot in 10 minutes.

The only problem I've had is getting the F adapter down into the knuckle far enough during removal. And even that is quickly overcome with a couple taps from your ratchet.

Former User

It would seem so.

For whatever reason, inclusion of adaptor A where you placed it, impeded my ability to properly align the tool and adapters on the knuckle. I believe there is room for error using your method or mine, though in my case such error was easily avoided as adapter F (C' in my thread) fit nicely into a groove and evenly seated around the base of the ball joint. And the theoretical uneven pressure you mention was a non-issue in my case as I had no problems.

I agree that centering is key for both your method and mine. But with just a little care and attention to detail, this potential issue can be avoided in both cases.

It took a similar time for me to remove and install both ball joints.

This is not an issue if you remove adapter A as I did.

I can't explain your difficulties and problems using the adapter configurations that I posted because I did not encounter them. I'm glad, however, that you found a way to overcome your problems and get the job done.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Your totally right about the F adapter being supported. My bad. Don't know what I was thinking there.

I didn't have trouble with the A disc fitting on either the 9.4" rotor EG knuckle nor the 10.3" rotor EG/DC knuckles. I'm seeing a different part numbers for EG to EK knuckles (DX trim w/ 9.4" rotors) so definitely could be the source of the issue (like you already mentioned).

Former User

strategy400

I'm so confused. I guess I'll get those tools and make like a rubics cube. How much are the parts?

Former User

AutoZone Tool Loan Program ---> You pay for the tools and then get a full refund when you return them.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Cost for the tools is ~$210. It's all refunded when you bring it back. If you pay with a credit card, the money is just charged back to your account. If you pay with a debit card, they give you cash back. So if you don't want a pile of cash to be extraced from your checking account, use your credit card.

As for any confusing, if you have an EG or DC, follow my instructions above. If you have an EK, follow RonJ@HT's link.

strategy400

Not the tools... the parts.

Former User

I bought OEM lower ball joints from Majestic Honda. Enter your VIN there and add the shipping and handling cost.

strategy400

I see they are ~$55. So you guys are only changing the lower joints? Do the uppers last longer?

Former User

The upper ball joints can also fail. When this happens, you replace the whole upper control arm.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

OEM/Musashi Lower ball joints for Civcs/Integra/Del Sol are $40 shipped. Don't pay more than that.

http://www.g1parts.com/SearchResults...=51220-S04-003

Just remember, ball joints are not regular wear items. Only replace them if they've gone bad. If you want to know how to diagnose a bad one, just google it. There are lots of videos on youtube and stuff.

dh

iTrader: (3)

Just used this kit to replace my upper and lower ball joints.

As far as removal goes, it was easier for me to just put piece C over the bottom of the ball joint and use a piece of wood and a mallet to hit it and pop it out. Seemed to save alot of time rather than trying to piece together the pieces and making sure theyre snug.

and my experience is the same as the OP, I had to use D and F together because D was too shallow for the ball joint.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Good to know. I was re-using my ball joints on another knuckle, so knocking them out with a hammer didn't appeal to me. Though I guess if you've got the C adapter over the stud, your not going to injure the stud or ball joint in any way.