scioninla

Nice write up... Thanks so much.

aearl34

my car idles way high.. today i got in it and it was idling around 3500.. its a 93 gsr rebuilt 10k ago, ready for turbo.
would it idle so high because it has bigger injectors and fuel rail without running turbo?

knduong

For those who don't want to remove the intake manifold and possibly your strut bar if you have one, I didn't need to. Took off the coolant line and clamped it with a vise grip to prevent leaks, also removed the 3 bolts quite easy, some require an extension and getting underneath other lines, but its very easy.

Musicninja007

Still gotta get to ordering new gaskets for the fitv/iacv.

but am i correct in thinking that if it's only bouncing/fluctuating/whathaveyou before it's all warmed up that the vacuum leak is around the fitv and not the iacv?

trucku

New guy here. Hi everyone.

Just serviced the FITV from my wife's CRV. I have a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner and used that instead of elbow grease. A great way to clean the inside of parts.

The side of the FITV with the coolant hose fitting was completely clogged. I know the radiator in the truck was changed a while back, before I bought it, and I guess because it was clogged. No coolant was flowing through the FITV at all. Mystery of the crazy idle is solved

The ultrasonic cleaner did a great job on the rubber gaskets but they seemed a little dry. I used grey gasket maker in combination to make sure I have a good seal at reassembly. I should have bought new gaskets, but don't have time to work on the truck soon.

Great thread!
Great Pictures!

-V

UPDATE: No more crazy idle. Feels like the truck is a lot quieter now.

trucku

I was able to reuse the old gasket with some grey gasket maker. So far, no leaks or idle issue.

jdmtegx2o8

Thanks for the write up. My integra was fluctuating idle from 900-3000, and was extremely hard to drive in traffic. I pulled the iacv and cleaned that but it still had that annoying revving. Cleaned the fast idle valve today at my shop, it only took about 10 mins, car runs perfect.

sebTeggy

My idle is always at 1600 on a cold startup. Summer or winter. Im in Canada... So its never actually THAT warm.

I'm actually not sure what it should be at, this seems reasonable to me though, it warms up quick and idles at 750 like its supposed to.

95Sol99civic

So if I swap to a TB with out this valve will it be ok? I dont have a engine light on or anything. Its in my 97 civic with a Z6 and P28 ecu. Idles good when i first start it until it warms up

pisetup

Does a JDM D15B non-VTEC have an FITV?

USDM DC4™

Recently did this on my 94 ls teg, and wow!
Makes a massive difference, but then again the center port on mine was completly clogged.
My car would idle at 2.5k on start up and 1.5k after atleast 10 min of driving, never thought it could be the fitv. It actually has a big effect on how a obd1 b series idles, even at operating temp. Now my car starts cold at 1,250rpm and settles down to a steady 750rpm within a minute

Dcartstudios

So I've had a lumpy idle while the car warms up for a little while and just now when I turn on my defrost it changes the idle from the extra electric load I'm guessing and it shuts off like it can't keep it on. Maybe the lumpy idle problem and fitv are cussing this? It's never been cleaned or replaced as far as I know. And alternator changed twice but never the belt. Thanks for any help!

Musicninja007

_exact_ same issue that I had. Take out your FITV...clean 'er out, screw 'er down. Working wonderful now.

jayscivi

thank you for this write up i was completely lost and didnt know what it could be

vallejoda9

Sup yall. I'm new here. I recently cleaned my Fitv and iacv. I cleaned my iacv first and I still had a fluctuating idle. I then move on to clean my Fitv and I tightened it all the way down. Now my car just wants to die when I want to warm her up. How could I fix this? Any help is appreciated.

EFyew

just a quick question, this may have been specified earlier and i may have read over it but does anyone know where the FITV is located on a D15B DPFI intake manifold?

my goal in cleaning this is, yes to keep the idle from fluctuating after warming up but ... while setting the timing i notice that the timing marks move back and forthe. would cleaning the FITV fix this also?

lol my guess is yes, but i ust wanted to be sure

trucku

You tightened it down too much. Take it off and loosen it a few turns. Keep doing that until your vehicle idles properly.

SiCivicHB1993

This is a good post as well - just finished reading the one regarding cleaning/changing your IAC. I may try all of the above this weekend. My car revs at idle - earlier you listed all types of idling errors and im not sure which each of those mean but i can tell you that upon start up an idle my car revs from 1000 - 2000 then after it starts to get up to temp it may drop to 1000-1500 but it is always present and rather annoying. I also have no clue if it is ignition, coolant, fuel or vacuum related. My car has been sitting for at least a year but it did this before i parked it. I have bled radiator, cleaned k&n air filter and breather on valve cover, i also added a few gallons of fresh gas. Someone suggested a vacuum leak and asked if i heard a hissing sound and yes i do hear it loudly but that is my intake and possibly other things and finding a vacuum leak would be like finding a needle in haystack correct? Use smoke? Any help would be great!

vallejoda9

If you guys are still have a rough idle, try cleaning your egr valve and ports. Just another suggestion to help out.

MechEng

I cleaned the FITV and my hot idle went from 850 rpm to 750 rpm, not sure if this was from not having the plunger set to the same position as prior to cleaning or the fact that more air was able to move through the valve.

I ended up adjusting my idle to bring it back down to 750rpm. My question: should I take it apart again and screw the plunger in further? I didn't expect it to have an effect on the hot idle rpm. I'm concerned it isn't closing fully when warm and I shouldn't be compensating by adjusting the idle.

For those who are going to do it, you don't need to remove your strut bar. I didn't replace the gaskets and no leaks but I did put a very light coat of motor oil so they don't dry out. And yes it does work, I had a slightly lumpy idle but now it is rock solid.

MechEng

Crickets....

Anyone??? Appreciated

eg green

good I make DIY now

b20bFourDoorCivicLX

not trying to bring up an old thread but ive been really trying to figure out why my car idles so low during the day and at 900 during the night


morning idle when warmed up 600 ....at night 900


is that normal? it varys from 500/900



never to high....ive replaced alot of things on this car its a 1998 ek

mastat89

My bolts on my FITV are balled so i cant remove it, should i try backing it out and cleaning it while it is still connected to my intake manifold.

Teglover101

Good Write up!