davey5300

So I was changing the rotors, pads, passenger side Upper control arm, and drivers side lower ball joint on my 1991 Accord DX 2 door (F22A1), and now the car keeps dimming and dieing. The battery isn't charging from the alternator at all. I know the battery is good because when I charge it with the charger box, it starts up and runs like a champ till dims and dies, and I know the alternator is good because I had it tested, plus I also replaced it with another one I had laying around which was perfect before I pulled it out of my old accord. I don't know what else to check out. In case it means anything, when I changed the upper control arm, I had to move the fuse box out of the way. Any advice is appreciated because I'm real frustrated right now

beeseeries

Check voltage at the terminals while the car is running. If it is receiving a minimum of 14 volts, the battery can't hold a charge and needs to be replaced.

However if the car dies while it is running, this is typically a sign of a bad alternator. Report back after you've tested the voltage the alternator is generating while the vehicle is running.

poorman212

When doing the right/pass side arm, did you happen to move the fuse panel?

gregp09

I would say davey, check all your connections at the fuse block. most likely if it was working before, then that means that something went wrong in that process. did you disconnect the battery before messing around with the fuse box? if not, you couldve shorted something accidently. if you did, then good. maybe its as simple as just some wires not hooked up, or a blown fuse.

poorman212

Guess I should learn to read better. The OP stated they moved the fuse box and I skipped right over that....gregp09....thanks

davey5300

Well after long hours, changing the alternator again and a new battery, I finally figured it out!!!! The was a loose wire in the big wire harness that comes from where the ECU is. The wire was black and yellow

jaysonant2

hey whats up davey5300 i have a 1995 accord wagon witch i did a h22 swap the car was running fine up to about a week ago i put both a new batt n alternator then the same problem u had im having both items r good but when i turn the car on n i take off the batt terminal the car shuts off where exactly did u find the problem on the wire was it behind the fuse box or under the dash by the computer cause now that u mention about the fuse box i did take it out also when i replaced the arm n i also took it out when i did the lowering springs so if u could tell me exactly where the wire runs so i could save some time n headach or if theres maybe a relay or fuse thati may have over looked

holmesnmanny

The black and yellow should go through the shock tower connectors.

rudis_nartiss

hey.. Ive got same problem but i couldnt understand how you solve it.. could you send a picture with that wire problem?

Foxyhondagal

Had the same problem 2 years ago, with about 18 mo. on a 60 mo. Honda battery. Figured it was the charging system, but it checked out OK. The battery was bad. Nwe 60 mo. battery replaced under warranty. No problems, until now, with about the same amount of use on the battery, I'm having the same problem. I'm wondering if Honda had a bad batch of batteries? Car starts with a jump, but is dead in 2-3 days if I don't drive it. Mine doesn't die when running, so maybe you have a loose ground?

Sherilynstitt

I am literally having this same problem with my 2002 Honda Accord vtech,I hadn’t driven it in like 6 weeks due to a knee injury and within the first week of driving it died on me ..in the middle of the city I’ve never had this happen before so I thought it was the battery ,I bought a new one ,but I barley made it home (60mes )on that battery…
so I replaced the alternator the next day and bought another brand new battery ,and my car just drained the battery again ….I’ve replaced the battery and the alternator but the car just keeps draining the battery !
Could it be a loose wire or a blown fuse ?