BanzaiBeast

Hey guys,
Has anyone had one of these things apart?
What will be involved with making the key smoothly insert into the ignition again?
If I end up purchasing a new switch/ignition cylinder how do I get the Key or Computer programmed to work together?
Thanks,
Greg

Duane_in_Japan

On your vehicle, is the key cylinder assembly just that, a key cylinder assy, or is it integral with the Remote Key Receiver, or does the receiver mount to the side of the ignition lock assy.

Some vehicles, you can hide the old key maybe within the steering column cover so its very near the Receiver and your new key will not need to be reprogrammed, I have seen people cut the handle part of the old key and glue it to the new key so the old Transmitter chip is kind of part of the new key now.

Otherwise, the dealer will need to reprogram your new key set, it also may be possible to do it yourself, and this is why you are asking for help, YES. Sometime you do a self reprogram such as, get in the car, insert key, lock unlock the door x amount of times and you are done, repeat for up to three new keys maximum.

Lets see what the other guys say.

lazlong

Knew you could do that with the key fob but, didn't know you could do it with the key too.

BanzaiBeast

Thanks for the initial input.
The first thing I will need to get taken care of is getting the key into the ignition where it will operate the car. Sometimes it seems to go all the way in, but it doesn't turn the car on, (it's like I'm jamming the wrong key in). Any thoughts to solve this issue?

I hate to sound dumb, but can you spell it out in steps where even a monkey like me can follow the procedure.

Thanks,
Slow Greg

Targa250R

Yet another sidewinder lock cylinder bites the dust. I've been seeing a lot of problems with those in Odysseys, CR-Vs, and Civics.

You'll need a new ignition lock assembly, as the key cylinder itself is not available separately. Most dealerships can re-code the new cylinder to work with your existing keys for an additional charge.

Unfortunately, the part alone costs over $230. Labor to install is additional.

You can't reprogram a Honda key without special tools (Silca transponder programmer for T5 keys, or HDS tablet for fob keys). If the keys are the original factory '03 Odyssey keys, they cannot be reprogrammed at all because they are read-only. Only T5 duplicate keys have rewritable transponders.

Your existing keys will work fine anyway if you have the new cylinder re-coded to work with them - no immobilizer transponder programming is necessary.

BanzaiBeast

Update:
Ordered a whole new lockset for the Odyssey - Ignition w/switch, glove box, two door, and tail gate from Majestic for $289 shipped. Arrived on time and with three keys - two ignition and an uncoded door key.
Checked with my local Honda Service Center and was told the service procedure. I changed the ignition switch, pigtail, and cylinder. They gave me the immobilizer override instructions so I can drive the car to the dealership for service. They will recode the system to accept the new keys for $41.

The Immobilizer Override code is a series of numbers. You pump the brake to input the code - sounds goofey doesn't it!
The key goes into the unlocked position 1.
Turn the key to the locked position 2, then to the "dash indicator lights" position 3.
Press the brake pedal the number of times for the first code digit.
Turn key back to position 2.

Turn key back to position 3 and pump the brake pedal the number of times for the second code digit.
Turn key back to position 2.

Press the brake pedal the number of times for the third code digit.
Turn key back to position 2.

Turn key back to position 3 and pump the brake pedal the number of times for the fourth code digit.
Turn key back to position 2.

Turn key back to position 3 and pump the brake pedal the number of times for the fifth code digit.
Turn key back to position 2.

Now, turn the key all the way to the start postion and it should fire up. If it doesn't, you have to start all over. After it is started and is running, you can turn it off and restart it within ten minutes without having to dick with that procedure again.

If you run down the battery, things are a pain in the ***....trust me!

Allen659

Hi Bonzai,


Exact same issue with my 2003 Odyssey, down to the last key that will successfully unlock the ignition. Also have a driver's side lock that will not accept any key. Can you give me a part number for the kit you bought and some basic info on how to do the job, PDF web instructions, etc...? My non-dealer mechanic is not experienced with Odysseys and I think I'll end up having to spend more money than at the dealer to have the work done. Was that Majestic Honda you bought the part from...in Lincoln, RI? Thanks for any info you can provide.


Allen

BanzaiBeast

Hey Allen,

The Haynes manual I have was pretty accurate for all the little details on taking the doors apart and getting at the rear lockset. The diagrams on the Majestic website are good for telling exactly how the parts come together.

The System/Component page for Majestic is COMBINATION SWITCH. You will need to pick out the correct Cylinder Set to "match" the glovebox plastic. My car is the Sage Green with a grey leather interior - Part No. 06350-SOX-A51ZB for $264.71 plus shipping.

Taking the steering console upart is pretty straight forward. Take the lower dash panel and the left kick panel out. You do have to unbolt the fuse block, the ignition connector goes in on the fender side. The "Break Head" Bolts that hold the ignition cylinder have to be removed. The manual says to drill them and use an EZ-Out. There isn't enough room for a drill. There is barely enough room for the Dremel I used to make a slot and unscrew them. The wiring does not have any extra length, shoot some photos with your phone to refer to as you are wiring things back up.

The locks in the doors are a bitch, I would rather pound my nuts with a mallet than learn this again! To save you some aggravation, get an inspection mirror and a small light. You will need a hook like a seal puller to remove the clip holding the lock cylinder in the door. The manual tells exactly how to take the door panel out. Pull the 1" round cover behind the lock, this will let you pull the third 10mm nut holding the door handle in place. Being able to wiggle this does help, so does spraying the cylinder clip with silicone lube. You can see the back side of the cylinder sticking out of the metal frame for the handle. The clip is behind the metal frame with the loop hanging down. Work the hook through the clip and pull down. You may get lucky, but I had to mess with this for several minutes before it came loose. With a little lube, everything goes back together very quickly.

The tail gate comes apart just like they say in the manual. The cylinder is likely to be corroded, but the retaining bolt is all that keeps it in line. Removing the bolt will allow you to twist the cylinder. The hole in the steel is not round, it has notches that match up to the cylinder body. It will go back together very easy. Spray all the moving latches with lithium grease.

Good luck, I hope this helps!

soundquest

This is what he is talking about IN THE PREVIOUS POST, having to Dremel slot the blank head fasteners to remove the ignition cylinder assembly. PITA, but definitely doable because the bolts aren't on so impossibly tight.


What I would like to know is whether or not the original wiring harness (the entire pigtail) can be used instead of having to pull the entire thing out and rerouting the new one that comes with the combo switch. I discovered that if you just unscrew the two screws that fasten the harness point to the assembly, you physically can just plug the new one right into it. At least in theory. The only thing that would prevent this from working is if somehow the old harness was digitally mated to the combo switch by receiver/transponder but that would seem a bit like overkill to me. CAN ANYONE CONFIRM WHETHER OR NOT THE ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS CAN BE USED? THANKS.

soundquest

Are you saying that the combo switch that I just bought from Majestic (which came with two new keys) requires no programming once I get it installed if I use it with the two keys that came with it? Also, are you saying my old set of keys will work with this new combo switch if I have the new transponder reprogrammed? That would imply that my old keys and my new keys were cut with the same pattern. You lost me.

Also, now that I have my old combo switch removed, anyone know how I can remove my old key from the cylinder without having to cut/drill?

soundquest

ANYONE? Seriously.

BUMP.

Targa250R

Yes, you can reuse the original ignition switch contact/harness assembly.

I'd personally replace it though, especially for as often as they tend to fail. It's not difficult, doesn't take much extra time to do, you already have the part, and you've already completed the majority of the labor required to reach it.

No.

No.

The key must perform two functions for the engine to run: It must have the correct cut to turn the ignition switch lock cylinder, and it must have the correct program to correspond with the immobilizer system. Both of these functions are required for the engine to run; if one of these is missing, then the car won't start.

You have two options when changing the ignition switch lock cylinder: Use the new keys that came with the new lock (correct cut, incorrect program), or re-use the original keys for the vehicle (incorrect cut, correct program). Both options require additional work. To use the new keys, the immobilizer system must be reprogrammed with an HDS tool to recognize the programs contained in the new keys. To re-use the old keys, the new ignition lock cylinder must be re-coded to fit the cut of the old keys.

If Honda sent out reprogrammable T5 keys with the new lock cylinders, then the keys could be reprogrammed with a key transponder programmer tool instead of having to reprogram the immobilizer system with an HDS. However, since Honda sends out read-only keys with the new lock cylinders, this isn't a concern.

Good luck.

soundquest

Good advice Targa, I appreciate it.

Regarding having the immobilizer reprogrammed, one of the above posts by BanzaiBeast has instructions for temporarily bypassing the immobilizer to allow for a new ignition cylinder and a trip to the dealer to get the immobilizer reprogrammed -- this is all that is required to get the car running after the new combo switch is installed? Also, I read something about having the correct color combo switch but I believe that to be in error as far as the combo switch is concerned and applies only to the other lock cylinders. Is this correct? Thanks again for your help, I truly appreciate it. This post is now becoming very complete and detailed for individuals that run into this problem in the future thanks to everyone's contribution, especially Banzai and Targa.

soundquest

.

soundquest

GOOD NEWS, BAD NEWS (SORTA):

I have the new combo switch completely installed but of course now I need to have the ECU reprogrammed for the new immobilizer and key.

I just now learned I need to actually call the stealership to get the immobilizer override code (5 digit code) to enter it in manually by brake pedal (not e brake correct?) according to the instructions banzai posted that he got and used from his Honda dealership.

MY FIRST QUESTIONS IS...

Are locksmiths able to perform this procedure (some locksmiths anyway that have the right equipment)?

SECOND QUESTION...

I have read some procedures that say you need to have a unprogrammed key to perform this and other procedures that mention nothing of the sort... SO WHICH IS CORRECT? DO I NEED ONE OR NOT?

THIRD QUESTION...

Do I need to physically have my poor van towed all the way to the stealership in order for them to provide me with the override code? Or will they accept "sufficient proof of ownership over the phone?

Thanks for the help guys and I will let you know how it turns out. When I am all done, I need to put up a post with some helpful hints that will help others significantly with this most worthy task. Thanks again for all the help guys.

soundquest

Okay, now I could really use your help.

We got the override code in and we can ignite now, however the engine when it does start will only run for 2 seconds at the most and then turn off immediately. Very strange. Is this some secondary security feature at play here? Could this behavior has something to do with the fact that the battery was run dead during the replacement of the ignition/combo-switch?

Could really use your help guys. Thanks.

burrii

Don't know if this place is only for DIUers but we have the same problem. No keyless entry so key wore down, which wore down locks. I am now only able to get the key in the back latch and yesterday I was unable to turn the key in the ignition. My husband's key is having the same issue AND he cannot use his key to get into any door. Our car people (not dealership) suggested troubleshooting by first getting a new key to rule that out. Spent $56 for the key. Did not get the car towed or have the key programmed. New key opened the back latch and had trouble getting in the ignition. I was able to get it in once or twice and it did turn but putting the old key next to it, I was not able to start the car. Think everyone now agrees the lock set needs to be replaced. My husband isn't a car guy and wouldn't have the time even with good instructions so it's the dealership for us. BUt I was thinking to save money we could just replace the driver's side lock and the ignition lock. Does that make sense? I have not asked how much to purchase the whole lockset but only have those two installed. Thinking now it might be handy to have the other ones if/when we ever sell and maybe they mark them up if sold separately. We were quoted $276 + tax just for the ignition lock (NOT including labor). Can we purchase online or somewhere the lockset and supply it to the dealer? Is there a way to have the key I bought today programmed to match the new locks we buy or should I just forget about it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm having it towed to the dealer tomorrow if I don't have alternatives! THANKS!

Mr_Limo

I just went through this whole procedure, and everybody's input was a great help. The one thing I did not have was a Dremel, and didn't wan't to have to go buy one, so I kept researching... A great way to remove the 'shear' bolts that I found was a hammer and an awl. The bolts are not made of the strongest metal and the awl will pierce them. A few taps on the hammer and the bolts spun right up.

Also, a great video I found was here - it's not exactly the Odyssey, or even the right year, but a lot of the instructions are very similar:

http://youtu.be/UAREADz7BMA

Thanks all for your help, and good luck to those in the future that have to go through this!

LesN

I need advice.

On my 2003 Odyssey they changed the ignition lock when it went, under warranty. They would not key it the same as the doors, and left me with 2 sets of keys, old one for doors, new one for ignition.

As the wrong key got put in the doors too many times, I believe it accelerated wear, regardless now only the rear door lock works, and I fear it soon will seize as well.

Can I get new locks for the doors keyed to the ignition lock, and go back to a single key? Can I buy it like this, or can I do it myself?

Thanks

Hillsboro Locks

The Honda Ho001 high security lock fail!

Most of these vehicles with failed locks are out of warranty so repairs are expensive. I have the replacement lock cylinders for them because I have replaced so many of them. There is nothing that can remedy the problem without replacement. Door locks and ignitions have to be re-coded to the key which means that tumblers are set according to the profile of your sidewinder key. Re-installed back into the vehicle will give you about another 5+ years before they will have to be replaced again.

I replace at least 8 per month here at our shop.

hammergjh

I just went thru this issue at the dealer, they did all the work. Symptom was the key barley fits in the ignition and I can't turn it, so I am unable start the car w/o close to 15 minutes of fiddling w/ the key. They replaced the ignition lockset, reprogrammed 2 new keys that only fit in the ignition and start the car. Cost, $925. Nice.

BanzaiBeast

To save $600, I would spend the afternoon again switching the locksets out myself.
Spending that much on a car with 184k on the odometer makes it hungry for more.
Greg

Ken Ungaro

Great great write up Targa. The video really helped as well. Here's a photo of my ignition cylinder components from my 2004 Odyssey. My question involves the cylinder by itself. If I bring over all of the other electronic components onto a new cylinder assembly, will the old key (with the matched chip) still be electronically picked up if it is on my key ring even though the new key will be turning the new cylinder?

Sincerely,

Ken

JGGiant

I would like to give a big thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion.

This thread saved me a TON of money. To get by even cheaper, I pulled the cylinder out and removed all of the "pins." Now ANY key will turn the switch, but only the right one will start the car. Total cost $0.

I know it is not ideal, but I can live with it to save all the money and headache of programming new keys.

danhammock

[QUOTE=JGGiant;47774139]I pulled the cylinder out and removed all of the "pins."

How difficult is it to remove the pins from the lock?

I have done this before on a Dodge Truck. I actually removed the pins, cleaned them and reassembled the lock and it then it worked fine. Did you have to remove the "Break-head" bolts to get to the pins? Did the pins appear dirty or were they damaged? I have considered spraying the lock with carb cleaner then blowing it out with an air compressor but I don't want to make the problem worse. It appears the mechanical and electrical parts of the lock are separated so it should work. I believe my problem is sticking pins. I sometimes have to swap between the grey and black key to get it to work (I carry both).

Has anyone found a place that sells just the pins / tumblers for the lock?

FYI, I found a locksmith on eBay that will rebuild the lock for around $100. I also found just the ignition lock assemble for around $180 on eBay.