candy eg

I'm trying to install my 4ohm version 12'' alpine type r with my rockford fosgate 800a2 amp. i was told that this was the 800watt version but i'm not sure if it might be the 1000a2 since the badge fell off. (pics below) and if it matters, the box is sealed.

-I want to know what would be the best way to hook it up and have the type r run at it's rms of 500watts.

-how much should my gain screws be turned up?

-if my crossover switch should be LP, FULL, or HP?

-what should my crossover frequency? be it goes from 80-210hz.

-how much the bass punch **** should be turned up?

I have been reading that since its a 4ohm dvc sub, it can only be hooked up as 4ohm or 1 ohm and that leaves me with 4ohm since this amp is not 1 ohm stable. is this true or can the sub be hooked up as 2ohm?

I am a noob so please excuse me if i'm not using the correct terms and such but after 2 blown subs, i am ready to wire this one up correctly! thanks in advance. and if you can please try to answser all my questions..

I was just gonna hook it up like how this crutchfield diagrams illustrates:

dohcvtak

iTrader: (1)

RMS Power at 4 Ohms 200 W x 2
RMS Power at 2 Ohms 400 W x 2
bridged @4 ohms 800x1
your options are limited..
dual 4 ohm sub yields 8 ohm or 2 ohm your thinking of the dual 2ohm coil
it doesnt seem like u can bridge the sub since its rated for 4 ohms...
so your options are limited...

candy eg

i'm lost. so if i hook it up like how the diagram i posted above is.. it would be 800watts going to the sub since the sub is wired as 4ohm and the amp would be bridged and u posted that the amp spec is 4ohm bridged 800x1? so if i leave the right/left gain on the amp at 1/2 way. that would mean 400watts would be going to my sub, right? or does it not work that way.

dohcvtak

iTrader: (1)

...if u hook it up exactly i mean exactly like the diagram your sub is going to be at 8ohm(wired in series) and your amp will be pushing about 400? bridged.. i suppose it will work just not what it is capable of and far safer than trying to run 2ohm parallel on a amp that is rated for 4ohm bridged....
to tap the 800w ull have to have a dual 2ohm sub (which u dont have) wired in a series to a 4 ohm load and bridge at the amp
and no the gains does not work that way... gains are used to match the preout of your source unit(head unit)

edzy

That's old school rockford

It should be 2 ohm stable

wire it up 2 ohms and see how it works

candy eg

thanks for clearin that up. i have an alpine cda-9884 deck and the subw level goes to +15 max. where should i leave the right/left gains to have it pushin that 400watts?

mrdeadman

If it doesn't have a protection circuit and he does this, he could potentially overheat it and cause the transistors/etc to fail.

mrdeadman

If you want it really loud, you are going to need to get a more powerful amp or the dual 2ohm type r. If you overdrive the amp so that it sends a clipped signal to the sub, it will "blow" the sub..

dohcvtak

iTrader: (1)

hmm iono what does it say in the back power or punch...
im not a fosgate fan but i think the old power series should handle 2ohm bridged... dont quote me on this tho

candy eg

so if i hook it up exactly like the diagram i posted up with my right/gain level turned all the way up? i'll be pushing 400watts safely? i'm fine with it being at 400rms since i know it'll last. what should i do about these:

-if my crossover switch should be LP, FULL, or HP?

-what should my crossover frequency? be it goes from 80-210hz.

-how much the bass punch **** should be turned up?

candy eg

well the only power or punch on the amp is the "bass punch" **** setting, so i'm guessing its a punch.

dohcvtak

iTrader: (1)

no... dont turn the gain all the way up... gain is not volume.. yes at 400wrms @8 ohms it will will be safe.. although it will not hit as hard as it should...
crossover switch LP
crossover frequency in between 60-100hz is a good sub range any higher and ull get into the midbass range which isnt this sub's specialty
its up to u if u want to try 2ohm or not...
ultimately its your choice

candy eg

o ok thanks. one last detail please. haha, i know its annoying. where exactly should i leave the gain? 1/2 way, 3/4 way?

dohcvtak

iTrader: (1)

hmm iono how well a 8ohm configuration deals with a over worked amp sending clipped signal.. but i would assume it would be the same as with any other speakers so to be safe i would say no more than half... but ill let someone else chime in on this...

mrdeadman

As far as setting the gain:
http://www.installer.com/tech/gains.html
I found this to be a good reference...

fcm

Old, ["some cassettes"] but just as true today, with CDs and MP3 and so on.

Good find, saving it to favorites so I can cut and paste.

I would not use the x-over in the amp, better to use the one in the HU, you do know this HUs capability, right??? [x-over, both parametric and graphic EQ, time correction IMPRINT and so on]. 94

candy eg

my head hurts.. =( i'm lost. i have the alpine cda-9884 deck. all i know is that there is a subwoofer level and i leave it at +15. right now the right/left gain and the bass punch **** are all set to 3/4. it sounds decent but i wish it hit a tad bit harder. thanks for all the help guys!

ken9

Don't use your bass boost because it going **** the woofer...A.K.a the voicecoil..

edzy

i think it only has those features with the imprint add on

cstone

the specs i found for that amp are as follows:
200w x 2 @ 4ohm
400w x 1 @ 4ohm
400w x 2 @ 2ohm
800w x 1 @ 2ohm

You should wire the sub to give you 2ohm impedance and bridge the amp. Like this:

The only difference is that the amp will need to be bridged like in the picture you found. Since it is not a mono amp.

This will give you 800w at a 2 ohm impedance (which your amp is stable at)

YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE THE GAINS ON THE AMP OR THE SUBWOOFER SETTING ON YOUR HU TURNED ALL THE WAY UP EVER!!!!! When gains are too high the amplifier will create clipping which will in time blow your sub. My guess is that your subwoofer setting shouldn't be set to more than 7-12, the gain on your amp should be less than half way probably, I would say probably close to a third of the way from all the way down. These settings are just a guess because it is impossible to say where they should be exactly without being able to tune the system in person. Every HU, amp, and sub is different so unless someone has experience with your exact system I don't think anyone will be able to get much closer than the guesses on tuning that I have given.

candy eg

can someone agree with this before i go ahead and do it? if i'm getting 800watts after wring it like this. how do i make sure i'm ony running the sub 500 watts rms because i do no want to blow it.

edzy

it won't blow

those subs can take a beating

fcm

IMPRINT yes, it needs the PXA-H100, the others are on-board... http://dl.owneriq.net/5/58a5b847-40d...5dcac29113.pdf 94

cstone

props for asking for a second opinion i am confident that i am right but its your stuff so its always good to get more than one opinion if you really dont know

mhart

wow,some bad info in here. i have owned 4 800a2 and they usually make around 1080 watts at 2 ohm bridged, all old RF amps would play at 2 ohm, they will get hot but i have never seen one blow up from that. now if it is a 1100a2 it will make around 1500 watts at 2 ohm. i would wire it up at 8 ohm to be safe or do it at 2 ohms and keep the gains low.