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#1 | |||||
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PORTLAND OREGON
Posts: 18
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NSX Launch, IN, USA
Posts: 1,129
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It sounds like maybe your throw out bearing is going bad or your clutch is down to metal.
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#3 |
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Member
1990 Honda CivicJoin Date: Oct 2005
Location: 562 SoCal
Posts: 2,129
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#4 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: U WANNA KNOW?
Posts: 177
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good luck, i just got a new clutch and flywheel in my d15. it was fun!
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#5 |
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Junior Member
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if its makin noise as you depress the clutch...then yea id say the throwout bearing is bad since its only spinnin when you press the clutch. just curious, whos your mechanic? i see alotta posts where ppl say that their mechanic says it may be blah blah... lol..mechanics round me know NOTHING bout hondas..diesnt matter, i do all my own engine work anyways..
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Upstate new york
Posts: 26
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if you cant do your own work buy a stock car and keep it that way.
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#7 |
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Junior Member
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NSX Launch, IN, USA
Posts: 1,129
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Well you lie. Oh well, most of the people from NWI can't help themselves even though they think they can...
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#9 |
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Junior Member
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Oh snap...
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1991 Honda CRX HF/LS |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
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haha there was a shop called the import doctor or some shit like that..i called bout a timing belt cause i didnt have time to do it myself and they said.."sorry we dont do hondas"....wtf
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#11 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PORTLAND OREGON
Posts: 18
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well i think you all have very interesting views about other HT users. However i am "doing my own work"im dropping my tranny with my brother tomorrow morning. i have researched it fairly well. this is my first time removing my transmission. i have not came to an exact conclusion to what the exact problem is but to be safe i am replacing clutch , Flywheel pressure plate and throw out bearing. i am only droping my tranny my father is gonna help me install the components and assure i put it back together correctly. if anybody has any tips for safe efficant removal let me know. things to make it easier. and ofcourse thank you everyone for your help!!!
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#12 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PORTLAND OREGON
Posts: 18
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oh. and my mechanic is a portland local. worked for drag tech, now works for Race dezign ( discount auto source now) anyways he is a very respectable guy. Did my swap in a very timely manner and for a great price. I know him personaly so he did my swap in his own garage. i am young and still learning about mechanics of cars and how to do work myself which im sure at some point you were at. again thanks for insight
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#13 |
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Member
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good luck with it all. j/w, what part of portland are you in?
__________________
Build Thread - My 88 ED6 WTB - Two ls meshies, with or with out tires. not four, just two |
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#14 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: martinsburg, wv, us
Posts: 51
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do you have air tools at wherever you going to be doing this? cause i tell you... the mean the world of difference when attempting to get the main flywheel bolts off.
also.... dont buy any parts until you find the problem. just cause you would like to replace the clutch to be safe... doesnt mean it needs to be replaced... nor the flywheel. you can get a flywheel resurfaced for far cheaper than to replace it. if your clutch is not oil soaked.. and still looks good... no need to change it. but hey.. its your car.. your money... you do what you think you have to... im just saying... investigate the problem before you buy parts. |
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#15 |
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Junior Member
1998 Honda AccordJoin Date: May 2008
Location: Greeley, Co, USA
Posts: 83
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Make sure you allow a lot of extra time for all the work, and have a place to store everything. I hope you have a garage you can use. Always expect the worse and for more things to go wrong like stripped threads and broken parts/tools. Remember that if you think it will take however long it will usually be double that, especially if it's the first time you've done it. Best of luck and I hope things work out, keep us posted. Also air tools are over rated (however useful), hand tools are where it's at
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#16 |
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Junior Member
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replacing the clutch now....will save you alot of trouble takin the trans off when it goes out later....
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#17 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PORTLAND OREGON
Posts: 18
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so today was a very long day! i did not get the tranny on the ground like i hoped to. Although im about 7 bolts away. i ran into many problems from the driver side axle bracket to not having the 8mm punch to get the shift linkage out. but i found ways to work them all out. all of my mount bolts were tightened with a air gun so trust when i say they were a bitch. now i only hav the rear mount to take out. do i need to pull the whole mount or what bolts do i pull? there is almost no room and it makes me very flustered. my cable to hydro mount is also giving me issues. it was a very interesting day and hope tomoroow i can get someone with more honda wisdom to help me set it down. i am doing it in a little tin shed thank god cause it started raining. if anyone has any pointers to getting that rear mount out let me know. i will post pics when i get inside!
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#18 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 204
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ive done this, just put a new tranny in my b16 hatch. you need to pull the pass side axle, front cross member, and unbolt the rear mount from the engine/tranny (leave it bolted to the frame), also remove the radius arm it will all be in the way. you dont have to take out the center axle(cant remeber the right name) but getting the shaft back into the tranny is a pain if you dont. it took me about 4 hours to replace my tranny using only hand tools and a friend. and as for the linkage pin, use a c-clamp to press it out or simply drop the tranny with the linkage attached.
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#19 | |
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Junior Member
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Quote:
how the hell would you even get an impact in there to use it on the mount bolts? lol and yes..unbolt pass side radius rod. shit will be right in the way.unbolt the rear trans bracket from the trans and leave it attatched to the rear crossmember. cable to hydro mount? as in top of the trans? that should be the easiest one... and just remove both axles...its way easier. not sure why youd wanna leave one still installed anyways |
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#20 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: martinsburg, wv, us
Posts: 51
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if you have the means to do it... its a million times easier to pull the entire engine and trans as a whole through the top... rather than removing suspension items... just unplug everything... and unbolt all the all the mounts from the car... and right up and out it comes...
honestly... takes less than an hour with the help of another person... my bro did it to his DOHC ZC in 45 min by himself. |
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