ssinani

Hey guys..looks like ill be goin H series on my 88crx!....been reading countless articles for the h22 in an ef and came up with not too much info. Was wondering if anyone can let me know if this info is correct or is missing some things, or give me any pointers to watch out for. My main concern is the axle assembly. all the mix and matching. I know hasport sells a pair for about $300usd + shipping. The mount kit is pretty expensive also. Hasport is recommended by some but apparently the engine sits too low for hood clearance issues. Other than the engine/tranny/ecu/stock wiring from prelude and mounts my list is as follows...whatever im missing please let me know, as i would like to know what im getting myself into before i get the swap.

88-91 Crx obd0-obd1 jumper harness
88-89 Integra drivers axle
88-89 Integra passengers axle with accord inner joint and 88-89 integra outer joint.
F series midshaft/halfshaft from an EX or LX accord
90-93 Accord or 92+ Prelude cable shifter assembly with cables

now what intermediate shafts will i need?

anyone know where i can get the hydro-cable conversion kit?

also will the motor/tranny mount kit bolt straight to my stock chassis or will i have to modify them as well? I know the drivers side bolts on correctly, but not sure of the other 2 mounts..

any info will greatly be appreciated...

thanks

Sarmen

grunt2001

here man i have been in the process of this swap for 9 months now hasport makes great mounts but in my opinion go with ESP mounts you will get hood clearance the hood will shut completely.with their mounts you get cable conversion,traction bar, all mounts and alt bracket, you will need a traction bar because the engine will not clear the front, also you will need a single drive crank pulley i opted with UNORTHODOX it was 186.00 shipped ecu you can use a p13,p28 chipped,p06 chipped or p72 chipped if you buy the ESP KIT you can order the axles from RAXLES 169.00 a piece

mounts/traction bar setup..........780.00
single drive crank pulley 186.00
axles 338.00

misc.............


just to let you know you will need the intermedite shaft from a 1990-1993 accord, also if you use a h22a4 from the type sh prelude you will have to make a custom bracket for the midshaft also the sh has a ATTS on the tranny so you will need to get a non sh tranny good luck bro you will have to cut off the passenger mount and re-weld the new mount in

ssinani

Thanks for the all the info bud..always good to hear from someone thats done the swap!
ive heard this problem with hasport mounts..i have the sir front so im not sure if that would help the hood to close, but again its much more expensive than esp. My best bet would be to go with ESP for the mounts. they seem to set the engine pretty back just enough for the intake manifold to clear the firewall so you get room up front by the headers.
Now the engine is the type s prelude, h22a. Do i still need to make a custom bracket for the midshaft? or cut and reweld the passangers axle?

Thanks again for the help..

grunt2001

as long as the engine is not an sh you are good, yes you will have to reweld or bolt in the passenger mount.You will have to remove the stock passenger mount, bolt the new mount on trannya nd raise into position the bolt in or weld .As far as the sir front end (thats what i have) use the esp mounts and you definitly will not have clearance issues the only spot that is close is the im near the brake booster,Ialso forgot to mention on the rear crossmember you will have to heat and bend a section so you can have access to the drain plug to tranny any question dont hesitate to ask

crx22

Number one on the list....patience (in good quanity)

I have the hasport mounts, axles, and hydro conversion.

Not sure how much room you have under the sir hood but I had to make one to clear which turned out really well. I would rather make a hood than drag the pan.

This is a pretty involved swap not your average meeee tooooo gsr or b18 swap. Lots of cutting and fitting. Be able to run a welder and cutting torch.
I also used a air hammer quite a bit with a flat head bit in it to clearence stuff instead of cuttin it out. Just apply heat and it moves pretty easy.

This is my second time I've put this thing in a car and this time I am running a/c and a skunk2 intake. Its madness how close it is with the skunk2 intake....I don't think you can move the firewall any more than I have. Or dent in the brake booster for that matter.

I really need to update my project thread....I'll dig it out in a few days.

vtecislife

do a b-series.. it was an easy swap for me.. i used innovative mounts with a hondata ecu..it fired right up..all i needed was a tune..but do as you please. although i haven't seen many h series in crx's.

clovis88crx

you dont see many h-series in a crx because they too much of a headache!

DCRB

yeah but they sound SICK and look awsome when done. i'm considering doing an h series swap in one of my hatch's... bump for this guy!

ssinani

THanks for the heads up! ive been tought about the b swap but i would rather spend some extra time and get the h to fit in there. I know its a reall messy swap but its gotta be done! Im tryin to buy all the parts before hand so once i take out my engine i can install the new one and not have to worry about running out and buyin parts everyday.
Id love to see your cars buildups as well! crx22 sounds like u gota crammmed engine bay.hahah

thisiskev

its not that much of a headache. its just takes time. i have the esp mounts. the only con with esp is the engine sits real low in the engine bay.

H23vtecEF

This swap takes a lot of time and patience. I am currently working on a H23a vtec motor in my 91. The esp mounts are amazing and if you opt to get the other brackets with the kit, they help a lot. You need to weld the tranny mount to the frame, but its nice because you can get the best axle placement. If you have any questions on this feel free to ask, im trying to fire mine at the moment, but having some trouble. It looks so good in there and should be a beast for you. Have fun and take your time

H22ACRX

Hello,
I have done this swap in 2003, and my car is weekend driving till now, no mount kits were available that time, so I had to fabricate mine. I have done myself the whole wiring to ODB-1 P13.
Beside my car had passed into many phases, DOHC ZC(OEM), B16, and finally the H22A,also Tried the B18C1 on my cousin's EF. Each time I WOT I know myself that I had made the right decision to install this engine,you can feel the Torque, and how the car is accelerating like nothing compered to B16A and B18c1 "STOCK", with wings and aircraft shape throttle handle instead of shift stick you can say it is AIRBUS, :D ,kidding but you will push in the seats.
Before Installing I had heard that there will be weight issue, with gasfilled shock absorbers and 2" lowering performance springs, choosing good tires with compound and size , my car stick to the road more than I had expected, and remember you still have room for swaybars and polyurethane bushing "that will be my next phase".
As all the members are saying regarding time to install this setup, I 100% agree with them, mine took 3 months.
Inside engine bay clearance, as mentioned above should be aware from firewall behind intake manifold, brake booster, and crank pully "that time I milled the OEM pully and worked perfect", rear crossmember little clearance should be done, the front one was modified for headers clearance.
Adding front torque mount will definitly be positive step, mine was fabricated also, but faced fan clearance which I had solved by buying new fans and place them on the opposite face of the radiator.
Transmission end right(passenger) bottom side you might face tie rod clearance, which I had solved buy using Accord 91 automatic tie rod cause it has U bend in the middle,for sure had little fabrication to fit.
Axles had no problem in fitting as most who are using them now.
Now clutch has some pain, I used cable fabricated setup but the pedal was hard to step, so I made my own cable to Hydro conversion, it is fine, but I can't say that it is perfect, but I will tell you what I am in process now which may solve this problem for better and cheaper, my mechanic advised me to go into hydro pedal, so we searched and we came up with BMW E34 clutch pedal which had the oil pump fit inside vertically, that will help us much in the small room like the EF has, when It finishes I will inform you.
You might face a clearance issue with the alternator plugs, but not a problem at all.
Now the fun part to me was the electrical part, broke one OBD-0 ecu and took the female plugs, and did my own harness conversion, added the EGR, 4 wires O2, IAB sensord; extending the alternator,TPS, MAP,IAT sensors wires; the radiator hot water switch plug should be changed and relocated from the back of the D or B series block to the passenger side of the block under the intake cam.
Now regarding the VSS, I used Lower shaft of honda accord and the upper shaft from EF VSS, but while searching in Junk yards I found a JDM EF cluster with electrical speedo meter, so I changed the VSS to a whole Accord one and working perfectly.
Throttle cable should be changed ,I fabricated mine.
One problem I am facing is the ground clearance as my car sits low, but believe me it worth to have this engine even with this clearance issue.It is nice when you are playing with big guys like modified evo's, sti's, E36 M3's,small block light modified V8's with only stock H22 engine.
As for now I am in process of turboing my engine, my target is +-450WHP, but it is taking time to collect parts cause I am out of states, and I do lots of trails in my setup to see which is better.

I rate this swap as medium level ,not easy and cheap as B series nor hard and expensive as K series.

Sorry for this long post and thanks for you all, but I hope it might help you, and make you more convinced to install H22 in your EF.

Regards

whorehey

damn a h22 in a rex ***** gonna move.. but can it handle??

gibsanez

Don't even start with the typical "h22 is like 500lbs heavier than a B series" because it's not. The weight difference is negligable and easily made up with decent suspension.

2point2

I have my custom mount kit, hydro conversion kit and custom axles for sale if anyone is (seriously) interested. You're from Ontario Canada? I can help you every step of the way if you're not too far..

vikingo3

I just finished my H22A swap, but I have a little problem with the front suspension. I had lowering springs on my CRX when I bought it, and now with the new H22A it seats so low that the upper control arms hit the top of the wheel hole. I was wondering if I should use accord or prelude springs to hold the weight and also keep it low like the back.

Thanks

Dark_Teg

A fully assembled H22 and tranny vs a fully assembled B18 and tranny is right at 100 lbs. seen it with my own eyes.

If I was going for an all out all motor beast I would go with the H22. For just a suped up daily driver I gotta go B-series. Its HOT in texas I need AC! LOL

crx22

I have A/C on my H22 rex

ef_ftw73

you can have ac with the h, just needs to be custom haha
and im doing the h swap to

i went with ESP
this is how my motor sits as of now.

vikingo3

Do you have pictures of the custom A/C, cause I have all the pieces from when the D16 was in. Is not that hot in CA, but it will be nice to have it.

vikingo3

you guys with the H22A on the CRX, what do you use for a speedometer?

grunt2001

how is the rex coming along i stil;l have to buy axles and header im going with a hytech header, just finished my complete shave in the engine bay and new paint it look sik bro ,keep us updated as i will also

ESP.net

PM or Email with any questions regarding the EF H swap

caragan11

It sounds like you need to start considering some suspension set ups. I've been thinking about doing a H22A swap also. Have been trying to figure out a good spring rate combo that will not be so harsh on the street but can hold its own on the track.

What year/car is your H22A out of? Also, what mounts did you go with? Did you have any hood or oil pan clearance issues? I want to do the JDM H22A but not sure if I can BAR it here in California. It sounds like you just got your swap in, but are you going to BAR that beast?

theft24

esp mounts yea youl get hood clearance but no ground clearance.. id rather have my oil pan higher off the ground but thats me..
OP: i spent 500 for my mounts traction bar and cable/hydro conversion
also if you use an accord tranny you will have to take out one of the mount studs and drill and tap the other two holes for the tranny mount