Devon M

iTrader: (4)

I am getting ready to do my 90k mile service and I wasn't sure of when to change the oil pump, I searched but couldn't figure it out. Can anyone tell me when you are supposed to change the oil pump?

Here is a list of what I am doing, let me know if you think of anything else that is really important.

Tranny flush
Radiator flush
Oil change
Valve adjustment
Timing belt/tensioner
Water pump

Thanks.

Kr4nG

iTrader: (1)

mind as well do the oil pump when everything is gonna be opened up. you can also do a valve cover and oil pan gaskets they are cheap. assuming your doing the work yourself. dealer charges a lot of money. spark plugs and wires wont hurt it depends how recently you did them. how about some belts check if they are cracking.

98_R_1123

you will also need to change your front crankshaft seal, cam seals, belts, plugs, wires cap and rotor, fuel filter. you dont have to change your oil pump just make sure its is not leaking and to be safe you can change the oil pump seal. hondas are synonymous for having a leaky oil pan i would check that and definatly change it if it is leaking, and clean your oil pick up really well while the pan is off. thats all i can think of right now. if anything els comes up ill chime in.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

I want to do the work my self, I am pretty mechanically inclined and usually do maint. on my own. The only problems are a space to do the work and I don't know how to do the timing. Anyone in the Murphy, NC area that wants to lend a hand LMK.

Redcoupe

I have no idea on where Murphy, NC is.... I'm basically in Va Beach, Va.

I mean, you can replace the oil pump if you'd like to but I've continued to use my factory one for plenty of mines.

I've torn apart 160,000 mile B16a's that had been turbocharged and the oil pump was well within clearances from Honda and the gears showed no wear.

Then again, mine was fine on my R motor then the motor blew and I tore it apart to check it out and yikes, scores all over the place.

If you take yours off. Hit it with some brake cleaner to get it cleaned up, put it on the NC Honda forums/or on here and sell it for 60 bucks. I get a new one for around 90 to 100 bucks. Don't forget to replace the little o-ring on the backside of the pump.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

I am going to check out a few local shops to do the work for me, hate to do it that way but I don't know what else to do.

koji126

Here's from the maintenance list:

90,000 miles/6 yrs Scheduled Maintenance

Recommended service:

Replace engine oil.
Rotate tires.
Replace engine oil filter.
Check pads and discs for wear (thickness) and damage.Check calipers for leaks and check tightness of mount bolts.
Check parking brake adjustment. Should be fully applied within 6 to 10 clicks.
Check steering linkage for looseness.Check fluid lines for damage and leaks.Check condition of rack boots.
Check bolts for tightness.Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.
Inspect driveshaft for cracks and check boot bands for tightness.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). Check the master cylinder, proportioning controlvalve and ABS modulator for damage and leakage.
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks. If needed, add transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield washer fluid.
Check for damage, leaks and deterioration.Check for proper fan operation.
Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage, leaks, and tightness.
Inspect fuel lines and connections. Check for leaks.
Replace air cleaner element.
Inspect and adjust drive belts.
Replace spark plugs (if applicable).
Check valve clearance when engine is cold.
Replace brake fluid; use Genuine Honda DOT 3.
Replace transmission fluid; use Genuine Honda ATF or MTF.

nsxtasy

One thing that is not specified but which I recommend is replacing the cooling system hoses - definitely the two large ones (upper and lower radiator hose), and I think there are a few small ones that are optional. This is great preventive maintenance, and a good time to do it - not only because of the long interval (in time and miles) but also because you are already flushing the coolant anyway.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Sounds good, I would like to replace those with samco hoses if I replace them. I will have to see how it goes with the funds. I may wait to flush the coolant for another time. I called a local shop they want $250 in labor, I really want to do this myself but I am a little nervous.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Okay, so I called Acura and they said you don't have to change the T belt till 105k. Then I called another dealership and they said anywhere between 90k-105k. So I may delay this portion for a month or so. So I guess I will just do what they recommend at at 90k plus a couple other things that I need to do i.e. full fluids flush, and new thermostat.

If anyone would like to put input on the timing belt situation I would appreciate it greatly. Thanks.

nsxtasy

I hate it when dealerships give out wrong/incomplete information.

Here's the "official" recommendation from Honda, the one you can find if you look in your owner's manual and service manual. (You might try doing that, BTW. You might learn something - like the real answers to your questions. You DO have a service manual, right? You'll need it to do all this work on your car.)

On the '97 and '98, they recommend that the timing belt be changed after 90K miles or 6 years, whichever comes first.

They changed the recommendation so that on the '01, they recommend that the timing belt be changed after 105K miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.

I don't know whether the '00 recommendation is the same as the '97-98, or the '01.

Whatever year ITR you have, it is anywhere from 8 to 12 years old. If it has not already had the timing belt changed, it is overdue by anywhere from 1 year (for an '01) to 6 years (for a '97), even if you have not hit 105K miles yet.

Just change it. Especially if you're going to be doing a bunch of work on the car anyway.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, that clears things up alot. Looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet.

nsxtasy

Yeah, but keep in mind - once all this stuff is done, you won't have to do it again for a long, long time!

irev210

yah, a lot of people forget that after time the rubber just starts to rot/weaken, even with low miles.

even if your R has 10 miles on it, it should have had the timing belt changed, per honda maintenance schedule.


as for hoses, you should really inspect them for bulging/cracking around where the hoses slip over ports... big hose or little hose, if it breaks, you still have a major problem

nsxtasy

Yeah, that's why I recommended replacing them (or at least the big ones).

totsie7944

If you lived closer I'd do all this for free. If you've done it before you can pretty much do it all in about 5 hours with basic tools in your driveway. The timing is easy to do. Get a helms and you should be good man. If you need any specific help just PM me.

Go ahead and do the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, adjuster, seals, and all gaskets, and valve adjustment.

Stuff like brakes, rotors, calipers, plugs, wires, oil, etc should be part of your regular "checkups" you can do yourself on the car.

esponet

if i'm not mistaken the belts are the same part numbers. but before 00 recomendation is at 90k, after that, they recomend it at 105. rumor has it they did this so they (manufacturer) can claim no major maintenance until pass 100k miles. big selling point. from past experience i have not seen a honda oe belt last pass 110-120k miles. they usually brake around that time frame.

edit they are the same part number.
14400-P72-014, Timing Belt

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Okay, so I am doing it myself and I just want to make sure as far as the timing belt area that I have everything covered. I plan to change the oil pump seal on the crankshaft side, timing belt and water pump/gasket and coolant. Also debating camshaft seals. Those make me a little nervous because I am afraid I will accidently move them when I unbolt the gears. I don't plan to remove the oil pump and check it out. Is that a bad Idea? Thanks for all your continuous help. I appreciate it.

nsxtasy

On an ITR, if it's never been done before, the mileage interval doesn't matter; either way, it's overdue based on the time interval, overdue by anywhere from 1 to 6 years.