christian7750

Anyone know?

Redbone

as long as you upgrade the valvetrain i think its ok as long as u arent doing it every time you accelerate

infinitypro12

Does a bear crap in the woods? Ha ha, I suppose that it depends on how you stand on longivity. But as Redbone said and additionally, upgrades never hurt.

Drsexiestboy

You can but whats the point you wont actually make power past like 7900-8350 depending on upgrades and plus why take it there when it can hurt the engine...(im not being rude just saying)

blueg6

what he said

christian7750

I completely built the head, titanium springs and retainers, stage 2 cams, port and polish head, bigger valves, stainless steal valves, port intake, type r intake manifold. arp head bolts, head studs. Cp pistons. Hondata s100. But left the rods stock, so just wondering if its safe to rev it to 9000

JKov240

Not if they live in a zoo


I'm curious...why wouldn't you go ahead and get a set of forged rods?

christian7750

The stock rods are strong, just wondering if everyone here thinks so too

newtron63h

im with 240. after all that work, why not a complete forged bottom end?

honestly i would not go over about 8K on a stock crank and rods.

my first advice is to get a good quality bottom end kit from someone like eagle and have a good machine shop check all the parts(its surprising how many defective parts get shipped out), and balance it. depending on your TQ, i would have no problem turning a B16 with a matching top end to 10K. the lower the torque, the better i would feel about turning it that high as there is less stress on the parts.

also at that high RPMs, the rod journals stretch during the high rpms. they elongate........so engineers have designed bearings that are thinner at the sides so they dont contact the crank and cause failure.

this is more of a race thing, but if this is more of a race engine than a street engine, you might want to look into those bearings.

also if you are doing this you might as well strip the block down and let them look that over. line bore the mains, make sure the cyl bores are square and round, make sure the deck is flat and square to the mains. plus before doing all this, they will put it in a hot bath and clean ALL the crap out and off of it. the money spent now to make sure you have a good engine will save you money down the road.

one example of this is line honing the mains. they measure the roundness of the main bores AND they check to see if the main bores are all in line. if not they fix it. now if you give them a bottom end set and they balance it. they will also make sure that everything is straight. so if you put the straight crankshaft into the crooked main bores it should work just fine, no problems at all. BUT there might be a tiny bit of binding.....might not be anything you notice.

if you have them line hone the block then there will be NO binding. ive heard of some factory engines having an increase of about 10hp simply by line honing because the factory block is not that great.

just something to think about.

now ifyou dont want to spend the money on a bottom end kit, i would definitely pull the bottom end apart nd take it to a machine shop. MINIMUM have them check everything out, magnaflux all the steel and iron, clen, mesure, cheack for wear, out of round, straightness. thats MINIMUM. i would also recomend having them balance your existing bottom end. granted i dont think honda generally uses forged components, but cast will balance just fine as long as you arent trying to make too much power.

but honestly, with all the top end work, you really should do yourself a favor and get a forged bottom end kit, have it balanced, have the block checked and be done. as long as the assembly is defect free you will have one bullet proof engine.

christian7750

It's already been honed and have new bearings and polished the crank, its was bored .5mm over for 81.5mm cp pistons, so only thing i didnt do was get rods because I heard they are strong enough, but like I said was just wondering if this was true.

newtron63h

well im sure the pistons are fine, but the crank and rods are still factory cast pieces. not the best for high rpm or high power. they might be fine, i dont know. they also might fly apart the first time you take it that high. its impossible to say with out at least checking out your bottom end.

with a forged kit though, you will know for sure. think of it as an insurance policy for your engine. you have all the night stuff on top, a good bottom end is going to keep from potentially ruining the top end.

Unseen Racer

doing all those upgrades and not spending $296 for eagle rods is just some what stupid.
not trying to be rude

Adam_b16a

Im sure that it will handle 9k, but depending on how long is still to be answered. Stock rods will handle just fine, but balancing the rotating assembly will answer your question better than asking us if your motor will turn 9k safely.

gshatch

tune the car where it stops making power shift...

newtron63h

adam is telling no lies.

can it do it? probably so, how many times can it do it? no way to know. could be once, could be 9.8 million

jdm602

once you get towards 9k and above you are asking for trouble on the springs and rod bolts. but you have springs so your good there. get some arp rod bolts then you should be safe.

and to everyone thats saying why not go with eagle rods. well its almost 300 bucks shipped. which could be a lot to some...but the point is, stock rods can take a lot more than you think. people are making 500+ on bone stock rods. ive seen one put down 507 whp on the bone stock b16 with only pistons...yes just pistons.

oh and a girdle would help too.

edit: just curious is this built for boost or n/a?

christian7750

I got arp rod bolt btw. It's built for N/A

newtron63h

most brand new engines can handle quite a bit. the point we are trying to make is how long can these things handle that extra bit.

like i said before, its not about whether it will hold together, its about whether the rods will hold their shape and not deform to the point of bearings contacting the journal.

again also, why do all this, spend all this money on basically everything BUT the rods and crank. it makes no sense. sounds a little like russian roulette to me, ESPECIALLY when hes talking about turning it 9K.

the smart play is to get a complete forged bottem end, and have it balanced MINIMUM. but i would also advise getting the block completely checked out too. this is the only way to be sure that your engine is in good condition for pretty much anything you ask it to do.

christian7750

The bottom end has been checked out by a mechanic, he's the one that put it all together, i dont have it back yet, havent tuned it yet, I think I am eventually gunna get a b20 block, but im spending all the money on the head because i can move the head to a b20, I just bought pistons and rod bolt for the bottom end of the b16. I'm going to keep the b16 block for a while, but maybe in a year go for the b20. I didnt want to spend a ton of money on the block just to get a b20 down the road, know what i mean? I've put a couple grand in it so far.

newtron63h

well if thats your plan, id say leave the bottom end alone, dont go near 9K and leave it at that.

fast_4_door

i say that if it's arp'd you should be fine. we were pushing a b20vtec motor to 9500 on a complete stock bottom end with arp rod bolts with a fully built head and arp head studs. it'll handle it just fine. stock rods are just fine for your setup. and remember we were doing that on a b20 crank, much larger stroke than that b16. getting a crank girdle couldn't hurt. when you do get some arp main studs to hold that girdle in place.

jdm602

why do you keep saying that you dont know why he didnt go with forged rods or crank? cranks are good for like 700 wheel and rods can go for like 500 wheel. which i doubt he will be seeing those numbers anyway for an all motor car. its like buying something thats pointless just to have it...well in his setup at least. stock rods ftw!

boostesi

to be honest ive had 3 civics with d16z6 motors, all with 220k plus miles on them, and relentlessly bounced them off the rev limiters just because they were beater cars, and not one of them bent a valve or broke a rod, i want to say 7400RPM in my stock 92 SI w/245k and not a single mod, not even an intake. correct me if im wrong, i think that was were she bounced lol...

93egSLEEPER

i dont think its the rods you should worry about... its the ROD BOLTS that stretch and break under a load like that. you should have used some ARP grade 10 rod bolts, had the rods re-rounded and called it a day and turned 9k no problems. just cheap added insurance.

EDIT: missed a post above. if you had them re-rounded you should be fine. i ran my b16 to 8300 on stock everything and never had a problem for 35k miles... then i built a gsr for boost haha

jdm602

hey b16's love boost too.