WuBangerMac

Hi, I hope you guys can help me out. I have a stock 2003 honda civic lx with the 1.7 engine and auto tranz. I have changed the timing belt, water pump, plugs air filter and ALL 4 engine mounts over the last 2 years. I am the only owner. My problem started 2 or 3 years ago. the whole car started shaking slightly\running rough. 2 or 3 years ago it had a check engine light related to the evap system. I changed the egr valve and the light went out. but the car still shakes at Idle and through out the driving range. no check engine lights and the car recently passed emisions. like I said, I thought the culprit was my engine mounts, so I change all 4 of them over a period of a year ( they were all shot) with very little to no change. the vibration started softer years ago, now it has gotten worse. also the car seems to take a long time to shift. I think I have multiple problems going on. also I have an oil leak what looks to be from the valve cover on the passenger side. I recently change the valve cover gasket as well , but it still leaks. there is oil accumulating right below where the cam bolts in, could it be leaking there? also, I have checked the coil packs with a meter and they are all consistent with each other. I know I have thrown multiple problems out here, but any help would be appreciated. thanks.

lazlong

1st- check for more codes.

2nd- a lot of times part #6 is the one to change: http://stores.revolutionparts.com/ho...peed-automatic

3rd- Let me guess, it runs rough, has loss of power and bad MPG. I'm leaning towards the vehicle needing a valve lash adjustment. Honda says every 100K miles but, a lot of us have had to it 30-40K sooner.

WuBangerMac

Lazlong, so you are telling me that the plug at the end of the camshaft can leak oil? because that looks like exactly where it is coming from. so so do I have to take the cam shaft out to change it? if so do you know of a better manual that would have alerted me to that? also I will look into adjusting my valves. I have thought I have heard them knocking or pinging. but the Haynes manual says that they rarely need adjustment. the car has 110000 milies on it and they have never been done. I hope it could be something as simple as that. and yes it runs rough, loss of power. I will definetly look here first. thank you. maybe I need to invest in a code reader\diagnostic tool. any suggestions?

lazlong

Yes, that plug. When mine was leaking I dug it out with a pick and gently tapped it in with a rubber mallet. Factory service manual makes no mention of it- that I could find.

I've used this one for about a decade with no problems: http://www.mactools.com/product/tabi...9341-ET97.aspx There are several on eBay for less than $100 and knock-offs for about $40.

lowlife9

there's a rubber O-ring that gets brittle and fails. gently pry the cam plug out with flat head being careful not to break the clips off. wipe away the oil around the opening install new O-ring then apply honda-bond around the lip of the cap and press into place. let dry 24hours before driving.

WuBangerMac

thank you guys, you are awsome! and yes I checked out your link. thank you for all of your help. i will check my valves and see where I am at. I will let you know.

WuBangerMac

allright, I changed the plug and that was definetly where the leak was. I checked the valves and there were a couple a little off, but for the most part they were with in spec.
the shaking seems a little better. maybe i need to clearify a liitle bit more. sometimes throughout the driving range, the car will run smooth. sometimes at idle it will feel a bit better. I noticed today sitting in traffic, my car was idleing somewhat smooth and I had only my wipers running on low. everytime my wipers cycled my engine would stutter. the rpms stayed the same, but I could feel the car stutter while the wipers cycled. could my
problem be electrical. maybe a weak alt? what are the symptoms?