turbo*s2k

I have a 2000 Honda Civic Si with a B16a2. About a year and a half ago my car over heated when the lower radiator hose that connects to the block came loose, and the car over-heated. Ever since then the car has hesitated to start. It always starts it just doesn't crank over right away like a normal car would. Shortly after it over heated I spun a rod bearing, pulled out that motor and installed a JDM B18c longblock while the B16a2 block was being rebuilt. I used the same tranny, and starter. Car did the same thing. I'm back to the B1a62 and the problem still remains. Any thoughts on what it could be??? It's really bugging me, and it seems to be getting worse.

Always appreciate the help. Thanks in advance.

turbo*s2k

anybody???

fulldragcrx

So when u turn the key to start, does it just crank for a sec and then fire up. Or when u turn the key nothing happends for a sec and then it begins to crank. or what? decription is key to identifying the problem.

turbo*s2k

When I start it, it will crank for a second or two and then fire up. When it starts it starts at a really low RPM as if it's bogging then jumps up right away to 900 rpms. I sometimes give it gas to bring up the rpms right away.

Thanks for the help...

dunkd

uhm - is the car still under warranty? make it honda's problem... could be ALOT of things, ie. loose connections

turbo*s2k

It's not under warranty, and even if it was. This motor has been rebuilt by GE. There not going to touch the car now...

fulldragcrx

Id check igniton timing as well as all the engine grounds. again your only having a problem on start up, or does it ever idle funny after driving?

turbo*s2k

Idle's fine after it fire's up. I will check the timing, and all the engine ground points. I appreciate your help.

fulldragcrx

also hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Turn your key on and watch the gauge, it should go to abour 32-35psi and stay there. If it spikes there and then goes back to zero your fuel pump check valve has gone bad, also could be a bad pressure reg., youll need to replace it. this will cause extended cranking times due to the fuel pressure trying to build up. when fuel pressure is near spec. it will finnaly fire.

onePOINTsix

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fulldragcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Turn your key on and watch the gauge, it should go to abour 32-35psi and stay there. If it spikes there and then goes back to zero your fuel pump check valve has gone bad, also could be a bad pressure reg., youll need to replace it. this will cause extended cranking times due to the fuel pressure trying to build up. when fuel pressure is near spec. it will finnaly fire. </TD></TR></TABLE>thanks for that info, didnt know that, BTW where is the check valve your talking about?

turbo*s2k

I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted to the fuel rail, and one mounted in the car. Fuel pressure is good. I'm going to check my AEM fpr. Since I'm still breaking in the motor, and I'm not boosting right now I'll put my stock one on and see what happens...

turbo*s2k

When it fires I smell fuel as if it was running rich but the fuel pressure is set at 35 psi.

irev210

it doesnt sound like a starter related problem...

i would look at fuel/ignition if the car starts up but boggs

fulldragcrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for that info, didnt know that, BTW where is the check valve your talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its built into the fuel pump, it permits fuel to flow in one direction ( twards the motor) Again this is checked with the car not running.