Car hesitates when starting. Could it be a damaged starter?
#1
Honda-Tech Member
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Car hesitates when starting. Could it be a damaged starter?
I have a 2000 Honda Civic Si with a B16a2. About a year and a half ago my car over heated when the lower radiator hose that connects to the block came loose, and the car over-heated. Ever since then the car has hesitated to start. It always starts it just doesn't crank over right away like a normal car would. Shortly after it over heated I spun a rod bearing, pulled out that motor and installed a JDM B18c longblock while the B16a2 block was being rebuilt. I used the same tranny, and starter. Car did the same thing. I'm back to the B1a62 and the problem still remains. Any thoughts on what it could be??? It's really bugging me, and it seems to be getting worse.
Always appreciate the help. Thanks in advance.
Always appreciate the help. Thanks in advance.
#3
Junior Member
Re: Car hesitates when starting. Could it be a damaged starter? (TurboChrgd_Civic)
So when u turn the key to start, does it just crank for a sec and then fire up. Or when u turn the key nothing happends for a sec and then it begins to crank. or what? decription is key to identifying the problem.
#4
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Re: Car hesitates when starting. Could it be a damaged starter? (fulldragcrx)
When I start it, it will crank for a second or two and then fire up. When it starts it starts at a really low RPM as if it's bogging then jumps up right away to 900 rpms. I sometimes give it gas to bring up the rpms right away.
Thanks for the help...
Thanks for the help...
#5
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Re: Car hesitates when starting. Could it be a damaged starter? (TurboChrgd_Civic)
uhm - is the car still under warranty? make it honda's problem... could be ALOT of things, ie. loose connections
#6
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Re: Car hesitates when starting. Could it be a damaged starter? (dunkd)
It's not under warranty, and even if it was. This motor has been rebuilt by GE. There not going to touch the car now...
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#9
Junior Member
Re: (TurboChrgd_Civic)
also hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Turn your key on and watch the gauge, it should go to abour 32-35psi and stay there. If it spikes there and then goes back to zero your fuel pump check valve has gone bad, also could be a bad pressure reg., youll need to replace it. this will cause extended cranking times due to the fuel pressure trying to build up. when fuel pressure is near spec. it will finnaly fire.
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Re: (fulldragcrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fulldragcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Turn your key on and watch the gauge, it should go to abour 32-35psi and stay there. If it spikes there and then goes back to zero your fuel pump check valve has gone bad, also could be a bad pressure reg., youll need to replace it. this will cause extended cranking times due to the fuel pressure trying to build up. when fuel pressure is near spec. it will finnaly fire. </TD></TR></TABLE>thanks for that info, didnt know that, BTW where is the check valve your talking about?
#11
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Re: (fulldragcrx)
I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted to the fuel rail, and one mounted in the car. Fuel pressure is good. I'm going to check my AEM fpr. Since I'm still breaking in the motor, and I'm not boosting right now I'll put my stock one on and see what happens...
#14
Junior Member
Re: (Sideout)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for that info, didnt know that, BTW where is the check valve your talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its built into the fuel pump, it permits fuel to flow in one direction ( twards the motor) Again this is checked with the car not running.
its built into the fuel pump, it permits fuel to flow in one direction ( twards the motor) Again this is checked with the car not running.
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