poison

UPDATE 19 OCT 2011 - Will update pics and the new format this weekend!

<FONT SIZE="3">UPDATED 11 Jan 2007 - Switched all pictures to iServe. Hope it all helps you all. For more info/pics, feel free to PM me.</FONT>

Okay, I made a huge huge post in the EG thread about merging the prelude and civic engine harness to wire up your own H22A adapted EG harness, now time for a complete write up. I made a write up about 1 1/2 years ago and sent them personally to those who requested it, but now information has blown up and now it will be search encouraged.

Please note, all pics and such were taken by me, unless otherwise notified (and credited to). If you post pictures, please take the credit you have shown for helping out! Thanks

<FONT SIZE="4">Others PLEASE feed information that you have! Very strongly encouraged! Especially EK OBD2 information!</FONT>

Prepping list! (for the record R&R remove & replace)

- R&R (remove and replace) Spark Plugs
- Remove Exhaust Manifold (header) & clean exhaust ports (we all want a clean motor don't we? )
- R&R Timing Belt
- R&R Water Pump
- Remove stock mounts & Transmission Studs (may not need to be done with other mount kit, it will depend on what your mount kit requires)
- Remove stock H22A Power Steering & A/C
- Remove Throttle Body (to prevent damage to TPS while installing)
- Move Fuel filter towards battery in Civic engine bay and bolt in.
- Remove and mark (with masking tape) EVERY harness connector on where it came from/what it is & remove engine harness from H22A.

WIRING INFORMATION: MERGING OBD1 CIVIC HARNESS TO H22A ENGINE:

To referance to, here is a picture of the factory EG OBD1 (92-95 pinouts). For EK information, I highly encourage to post that!

This picture is from one of the old school tech sites (which I cannot remember, sorry)



- Take off and mark every single harness connector on where it came from/where it goes from both H22A and stock civic engine. Make sure you label them of where pulled the plug from! This will save a TON of time!

Mount Civic harness on H22A and measure/modify wire to be lengthened/changed as follows:

- Change fuel injector connectors to H22A type and add resistor pack from H22A harness to Civic harness (see diagram below)
- Extend Alternator wires to reach the H22A alternator (match the pinouts on the plug)
- Lengthen wire that goes to the starter solenoid on starter
- Attach reverse light sensor wire to the new H22A reverse light sensor wire

O2 sensor -add 3 wires to O2 sensor and follow o2 wires and change to Prelude O2 sensor connector. And wire the following:

This only applies to those who have a CX model Civic, or if you use a VX engine harness in a VX! If you have a 92-95 EX/Si/DX, this is NOT required. All OBD2 Civics also do not require this

WHT - WHT/RED wire goes to D14 which is O2 Sensor Input
BLK - ORG/BLK wire goes to A6, which is Heater Control
GRN - GRN/WHT wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
BLK - YEL/BLK wire goes to A25 which is Sensor voltage (you can also splice into the power junction harness at the driver side shock tower harness)

I have taken pictures to clear up more information on the O2 sensor. I will post this tonight.

If you have a VX model Civic, if you USE a different engine harness than the factory VX harness (such as an EX/Si, or DX engine harness), you need to perform the VX O2 sensor fix.

You can do this by simply removing the ORG/BLU wire pin from the 4th VX plug:



and moving it to the missing pin mating up with the WHT wire.


VTEC wiring: This applies to DX,LX,CX models only in 93-95! If you have any 92 model Civic, or any 92-95 EX/Si, you do NOT need to do this

There will be two available slots at the shock tower harness. You just need to simply salvage a male and female pin from an unused plug, and add the pins to the connector for the factory look.

- Add one wire from the VTEC Solenoid (grn/wht wire) to the A4 pinout at the ECU. Add the pin to the shock tower harness, and female pin at the female shock tower connector.

- Add one wire from the VTEC Oil pressure sensor (blk/blu wire) to the D6 pinout, and the other wire which is VTEC oil pressure ground. Simply splice (while soldering!) this to the thermostat ground on the engine harness.

thanks to Audiofuct for finding this mistake

Knock sensor wiring: (mounted at the rear of the engine near the cylinder head) Do the same for the male/female pins at the shock tower harness. There will be one available slot for this. Wire this from the KS to the D3 pinout (for OBD1)

Air Intake Bypass solenoid (secondary butterflies)

- Sensor voltage to the A25 pinout (or splice into the Yel/Blk wire connector at the driver shock tower harness.
- ECU Signal leading to A17 pinout on ECU

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) System: Applies to all model civics except VX using the VX engine harness. If you do not use the VX engine harness in a VX, then you need to do this!

- EGR lift valve solenoid - sensor voltage (A25 pinout) & ECU signal to A11
- EGR lift sensor - sensor voltage (A25 pinout), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12

Note: EGR is only to be wired up if you also use a P13 ECU. If you use a P28, P72, etc, then the ECU does not look for the EGR and therefore the sensor will be useless. So don't waste your time if you use another ECU.

FUEL INJECTOR WIRING: If you use the factory PEAK AND HOLD injectors, you WILL need a resistor box for your application.

First of all, a resistor box looks like this:




You should have four black wires, and one red wire (or four of the same color and one different color):

Here is a diagram (thanks to Hondata):



Now time to MOUNT the engine harness on the motor! I recommend mounting the engine harness with the engine out of the car. It's much easier to route and work around. Do as follows to check and make sure everything is connected:

- Injectors first
- IACV (idle air control valve)
- Alternator
- IAB (secondary butter flies)
- IAT (intake air temp) sensor
- Oil pressure sensor (rear of the motor)
- Knock sensor
- TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
- MAP sensor
- Distributor
- ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor
- Water temp sending unit
- VTEC Oil Pressure sensor
- VTEC solenoid
- Radiator fan switch (thermostat housing)
- Engine harness ground (10mm bolt on thermostat housing)
- ESS (electronic speed sensor)
- Reverse light sensor

NOTE: Also, to some H22's, they come with additional sensors that is not required. Mine came with a bunch that wasn't needed at all. This is one:



And you can also remove this and just connect the hose from the FPR directly to the intake manifold:



When you throw the motor in, finally, make sure the engine ground from the frame rail is grounded to the motor!

MOUNT KITS AVAILABLE:

There are dozens of H22 mount kits out by now, but the most common ones you will find around here is HASport & HCP mounts. I have known people with HCP and used them for a LONGG time with no issues. I, myself, have HASport mounts and they've been working great. Not to mention they have a lifetime warranty.


MAINTENANCE PRE-CAUTIONS

- Timing Belt for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $39.99 from AutoZone
- Water Pump for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $34.99 w/lifetime warranty from AutoZone
- NGK Spark Plugs for USDM 92-96 Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - approx. $15 from Honda. They usually use NGK Platinums, though which are $15 a PIECE!
- Throttle Body gasket for Prelude VTEC (Honda dealership) $7
- Extended Fuel filter hose (from fuel filter to fuel rail) - You can use an extended fuel line and use hose connectors/clamps, which can be bought at AutoZone, Advance, or Pepboys stores. You can also contact a local hose factory to have a custom hose made. (which I have done and recommend).


Drivetrain options:
- Right 90-93 Integra Axle - edit: You must use a prelude/accord inner CV joint in order for the axle to lock into the transmission. The inner spline shaft is slightly longer for the prelude/accord than the integra. A 90-93 Integra shaft and outer CV will work with the prelude inner.

Here is a picture explaining why:



- Left Custom 92 Prelude Inner CV joint with 90-93 shaft & Outer CV joint from
Raxles for $170 1-800-257-8192

OR

- 1990 Manual Accord Intermediate Shaft
- Left and Right 90-93 Integra Axles (with prelude inner cv joint on the right axle)

OR

- Driveshaftshop.com Stage/Level 1 axles Right & Left side using prelude intermediate shaft

I personally recommend using HASport custom axles for ease of installation.

Radiator options:
- FAL import racing fan for 92-00 Civic for $169.95 from Summit Racing 1-800-962-9094 with 1994-97 Del Sol VTEC Radiator or Integra Radiator

OR

- C&R Import Racing aluminum radiator with SPAL fan for DOHC motors - $439.95 (317) 293-4100

- 1992 Integra LS Upper Radiator Hose - approx. $15
- 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose - approx. $15

There are people who have ran a slim fan (such as FAL) on factory single core radiators. You can do this, and it will run just fine, but don't plan on taking your car on long canyon runs, road racing, etc, over heating issues will definitely come. But for normal daily driving, you will be fine.

If you are running NO A/C then you can get alternator belt - Part No. 25-060370 from NAPA Auto parts which is $20 or any 36-37" belt with 6 teeth.

Shift linkage information:

I know my car is a little dirty, but you know how it is

FIRST of all, I do NOT recommend installing the shifter cables and shifter assembly UNTIL you have already mounted the motor in the car. Why? This ensures you align the cables 100% perfectly so you do not have shifting problems. Once you cut the holes out of the car (like pictured):



This hole is to the prelude shifter assembly mounts FLUSH with the chassis:




This is the 2x3 inch hole that you need to cut to feed the shifter cables through:



Here is some pictures of the shifter assembly.



Drill 4 holes to secure the shifter assembly to the chassis and here is the finished product:



Here is a picture from underneath:




For throttle linkage, you can simply use the prelude throttle bracket by flipping it around using the Civic throttle linkage pictured here:



I wanna thank Jason KiDD, Newman and Timmay for help WAY back in the day

I will take more pictures and post more such has O2 information and such.

Other H22 hybriders, PLEASE post H22 information. Thank you.



Modified by poison at 8:09 PM 1/11/2007

Turbogixxer

I am going to Start adding info in the Thread to this post.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) System: Applies to all model civics except VX using the VX engine harness. If you do not use the VX engine harnss in a VX, then you need to do this!

- EGR lift valve solenoid - sensor voltage (A25 pinout) & ECU signal to A11
- EGR lift sensor - sensor voltage (A25 pinout), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12 </TD></TR></TABLE>

<FONT SIZE="4">A25 is wrong for sensor voltage, you need to use D20 or D19, they are 5v. A25 is 12v. </FONT>

EGR Wiring Info

USDM wire colors are the same as JDM.

Connector colors means that when looking at the connector (wire pointing towards you) that the way they should line up (From left to right)

<FONT SIZE="4">OBD1</FONT>

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL and RED

Sensor Voltage - BLK/YEL - goes to A25
ECU trigger - RED - goes to A11.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/WHT, and RED/WHT

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D12
Sensor ground - GRN/WHT - goes to D22
Sensor voltage - RED/WHT - goes to D19 or D20

<FONT SIZE="4">OBD2</FONT>

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL (ORG harness side) and RED (BLK/YEL harness side)

ECU trigger - BLK/YEL - goes to A7
Sensor Voltage - RED - goes to Key switched power.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/BLK, and YEL/BLU

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D9
Sensor ground - GRN/BLK - goes to D11
Sensor voltage - YEL/BLU - goes to D10

OBD1 vacuum diagram


OBD2 vacuum diagram



<FONT SIZE="4">Poison's OBD1 ~&gt; OBD2 distributor Diagram</FONT>


Check your 92-00 civic (integra to 01) for codes.



<FONT SIZE="6">Link to my troubleshooting thread, Great info!!</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="6">OBD1 ECU pinouts</FONT>


Modified by Turbogixxer at 10:11 PM 4/12/2006

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice poison. I am trying to get pics for you, but people keep selling me out.

If you need anything, just ask.

Oh, BTW The F22a4 manual tensioner with work on a h22a. All you need is:
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE

the 13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT is the same as the H23a. (i checked with honda and the part #s are the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

w00t w00t!! So you confirmed the F22 manual tensioner works? sweet!

How much did everything cost?

Turbogixxer

Yes, most/all F-series manual tensioners will work

All you really need is:

90140-P14-A00 WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)
90014-P14-A00 BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE

The others on the price list should be replaced (if you have not already)

Note: Sheerwood honda is a local dealership I used my Mechanic discount on.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/:

110232 001 1 WATER PUMP $86.28
31436 017 1 *14400-P13-014 (timing belt) $40.02
109817 025 1 BOLT $2.84
109818 030 1 WASHER, PLAIN (11MM) $2.38

http://www.slhondaparts.com/:

14400-P13-014 BELT, TIMING (155YU24 A-555) $48.60
19200-P13-003 WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $90.88
90140-P14-A00 WASHER, PLAIN (11MM) $2.48
90014-P14-A00 BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE $3.00

http://www.hondapartssource.com:
90014-P14-A00 BOLT 92 - 96 Prelude 2.72
90140-P14-A00 WASHER, PLAIN (11MM) 92 - 96 Prelude 2.27
14400-P13-014 1 1994 PRELUDE 38.33
19200-P13-003 WATER PUMP 1994 PRELUDE 82.66

https://www.hondapartsdeals.com:

14400-P13-014 BELT, TIMING (155YU24 A-555) $46.36
19200-P13-003 WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $82.13
90140-P14-A00 WASHER, PLAIN (11MM) $2.28
90014-P14-A00 BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE $2.74

Sheerwood honda:

14400-P13-014 BELT, TIMING (155YU24 A-555) $57
19200-P13-003 WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $84.15
90140-P14-A00 WASHER, PLAIN (11MM) $2.81
90014-P14-A00 BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE $3.38


What you should get, but have used ones already:


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/:

14510-PT0-004 ADJUSTER NO COLOR 50.18
14516-PT2-000 SPRING NO COLOR 3.00

http://www.slhondaparts.com/:

14516-PT2-000 SPRING $3.17
14510-PT0-004 ADJUSTER $52.85

http://www.hondapartssource.com:

14510-PT0-004 ADJUSTER 1 1994 PRELUDE 48.07
14516-PT2-000 SPRING 1 1994 PRELUDE 2.87

https://www.hondapartsdeals.com:

14516-PT2-000 SPRING $2.90
14510-PT0-004 ADJUSTER $48.43

Sheerwood honda:

14516-PT2-000 SPRING $3.57
14510-PT0-004 ADJUSTER $59.55


Modified by turbogixxer at 12:05 AM 1/31/2005

poison

Ok, hope things work. Just for others, this is in referance two 2point6's thread with converting from the factory H22A auto tensioner to the H23A manual tensioner:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=549516

poison

WIRING INFORMATION FOR EK'S and converting between OBD1 and OBD2:

Just FYI, mainly the same things apply as stated in the first post, only the pinouts are different, and there is a few additional things that need to be addressed.

A lot of the same things apply as what Katman and others have cleared up in this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=558245

OBD2a (96-98):

VTEC Solenoid -- samething as stated above only goes to the A8 pinout.
VTEC Pressure switch -- same thing, going to the C15 pinout.
Knock sensor -- same thing, except going to the D6 pinout.
IAB Solenoid - A26 pinout and splice with the Yel/Blk junction harness.

OBD2b (99-00):

VTEC Solenoid -- same thing as stated above only goes to the B12 pinout.
VTEC Pressure switch -- goes to the C10 pinout.
Knock Sensor -- goes to the C3 pinout.
IAB Solenoid -- goes to the B16 pinout.

I will have to look into EGR for those who require it on OBD2.

All other EK information, please click the link above on Katman's EK post. Thanks mucho Katman for the post BTW.

As for converting OBD's:

If you have an EK, and want to convert to OBD1 and have an OBD1 engine, then you will need to re-pin the distributor to OBD1 using either the OBD1 plugs (two of them) or using the EK plug.

You can do this by following this:

edit - this diagram is not currently on me. sponsor site went down. will have it back up soon!

For everything else, everything should follow to their proper pinout provided you have a working and proper jumper harness made, and leading to it's correct pinout.

Everything else still applies said in the first post.


Modified by poison at 11:05 AM 1/31/2004

hondaZvic

and POISON strikes again!!!
excellent brandon

if only this was available 2 summers ago... life would have been so much easier... im not sure what to post up in here... i think its all been covered pretty much.

HERE ARE A COUPLE LINKS TO THE MAJOR THINGS U MIGHT NEED:

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/HONDAPAGE.ivnu - AXLES

http://www.hasport.com/store/ ---MOUNTS

ok-----------------------------------------------------------------------
some have asked about how to wire an obd 2 ext coil dizzy to use with a obd1 p13 in an EK
so here ya go. ----------------
for a 99 civic ex, putting in a h22a4 w/ the factory disitributor (obd2 ext. coil), using a obd2--&gt;1 conversion harness and obd1 p13, USE the civic engine harness and modify it to fit the H22.

**((HELMS manuals highly reccomended for this))**

the 99 civic's are obd2.2 or 2b(whichever you call it), the plugs that plug into the ecu have to be rewired to obd2 or (2a) in order to use the conversion harness. (im assuming you know how to do this)

99 civic ex distributor wires (labels & colors):
TDC (top dead center) - ORN/BLU(dizzy color) or GRN(egnine harness color)
TDCM (ground) - WHT/BLU(dizzy color) or RED(egnine harness color)
CKP (crankshaft position) - LT BLUE or BLUE/GRN(dizzy colors) or BLU(engine harness color)
CKPM (ground) - LT BLUE/YEL or WHT(dizzy colors) or WHT(engine harness color)
CYP (cylinder position) - ORN(dizzy color) or YEL(engine harness color)
CYPM (ground) - WHT or BLK(dizzy colors) or BLK(engine harness color)

ICM (ignition control module) - YEL/GRN

Power wire - BLK/YEL
Tachometer - BLU

2000 prelude distributor, ext coil, and CKP/TDC sensor wires (labels & colors)
here is also the ecu locations for obd2 for each of these wires.

4 wires go to CKP/TDC sensor ontop of the crankshaft:
C3 - TDC - GRN
C13 - TDCM - RED
C2 - CKP - BLU
C12 - CKPM - WHT

distributor:
C4 - CYP - YEL
C14 - CYPM - BLK
A20 - ICM - YEL/GRN
tachometer - BLU(should be on 2 prong plug)

EXTERNAL IGNITION COIL will have 3 wires coming out of it. 2 connect to the distributor and 1 goes to a power source.:
GRN@coil, GRN@dizzy - connects coil to dizzy
YEL@coil, BLK/YEL@dizzy- connects coil to dizzy (should be a LARGE wire)
BLK/YEL - connects coil to power source.

i will post up some pics to go with this soon...

there you go. have fun you have to match the wires up from the civic harness to the corresponding wires on the h22.

Modified by hondaZvic at 12:59 PM 10/16/2003


Modified by hondaZvic at 6:26 AM 11/6/2003

fastwanabe

good info

good job Poison

tougeEGsies

F20b uses same mounts *** H22, but you have to take the driver side engine
bracket off an H22/23. F22 bracket does not bolt up to F20b block, it matches
on the mount side but not on the block side. Depending on how you recieved your
engine you might also need the rear bracket off an H22 as well.

Also I want to thank Poison, Katman and everyone else who has ever
answered one of my questions. You guys and anyone else who isn't
stingy with the info are what being cool is all about. THANX


Modified by 909 Civic at 1:31 PM 2/13/2004


Modified by 909 Civic at 1:32 PM 2/13/2004


Modified by 909 Civic at 1:33 PM 2/13/2004


Modified by 909 Civic at 1:36 PM 2/13/2004

hybridzOr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good info

good job Poison </TD></TR></TABLE>


stupid question....what is the extra linkage for?

Newman

Looks good Brandon. As for adding some info for the OBD-2 swaps, it's pretty straight forward if you have the wiring schematics for both the OBD-2 car and the OBD-1 motor...... OBD-2 and OBD-1 electronics are the same, just the connectors and wire colors are different (for the most part) so if you take some time to just plan & map it all out with the correct OBD-2 wire to the correct OBD-1 wire on the H22 harness plug, then there's no real problems that you'll run into.... just take your time on it. Any specific questions, I can answer but as for "how to do it" is pretty much what I just said above.

Here are some more fitment pictures & similar info that Brandon has already posted up, but also with the AC bracket in use (clearance pictures) along with some other clearance pictures and pictures of the EK front crossbar with the HCP kit: H22A Swap Info

Jason kiDD

Good luck guys. If you do need any additional info just IM me.. I am usually in the back watching the scene..

And just to add some after the swap is done info..
My following suggestions are:

Lightened flywheel, ACT Extreme Street Clutch and pressure plate, Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, AEM 3" ITR Cold Air Intake, AGX or Koni Struts, Ground Control or Skunk 2 adjustable coilovers, ITR/beaks rear sway bar kit or similar brand, MSD ignition & coil, and chipped out ECU or Hondata with some dyno time..

poison

Great info guys thanks

Any chance you guys have pictures, instructions on modifying the tranny mount for the HCP?

And let `em know about the supposed "understeer" deal that everying is hyping about.

Even info on any vibration issues, and how you fixed it would be helpful as well.

Root79

Can I put forget Jepistons in JDM H22 1992 year, without sleving?

I'm building EG H22 swap project in Europe.

Jason kiDD

I will take more detailed pics of the tranny mount soon..

If you use stock suspension with the h22 swap then you will have understeer. Once you upgrade your suspension the car will handle better. But is mostly the same with any car..

Only time you have vibration issues is with improper axle lengths.. When my car idles you cannot even tell nor feel it..

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Root79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I put forget Jepistons in JDM H22 1992 year, without sleving?

I'm building EG H22 swap project in Europe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You *technically* can, however, I very highly recommend you re-sleeve it. That motor will not last long at all and the FRM sleeves will melt (not really "melt"), but the cylinders will not be perfectly round and could cease the block..

Regardless, it's a mess I definitely not get into.

Jeff C

Stuff like this needs to be stickied(sp?).

AudioFuct

Ok, not sure who created this site but its also been a big help to me as well. Of course mad props to Poison and Newman for helping me first.

Once again, im sorry for not givin props specifically to whoever created this site (I got the URL off HT some time ago). But whoever did, its got some great pics of wire harness and plug locations.
http://www.h22hybrid.20m.com/index.html

F120man

VTEC wiring: This applies to DX,LX,CX models only in 93-95! If you have any 92 model Civic, or any 92-95 EX/Si, you do NOT need to do this

There will be two available slots at the shock tower harness. You just need to simply salvage a male and female pin from an unused plug, and add the pins to the connector for the factory look.

- Add one wire from the VTEC Solenoid (grn/wht wire) to the A4 pinout at the ECU. Add the pin to the shock tower harness, and female pin at the female shock tower connector.

- Add one wire from the VTEC Oil pressure sensor (blk/blu wire), and the other wires which is VTEC oil pressure ground. Simply splice (while soldering!) this to the thermostat ground on the engine harness.

thanks for the write up poison! good job! i just have one question:

you said to add one wire from the vtec oil pressure sensor. there are two wires there, do you want me to merge the two wires together at one point and have them grounded to the thermostat ground? if i didnt do this, is this a logical reason for vtec not working?(mines doesnt work) cause i didnt get to do this i just hooked up all the plugs on my 93 cx harness. but i did do the vtec pinout to A4 because my 93 cx had a 94 GSR motor in it and it was wired for vtec.

fastwanabe

here's my contribution
vacuum tubing(minus IAB and EGR)



bolt on fuel system(91 Accord fuel rail with stock civic fuel line).



Modified by fastwanabe at 5:36 PM 10/14/2005

Newman

Here are some other informative (first hand experience) posts that I made awhile back:

First time road racing a H22 Civic (this was 1.5 years ago, back when H22As into a Civic was still a new concept)

Axle information on what works and what doesn't (specifically with the HCP mounts, but also useful and with the HASport mounts as well.

citrusdrop

my h22 swap is almost complete and all of my problems or concerns have been solved from links in this thread...so far *cross finger* thanks fellas Wish I could add something but this is all you need to know...I'll post some pics of my swap as soon as I can...

drevinder

nice

UpstateCivic

Where was all this **** when I needed it man?!?! Jk, this is a great thread Brandon. You, Jason and Newman helped me out so much when I did my swap and everything went incredibly smooth. These guys know there ****, trust me!!

EsQueue

For a radiator I used a Gsr radiator and and the a/c condenser fan mounted to the radiator. I thought that this was a temporary thing but it works extremely well for me. I will just keep it now.