ReDJdMBuB

1990 2door Accord f22

Hello honda-tech,

while driving my car it starts to lose power and slow down as if i wasnt depressing the gas pedal. Feels like it wants to shut off. when i do depress the gas pedal if starts to shake a little and the check engine light comes on. I turn off the car wait a couple mins and when i turn the car back on i have no check engine light and runs fine.

-I changed the valve cover gasket because it was a silicone mess from the previous owner and oil was getting into my spark plugs.
-I changed the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and now i can hear the fuel pump turn on before i couldnt.

The only thing i can think is that my throttle body plate is getting stuck close? the cable from the pedal to the throttle body has play in it and when i manually open the throttle it will stay open and makes the car idle at about 1500. i adjusted the cable so even tho it stays open a little it will idle at 1000. Before i adjusted the throttle cable it would idle low and it died on me when i was playing with the gas pedal. I pulled the gas pedal instead of depressing it and it died.

Can it be my fuel pump? or maybe the TPS sensor is bad ?

im stumped

ReDJdMBuB

bump any help would be appriciated thanks!!

bryce warburton

pull ur throttle body off and clean ur tps sensor is rabbited on i think thats how u spell it lol but id chnge ur fuel pump relay and check ur fuel pressure and get back

unlimitedMIKE

VERY FIRST thing to do is make sure there is fuel in your car (IGNORE WHAT THE GAUGE TELLS YOU!!!) i know this sounds rediculous but i have overlooked this numerous times


next thing to do is check if the codes have been stored by the cars PCM..... then go from there. otherwise-

check the TPS for voltage, note it is a variable resistor so the voltage should change with the position of your throttle.... i believe idle is .05v or somthing to that extent

then go over the usuals with this model car.... ecspecially the idle components (IACV, FITV, EGR, etc) i would remove the egr, clean it(replace if staying open) remove carbon deposits etc.... dont forget to check all vacuum lines associated

check the ignition side as well (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) arcing could be present cause a short to ground aka misfiing..... however usually a ruff idle is associated with the EGR, fuel , and ignition.

check the fuel pressure regulator (35psi at idle- aprox. 42psi full throttle) check the vacuum line coming out of it, is there fuel coming out of it? if so, REPLACE IT.

the relay could be losing contact or the fuel pump could be "dying" jump the relay to the fuel pump and see if it continues to cause problems....

if nothing above fixes it..... i would recommend replacing the fuel pump. since this is the most likely cause. a fuel pump can sound like it is running but jump windings when under demand(heat) causing it to shut down....

-Mike

P_Adams

I would go the cheap route first b4 jumping through all manner of diagnostic hoops. Change the fuel filter first. It's often overlooked and will often effect fuel delivery.
From there I'd suspect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). They wear over time in a relatively small portion of their complete range of movement and will signal that the throttle's closed, rather than partially open. They will often act like a carburetor with a bad accelerator pump.

P

unlimitedMIKE

i don't believe you read my post?
not only did i already show him the process of testing the TPS, but at no point in testing does he need to buy anything more than some carb cleaner and a paper-clip..... as his original post stated, he has replaced the fuel filter.
(as well as the pressure regulator..... i suggested looking again incase it was faulty, part stores are bad about this)
by "making him jump through diagnostic hoops" he is able to spot things previously unnoticed, all the while obtaining more info as to how his vehicle works!
"ignorance is bliss. however, knowledge is power"

implying something will take to long is lazy and inefficient... adding to my diagnostic info however, is welcome and beneficial to me as well. (for future reference)

P.S. my intention is not to upset or offend you, and i am sorry if i have come off in this manner

-Mike

yobbr5

hey im having the same problem. i was wondering if you found what the problem was? ive changed the fuel filter, spark plugs & wires this weekend and its actually getting worse.

QuickSand

Wondering if you found the fix as well?

Bad_dude

I can clean the throttle body with it still on the car, but how do you clean the TPS? Do you have to take it off to do it? Or is there a way to clean it without taking it off? Do you use electronic cleaner spray to clean it? Please step instructions.

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

You don't clean TPS's. You can check the voltage. If it's out of whack replace it.

Bad_dude

I see.
Thanks.

osmaide

i have the same problem but my check engine lights comes on while im driving the car will lose power and turn off i turn the key back wait about a min and the check engine light goes away and it lets me drive the car couple miles later it does the same anyone know what it is

holmesnmanny

when the check engine light comes on, leave it running and immediately pull the code....again.. while the engine is running