Protosouls

1995 Honda Accord F22-B1 Automatic Transmission Symptoms

1. Floored, Shifts though gears seamlessly.
2. Normal driving, Slips. The slipping duration normally depends on how much gas the car is given, normally more gas = longer slip. With the exception of giving it all the gas.
3. When on the highway 55-60 mph 4th gear and then having to slow down to whatever speed it may be 35-45 it slips when it downshifts to speed back up again. The same thing happens when trying to pass a car. When the car downshift to a lower gear to access more torque the transmission slips (Even if you floor it) the only way it shifts properly is from Zero: Floored.
4. If you take your foot of the gas right as the car is about to shift it shifts much better(little to no slip)
5. Manually shifting the car through the gears using shifter (1st, 2nd, d3, d4) does not change anything.

this is everything I can think of, if i need to do something else with the car and tell you what happens just tell me im trying to figure out what is wrong with my transmission.

Yes..... I know Honda auto trans are garbage. all i'm looking for is for someone with transmission knowledge who might be able to tell me what is causing it to slip.

Thanks in advance, Austin.

Mike Bailey

Hi Protosouls, I've had nearly the same exact issue with my 1999 accord that is a 4 speed automatic.

Your issue is actually the clutch packs within. They are worn out which means you have to find a way to get the transmission replaced. Don't even bother with replacing the clutchpacks yourself because the insides are very delicate an highly sophisticated.

I live in california and i've had mine replaced with a newly re manufactured one. Basically the transmission shop that replaced it orders a rebuilt one from a company that specializes in re manufacturing transmissions. They can also install a used one that they can get from a junk yard. If you have the money i recommend you get a fully rebuilt one. Because getting a used one might mean you'll end up with the exact same problem quicker. So the rebuilt one would save you money in the long run.

Protosouls

Thanks for the quick and knowledgeable reply. I am considering replacing the transmission with a rebuilt one myself and was wonder if there is any kind of programming of the ecu/tcu required? or is it just bolt on and go?

Thanks again, Austin.

Mike Bailey

Well if you get a different one likely with a different serial number or transmission number on it. It's very likely that the engine will not recognize it. I had a transmission shop do mine but he was showing me what the new rebuilt transmission looked like. if you are going to get a rebuilt one yourself. They charge a core deposit if you don't return the old one (about 300 dollars some do). it cost me total in about $1500 to get mine replaced in the shop but if you know where you can pickup a re manufactured transmission locally in your area. That means you save a couple hundred on labor so long as you know how to swap them right and support the engine underneath. I highly recommend that you get a blue tooth obd2 adapter (the one i got sells for 16 on new egg some go up over a hundred) and the toque metering app for android (5 bucks) (or similar software if you just have a laptop or iphone) I'll link the adapter i bought Right here

here is the Torque pro app

poorman212

Just me but the auto trans in the 5th gen's (94-97) is a VERY WELL BUILT unit......I'd run from an auto in the 6th gen's (98-02).


Have you checked the throttle control cable to verify it is adjusted properly?

When was the last time you replaced the trans fluid and what type of fluid was used?

Again, as well built as the 5th gen autos are, I'd be fine with a used one if I had to replace it. No need to worry with any programing on your 95.

CD5B2

Where did you come up with that? I've read time after time they don't last that long over a certain amount of mileage. Mine has almost 160,000 km's and it always slips from 1st to second, but then again my old '90 did the same and it lasted 300,000 kms+ before I crashed it. I don't see why they make such a solid engine with a problematic transmission

Protosouls

Thank you, i'm pretty sure i'm just going to do it my self but I guess if i need to do a flash i will need to take it to a shop for that. i have obd1.. so that chip won't work.. Thanks anyway.

Protosouls

I ran about 6 quarts through it to see if that would make a difference and it didnt.. I used this http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7033928 and i guess it may help if i tell you this, my accord has 216,000 miles on it original trans and engine. I will check throttle cable today and report back, Thanks.

92 civic ex 4dr

95 you don't have to worry about flashing the ecm. It's "plug and play" so to speak. I replaced mine (97 accord F22B2) with one from a totaled 95 that i bought from a friend and it works great still to this day.

Make sure you buy the transaxle from a good shop our you could but a used jdm take out. If you haven't considered already, i would consider replacing the timing belt, water pump, all engine and transaxle mounts and even for ***** and giggles since the engine is going to be out already, front and rear main seal, oil pan gasket and rear heater hoses just as a preventive maintenance thing.

Just so you don't have to do it later. It will save you a HUGE headache, and time/money in the long run.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

poorman212

Guess you or the PO never took care of the trans or used the proper fluid....385K on the OE trans in the 95 and happy as can be .

Protosouls

Yea I am planing on doing all the seals when the engine is out. already did timing belt, water pump, and tensioners 6k ago so no need to replace those. what is a transaxle? So I sent the symptoms to a transmission mechanic and he says he thinks it is a valve body? anyone ever heard of those going bad on Hondas.

Thanks.

92 civic ex 4dr

You don't have a transmission in your car, you have a transaxle. A transmission runs a rear wheel drive vehicle, and a transaxle is for front wheel drive.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

CD5B2

I had the fluid changed around 30k ago and always check to make sure it's still pink. Only so much one can do without tearing it down or replacing. 385k nice, good to know it's possible for them to last.

Mike Bailey

I guess there are alot people more knowledgeable than me on that subject about the electronics part. I'm still reading heavily about OBDII. It is definitely the clutch packs though that is giving you the issue. Automatic transmissions in general are nowhere near as reliable as manual. Manual only has one clutch assembly. Your automatic has 4 clutch packs for those 4 gears then a 5th gear for the overdrive alongside torque converter lockup so the engines output shaft connects through the transmission directly to the drive wheels. The slipping and engine revving up is incredibly annoying. Makes you have to be extremely light on the throttle.

MAD_MIKE

I'm not sure where some of this hearsay is coming from, but its entertaining.

The 90-93/94-97 transmissions are rock solid and are different from the troublesome 98-02 units.

If there is a shifting issue, do the basics;
check for any stored codes.
verify that the TCU does not have any burnt capacitors or resistors.
verify that there is the correct amount of fluid in the sump.
verify that the fluid does not smell burnt.
verify shift solenoids all work by jumping battery voltage to each solenoid and listen for a 'click'.
if they do click make sure to remove each one and verify that the screens and valve seats are clean.
verify correct pressure in the various shift circuits.

If the transmission shifts fine when floored you may want to check your TPS. A worn TPS may not set a code/CEL but it could be off enough to cause erratic or no shift events.

Go here > http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

As for changing fluid, it is best to either
drain the trans, refill, drive a few miles do this two more times.
(It's not a proper flush, more of a dilution)
Or unhook the appropriate cooler line turn the engine on and allow the transmission to pump the fluid out, turn it off as soon as it begins to sputter.

poorman212

Mr. Mike has posted with more info than I did/have...nice.

"CD5"...just me and a debate. IMHO, starting with the 5th gens (94 and up) the only trans fluid that should be used is Honda Trans fluid (DW-1 now, 08200-9008). Again, don't want a debate, as I stated "in my opinion".

djkurious

I agree with Mike, those 90-97 transmissions are tanks. My sister has driven her 96 to death w/o maintenance and it still held up till she got a CRV. Once she punctured the cooler line, all the fluid ran out and it didn't move. I replaced the line then replaced the fluid, no issues. After that I drained and refilled every 15k and never any issues. Sold it with 284k on the clock.

MAD_MIKE

I forgot to mention, if the NM/NC sensors are coated with ferrous material this will cause erratic shifting. These are located in the left hand cover, the above link has a paragraph on it.

kzenmce

im having the same problem with my 94 accord ex. replaced the shift solenoids (upper and lower) and still having essentially the same issue. i'm hearing an adjustment sound from the passenger floor board area. i know the tcu is down there. if i replace that and its still doing it, what i gather here is that its the clutch packs right?

CD5B2

No debate man..just like opinions like you said. Didn't mean for it to come across as that, just found it surprising.

MAD_MIKE

Did you go to the techauto link and do the basics yet?
'adjustment sound'? What do you mean? If you live where there is right hand traffic then the transmission is on the passenger side and you will hear various noises from that foot well if the transmission is acting up.

Can you be more specific as to what your transmission is doing?

kzenmce

the sound is like a computer shifting around. it sounds electronic, not mechanical...if that makes sense. when i brake to take a corner and then accelerate after the turn, it feels like the car didn't downshift all the way before the turn but then does right as i hit the gas because it revs high. it shifts back up but it still gets that jerking motion because it downshifts too late. thats why i checked the shift solenoids. im wondering if i need to get the car tuned though since i put the new ones on?

MAD_MIKE

This 'electronic noise' still is not very descriptive, do you mean you can hear the TCU itself moving around loosely?

The solenoids are simply hydraulic switches, there is no tuning, they are either on or off.

If you have erratic shifting then you may want to read up on the paragraph on the Codes 9/15 for the NM/NC sensors on the right side cover in the TechAuto link. These sensors send a signal to the TCU letting it know what the shaft speeds of the transmission are. Combined with TPS reading the TCU computes what you are attempting to do and will shift. If the TPS is worn or the NM/NC sensors are covered in ferrous material(they are magnets) then the signal resolution will be garbage and the TCU will not command a correct shift event.

However, if it is an odd corner sometimes one must be smarter than the machine, and manually downshift.

kzenmce

Ok. That makes sense. I'll take a look at those sensors. I just started doing stuff to this car so Puerto much everything could use a thorough scrub and inspection. Thx for the feedback