Perez_cb7

so i hit a pothole hard enough to bend my radius arms
does anybody know a company that makes them for a 92 honda accord
aftermarket or oem point being i need new ones any help would be appreciated

Jmb106jr

why dont you go to the junkyard, u pull it? can't imagine them costing to much, a lot less than aftermarket or dealership.

Perez_cb7

thats true but it just gives me an excuse to put money into my car
an i want to see what i can get for my money before i go to a junkyard

Jmb106jr

I look at it this way i can go to the Boneyard and get an OEM part for a fraction of the price at a dealership w/ out sacrificing Honda quality, after all we talking about a 21 year old car. I have a 92 and there are things that i buy at the dealership, radius rods would not be one of them.

Perez_cb7

alright thanks man an it looks like im heading to a junkyard i cant find them online

HonBeer

Your car is 22 years old.

10thcb7

If you want to do a "mod" the bb2 front cross member is lower profile. Other wise just make sure the radius rod you buy is not bent! defeats the purpose lol

NZXTInerTia

Who gives a crap if its a 22 year old car? I've seen 90-93 Accords that well surpass a lot of new ones. No there is not a "performance" upgrade for a radius rod, just get one at the junkyard. If you want, you can buy new bushings/shims for it from Honda.

Perez_cb7

my car maybe 22 years old but i bet you its running better than most of the cars on the street considering im pushing about 230hp and its not even boosted yet im running a f22B dohc on a f22a6 block with short ram air intake aem fuel rail aem fuel pump and filter, 400cc injectors and a standalone aem series 2 ems TUNED properly running a 12.7:1 a/f ratio
sitting on megan racing coilovers sway bars strut bars and a reinforced chasis to top it off the car still isnt finished
so dont comment on the age of my car cause i gurantee it handles better than whatever your driving

Perez_cb7

thanks man il look into it
if anyhting i might end up importing the radius arms from japan but il check it out

10thcb7

Not a problem. Don't import one from Japan, thats a waste!

I can state that the cd5 radius rods are different than cb7 rods not sure if its compatible with the BB2 front subframe, or if it pulls the caster towards the front more(that helps incase you through something off from the impact). Make sure you get an alignment afterwards, on a hunter machine to check for toe camber and caster.

holmesnmanny

I think he was just correcting the 21 year old comment.

Perez_cb7

arnt the radius rod on the cd5 longer?

arkangel2487

If you don mind coughing up 400 buckaroos explicitspeedperformance.com sells traction bar systems. That's about as aftermarket as I've seen for radius rods.

holmesnmanny

Hey everyone, don't go to that site up above...it's spam.

10thcb7

I know they are different but I cant remember how, I need to go to a yard on my day off, and experiment with different setups. If they are longer that would push the wheel back and actually give you negative caster. (which is bad) but I remember the threads on that rod longer than the cb7 also. In other words I'm not sure if they have more thread to pull the caster foward vs the cb7 oem units.

Perez_cb7

Caster? i figured it would throw out the toe a little more if they were longer
caster is affected by the position of the ball joints at an angle isnt it

10thcb7

I actually didnt think about that. If it threw the toe off by pushing back the wheel (which is what we dont want to happen) or if it infact pulls the wheel foward, then atleast the toe is adjustable. But see I think only the DA9 has adjustable caster rods(or some thing like that *might be a retrofit*)

A traction bar system from ESP can also adjust caster.

Perez_cb7

well i already have all adjustables on my car
so i can do camber caster and toe (wheel aligntment is never within manufacturer specs anymore) ima have to experiment with the arms from the cd5
im pretty sure i can even out the camber caster and zero out the toe

MAD_MIKE

I'm gonna back you up here for a second.
Radius rods locate the wheel for/aft. They are also rather large steel members, quite strong. When driving forward if you were to hit something with your front wheel, it would place the rods in tension, not compression. These rods are also intentionally bent from the factory to clear the engine and transmission, on AT cars the right rod is flattened and has a tighter kink to it to clear the larger AT case. If enough force was applied to the radius rod from hitting a pothole while going forward the radius rods would be straightened, not bent. But that is highly unlikely to happen as there are large rubber bushings that attach the rods to the front of the car.


If you did indeed hit a pothole(and not sloppy drunk plowing over a curb) and your wheel(s) are now further aft in the wheel well, albeit that more than likely the 'front beam'(as its called by Honda) where the front of the radius rods attach to was shunted back a bit. Check the bolt heads where it attaches to the unibody structure, if it has moved there will be witness marks, also make sure it is not bent itself.


And if you hit a pothole the size of Rhode Island(or you were plastered six sheets to the wind) it is possible that the front upper control arm was damaged by a hard compression impact. It is possible to pop the ball joint out of the sheetmetal control arm or bend it from impacting the shock tower. Again look for witness marks.


As for these 'traction bar' systems, they are laughable at best and suicidal at worst. Out of pure laziness there is a spherical bearing used to attach the new radius rod to the lower control arm. This will create some fairly active caster changes from bound to rebound. Normally the lower arm and radius rod create a large V arm. If the new frame attachment point of the radius rod is not the same pivot as the original radius rod, then the new rod may pull on the lower control arm changing caster angle during both compression and droop.
A proper replacement for the bushing should be some kind of monoball that either directly replaces the stock mass of rubber, or comes with a new front beam that would also allow some caster adjustment while adding track length.
[sarcasm]What are you talking about? They only have every scrap piece of paper that every article that has ever mentioned their name on the front page of their website...[/sarcasm]



So what else is non-stock on your Accord?

Perez_cb7

So what else is non-stock on your Accord?[/QUOTE]

the only thing that is stock on my accord is the body and interior and well the radius arms thats as far as that goes
thanks for the info
i wasnt drinking and driving i usually dont race on the street but some guy kept following me one night in a 2005 3-series why i dont know
i was doing about a 150 and didnt see the pothole or the sharp left that came after the pothole and ended up bending my rim and hitting the curb
i was surprised it didnt do any more damage than what it did

yes the radius arms are quite strong but those are the only parts i couldnt find on the street or in stores to replace them with when i bought the car

poorman212

I'm not sure which is worse? Please don't do either of these again. Thanks.

arkangel2487

My fault it's .net not .com. I have it bookmarked

arkangel2487

Well they've been proven to give performance gains none the less