toofa

i have the vsa and ! light on as well as ABS and Brake lights.

where do i begin to diagnosis ?


Car runs fine, no issues so far.

i swapped ecu's with a known good one, still same lights coming on, does the fact that they only go on after 18-20 mph, if i dont drive faster than that, they dont turn on.
Dealer pulled codes:
83-13
86-11
112-01
anyone have any idea what these mean?

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

83-13 pcm communication error.
86-11 (assuming vsa code not srs) fcan communication error from pcm to vsa modulator
112-01 internal cpu malfunction in vsa modulator unit

Ok, a few things, from the looks of this, I belive the 1st 2 of these codes are residual of the main code. Such as the fcan line issue of pcm/vsa communication problems. It is likely your vsa modulator unit is faulty or you have physical wire and/or terminal damge (short to pwr,gnd, ect) Before I give you any more information, you need to supply the exact year, milleage, and service history. Such as battery replacement, major work performed, timeline. And whatever the tech's @ honda said (unless you didnt pay for diag time and just got the codes pulled which im assuming) Let me know please to further help you troubleshoot.

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

By the way; Certain dtc's (possibly such as these here) require certain enable conditions, and since the vsa mod unit deactivates certain functions beyond this set speed limit, it is possible for your lights to turn off and on during these events.

toofa

Thanks for the help man, I have 2007 Civic si, optima battery- Brand new, Replaced the factory battery. the vehicle has 100k, i have changed the all the fluids myself, mobil 1 synthetic oil and amsoil tranny fluid. i mistakenly followed a home made DIY to relocate the battery. and my troubles have started since, i did move the battery back

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...g-sri-cai.html

its probably related but i cant narrow down where. iv been to the dealer two times and they want to run a straight clock to test everything.....thats just too costly for me.

toofa

i forgot to add that the vehicle is also throwing a code that i can pull as well, it is U0122

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

Another body eletrical code. Ok, I will get back to you tommorow with some diag and etm information. I will review the circuit and power distribution of the vsa system and fcan. Without being @ the vehicle I will assist as much as I can.


Btw, were the dtc's cleared and then confirmed on again after either key on egine off or test drive?

toofa

yes the dtc's seem to be turn on and off, if i let the vehicle sit overnight they dont automatically turn back on, they then reappear after 18 mph , it seem like the systems are testing themselves once or twice and then the lights stay on.you are a blessing, thank you. but if i make a few short trips during the day the system lights stay on regardless of the vehicle speed.

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

Before we begin, do you have a basic digital multimeter to read voltage? If your test leads are similar to back-probe adapters or they are, that would be best. Because Im about to send you on a short adventure of testing points. I belive you have internaly shorted you vsa unit as a result of either somethiing you did while battery relocation, or its just a coincidence. It doesnt matter tho at this point. ^????????

ALSO I need to know every single wire you touched, spliced, cut, relocated, ect.

(also that diy mod is no good. Unless your running that kind of intake and you absolutely must relocate the battery, I highly suggest you mount the battery back to oem)

toofa

I do not have one currently,

I was wondering if i am able to aquire a flashpro tuning device and disbale the vsa option ; that might narrow down the issue if its a failed module, what do u think ?


i didnt cut/splice any wires. i did move the postive and negaitive battery termainal leads so that they would reach as well as relocating the ground. after the car threw all the codes i moved everything back to stock but the same issue keeps occuring, its worth noting that the onset of this caused the main fuse on the vehicle to blow and i had to get it towed home. i replcaed the fues and the car hasen't had a starting issue since.

as far as the diy, i do have a VERY simmilar intake.

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

Im wondering if while it was jumped the unit shorted. If you can get access to a dmm or a buddy has one, I can further help. Flashpro is good stuff BUT your vsa unit does other functions for your safety regradless of Flashpro so to the effect, that wont help you. You have an issue, regrading safety, so I would suggest you repair the issue regardless of if you get Hondata or not. I too have an Si with flashpro. But I would never want my vsa/abs unit faulty. It can cause other issue that might trickle down the fcan lines and create pcm issues indirectly related. Again, if you can gain access to a dmm, let me know, as I will help you troubleshoot. If not, good luck and be safe despite the vsa/abs disfunction

toofa

im going to ask a buddy of mine to borrow one, if not ill just have to invest. where would you like me to start off. i just want to use the fp as a process of elimination. if its disabled and my abs lights dont come one, can we then eliminate all the abs sensors ?

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

you cannot eliminate abs/vsa ect. FP isnt used for process of elimination, and we are not getting @ that anyway. Proper troubleshooting is reqd. If you get a dmm;

*Turn your key to lock (0)
Disconnect your vsa units 37pin connector.
Measure the voltage @ pin 13 (White solid wire) and a good body ground. (refer to pics)

There should be battery voltage. If there is not, PM me. If there is, good. Continue...

*Now measure the voltage @ no28 and body ground. There should be 0volts. If NOT; you have a short (to power) in the that terminals wire, that leads all the way to the underdash fusebox @ Fuse no4 (7.5amp) and you must repair that wire. If you have 0volts, continue.....

*Keep the clip unplugged and turn your key to ON (ll) and measure voltage @ the same no28 and body gnd. If you have NO voltage, again, you have an issue from terminal 28 to the no4 fuse in the underdash. If you have voltage, turn your key to OFF or LOCK (0) and plug your vsa back in. Make sure you have no loose connections or wire ect. If everything here has checked out and has led you to this point here, replace you vsa module as its solid state circuitry has failed.

Notes; this diag ^ is for dtc 112-01 which is the 'internal vsa unit fail', the others are residual (more than likely) of this code, including the 'U' code, which is fcan related in body eletrical. Such as, communication error via fcan (which is the communication line thats runs thru the micu's, gauge module, vsa, pcm, ect), and pcm-vsa unit relation failure; all related to the vsa unit being faulty. If you doubt any of this info here, or you would like someone qualified (I am qualified as I am a honda tech) to look at this, such as a fellow Honda technician, I suggest brigging it in so they see and be @ the car, and having them troubleshoot if you feel you are in over your head. Let me know what you find. Btw, they might look at you funny if you say you want to buy a vsa module, bleed your brakes, and have you vsa calibrated, with no diag as a demand lol. Which also leads me to say, you must bring it to Honda to have it calibrated.

toofa

ill check it out as soon as i can get my hands on a multi meter, do you have a diagram of where the VSA module connecter is located? or a brief description of location? i thnak you for all the help sir.

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

No problem. Looking down, left side of engine room. The connector is a little tricky

toofa

thank you

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

No prob. Btw that connector view I posted up, is from the wire side, not the terminal side.

toofa

its just a matter of unplugging it , right ?

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Be careful not to break the tab

toofa

okie dokie

frydrce

A quick check that may eliminate some question. I had a voltage problem and it just ended up being corrosion on the pins at the ecu. Just a thought.

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

This can happen yes. However unlikely in this situation, for this to be the root cause. The fcan dtcs run on the fcan lines so those 2 terminals being corroded @ the vsa unit or the pcm isn't likely to be exclusively in an entire cavity. Also the vsa self check internal cpu failure dtc. But since you bring it up, this is why I'm having OP do terminal checks.

toofa

sorry for the delay i still haven't had a chance to pick up a DMM, ill be doing so this weekend, today something weird happened. none of the lights came on for the first time in weeks , but when i hit the brakes and the abs system activated, all the lights flashed 3 times and then stayed on.
prior to this, i did use excessive throttle to see if the vsa system was working, and it was for that short frame of time.

kingteg

iTrader: (1)

No worries. Ya certain dtc's have criteria and conditions that must be met to turn the lights on. Lmk what you find, or what you need as far Etm info.

rafaelcaetano10

Hello,

I have the same problem reported here. I have done all the tests and the result is my vsa modulator is faulty. The question is: my car is from brazil and the part number is diferent from the one of USA. Is there any problem if I use an american vsa modulator in my car?

The part number of my vsa modulator is: 57110SNXA62
The USA Vsa modulator part number is: 57110SNXA52

Thanks.

andyrew30

I am trying to do this same thing on a 2009 Honda Accord coupe EX-L. I have searched all over, and this is the only forum I have seen that shows how to check for a bad VSA module or bad wiring. The only problem is that the Accord connector is slightly different. Would you be able to tell me which pins to check on the accord?

Thanks!