freefall365

95 EX

My ABS light comes on after I hit like 5-10 mph..

Thoughts on how to diagnose this one?

thanks.

jroxz44

Mine does the same thing. But i cut the abs wire because of my winter driving conditions where i live. Look on the inside of your wheeles and see if someone removed it. Its common for people who live in dangerous winter driving condition cause abs is horrible when there is alot of snow/ice on the road. I slid through many stop signs cause abs kept surging. Much better after alittle snip. I can actually stop when i want

freefall365

I found it easy enough to disengage the ABS by pulling a fuse.. Thanks though, I will check for any snipped wires.

Is the ABS on these really that bad?

jroxz44

We get a couple feet of snow a year. And i found i stop better without it. Atleast u can antisipate the slide and let off if its too much with abs it surges forever and never really stop me in the heavy snow. I would prefer to be in control rather then the car. With good studded winter tires i rarely slide. But abs still goes crazy with every little lock up. Its all preference. If you live somewhere that never gets alot of snow or ice i would probably keep it.

Lost Again

Is you are trying to fix it, why wouldn't you get the codes and go from there. Kind of easy on a 95.

FurryBalls

Hey guys, I have a Honda Accord EX Coupe 1996. Engine is F22B1, SOHC VTECH with friggin' ABS.

Same thing is happening to me, but mine get weirder every time. If I start the engine while holding the brake pedal down the light wont stay on... If I dont, the light will come on and stay. I dont always hear that "shaking" sound from the ABS pump, I hear it sometimes. It seems not to be related to the light coming up cause the light will go on no matter if I hear it or not. I pulled the code and is comming 1-2, High Pressure System... But the problem resolution chart on the manual has to be the most imprecise thing of all. Another thing, the alternator is charging, but the damn light for it wont go off. I checked, as the shop manual states, shorting the top two wires in the connector and disconnecting it all of the alt assembly and the light does go off. I dont know but I'm under the impression these two are related. The alt will work fine, will provide steady 14.18v to the charging system will @ 1000RPM wich is within specs as for the shop manual.

I'm on a money strain so I'd really like to have both things repaired by myself instead of taking them to the shop and getting my head ripped off by a tachnician. Honda shop is completely out of the question. Last time I asked about the price to replace the Alt they said US$450 just for the part. Another US$200 to take it out and put the new one.

Lost Again

If you are not getting the proper voltage then the abs light will come on.....I know on my 95 when the alt went the abs came on as well, corrected the alt issue and no more abs.

Personally, I'd start a new thread about the charging issue, or at least the light. Once that is corrected if the abs is still there....then start a new one with that issue. Hard to follow a couple of posters with multiple issues that may or may not be the same.

Arthas

How would one go about diagnosing the light? Does it have codes like a MIL?


And what fuse do I pull to get rid of the light. Its annoying

freefall365

How do I pull a code on the ABS light? Same paperclip trick as getting the CEL codes?

Lost Again

For the 95 Accord, seems to be a few posters here (freefall, jroxz and furry) and , Yes the same way you check for ECU/TCU codes will also get you the ABS codes.....of course count the proper light .....the 96 4cyl still have the two pin service connector like the 94/95.

Arthas, forget what year you have?

FurryBalls

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm meaning to open a thread for this, but I'm still unable since I'm a trial user.

Soon as I get rid of that, I'll open a proper thread for this.

BTW, I'm suspecting you might be right about the alternator/vr getting shot and the ABS light coming on. Unfortunatelly I did not own the car when this happened the first time to determine if the Charge light came at the same time as the ABS one. Weird thing today, the light went off during my daily run in the car... And I had the opportunity to check if the ABS was working OK... And it actually does! This intermittent problem then might, afterall, be related to the alt going out (it still charges, but the frigging light won't go off).

FurryBalls

All others, yes, It shoots codes when you jump the service port on your car. It's a blue connector with two pins attached to a blind socket below the passenger side of the dash, right behind the glove box. Mine is throwing 1-2. To read the codes, count the lights. Mind though, that you have to actually count the blinks, and these are not long for 10s and short for 1s. These are all short. To read em, check the example below.

Example:
- = light on
p = short pause
--p---- pp --p----

thats a code 2, 4; repeated twice.

My car will show em just two times and then go off while in check mode.

FurryBalls

No fuse that i know of, arthas. you got to put up with the light all along.

freefall365

thanks for the input guys.


now where do i look up the ABS codes?

ABS is throwing a code 4 I think (four fast blinks, pause, then four fast blinks again, then stops)

Also, the SRS was just blinking forever. I don't know what that was all about or if that means something.

I really appreciate any input fellas, driving this accord up and down the east coast shortly and want to figure this stuff out.

freefall365

ok so perhaps I was off, and the code it is throwing is actually 4-4

Apparently 4-4 code is for "Circuit of right hand rear wheel speed sensor"

Any insight on this? Big deal? Easy DIY? do I have to take it to dealership if I want to get it repaired by a mechanic?

Thanks again.



here is a list I found...

Here is a list of ABS codes,

1 The hydraulic pump motor is over-run
1-2 The hydraulic pump motor
1-3 Is a high pressure leak
1-4 The pressure switch
1-8 Accumulator of high pressure system
2-1 Circuit of handbrake warning lamp switch
3-1 Rotor teeth damaged on right hand front wheel speed sensor
3-2 Rotor teeth damaged on left hand front wheel speed sensor
3-4 Rotor teeth damaged on right hand rear wheel speed sensor
3-8 Rotor teeth damaged on left hand rear wheel speed sensor
3-12 Combination of different sizes of tires
4-1 Circuit of right hand front wheel speed sensor
4-2 Circuit of left hand front wheel speed sensor
4-4 Circuit of right hand rear wheel speed sensor
4-8 Circuit of left hand rear wheel speed sensor
5-4 Right hand rear wheel lock
5-8 Left hand rear wheel lock
6-1 Front fail safe relay
6-4 Rear fail safe relay
7-1 Right hand front, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
7-2 Left hand front, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
7-4 Rear, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
8-1 Operation of the ABS
8-2 The ECU
8-4 Internal circuit of the ECU

Hope this helps

freefall365

looks like i will be trying to clean the wheel sensor tomorrow to see if that helps-- if anyone has a good DIY on this let me know.

also, still very curious what the SRS blinking is all about.

Lost Again

You are past the 5 post thing so you should be good to go.....and this might go to some of the others....under the hood there is a second ABS fuse panel....can't remember and too lazy to look but I think the B1 fuse resets the abs....heck pull both and reset the abs.

Lost Again

First thing I would do is clean the "ring" and the sensor...brake cleaner and a rag. Next, hope you have a volt meter, remove the connector and measure the resistance (sensor side)? What do you get?

...ps just so we are all clear. Right rear on a us accord is the pass/right side of the car.

Lost Again

Lets get one at a time.....when you are ready for the srs, start a new thread.

freefall365

Thanks you LA.

I'm not sure what the Ring is that you are referring to, but it will probably make more sense once I have the sensor off -- it is a single bolt to remove it correct?

I do have a vlot meter -- Not sure what "connector" is you are referring to.

Lost Again

LA, that is a new one for me....I get called a ton of things.

Anyway trying to remember,sad because I own a 95. I think the ring is to the "inside" of the rear hub....it will be a "toothed" ring, then there will be a two wire "sensor" mounted close to it.

First thing, clean the ring and anything "on" the sensor. If the light is still on, reset the abs of course, then follow the wires from the sensor to the "center" of the car. There should be a connector (orange color?) where the sensor connects to the "rest of the" abs system. Pull this connector apart, test the resistance of the wires going to the sensor/wheel side of the system......the rear is something like 600 to 900.

freefall365

It's becoming painfully clear I know NOTHING about ABS..

How do i reset the ABS system?

Thanks for all the help.

FurryBalls

You can either pull the fuse for the and under the hood, or disconnect the battery for 20 seconds. That erases ABS and ECU codes.

freefall365

thank you mr. *****, i'll give that a shot....

Lost Again

Here is a pic of the sensor. Again you can try cleaning. The other test is to remove the connector on the sensor, towards the middle of the car, and check the resistance of the sensor.