hondad6

the noise started out as a light ticking sound when brakes were applied in parking lots and such, slow constant light breaking. I recently changed my pads and rotors with ceramic pads and oem rotors. The ticking noise turned into a regular grind like there is a high spot on the rotor or something. visual inspection yields nothing.

Next i replaced my caliper brackets and guide pins thinking they were worn. The noise went away but now it is coming back with a vengeance. I'm stumped, any experience with this phenomenon will be greatly appreciated. The car is a 1998 integra GSR.

hondad6

no ideas ?

TheRealTegger

Whereabouts do you live? Rust Belt, sunny southwest, where?

eaglewesman

Just 2 days ago I ran into the same problem. There's a high spot on my rotors, looking like it's grinding. The pads looked OK but I ordered a new set of rotors/pads anyhow. I will be putting them on in a week or so, I'll try to let you know if I find anything unusual.

el crapitan

maybe the pad retaining clips are rubbing?

hondad6

I live in central Georgia so no major rust problem. It could be the clips i will look again at them.

Thanks eaglewesman i will be looking for your post.

Another thought i had was maybe wrong guide pins because when i pack them with silicone grease it stops the noise. It also stops the caliper from wiggling so much. Once the grease settles away from the pivot points the caliper starts rocking again?

hondad6

Did a full breakdown and inspection again. No signs of rubbing on anything. the guide pins were dry, not much silicone grease on them. i also noticed play in the inner tie rod end. no play in the wheel bearing. The rotor felt a little warped. has a high spot where the brakes grab harder, maybe caliper replacement and rotor. sorry for the rambling thoughts but that's what i have got so far. have not driven it yet so dont know if packing the pins helped yet.

eaglewesman

rambling thoughts are what keeps this forum alive and allows for people to help us with our problems!! i really wish i could check mine out right now but i've got studying to do and work long hours as well. i will "ramble" next week once i get my car up on jacks!

hondad6

Yeah i got finals this week and next too. graduating on the 11th finally after 10 years. Gotta take a break once in a while from studying to let your brain recuperate. lol or

TheRealTegger

More likely the rotor is not seated true, and is wobbling when it rotates.

Pull the rotor once more, and make 1,000,000% certain the rotor and the hub are TOTALLY free of even the TINIEST speck of foreign material between them.

If there is even the slightest hint of rust on the hub, or inside the top-hat of the rotor, get some 80-grit emery cloth and sand it off, doing a TOTAL clean of particles afterwards.

hondad6

will do, thanks for the advice on that one, never thought of that.

eaglewesman

So after my car stalled on me twice these past two weeks, resulting in tows both times, I finally got my front rotors and pads replaced as promised. (The two stalls were due to a bad ICM the first time and bad TDC/CKP/CYP sensors the second time).

About 2 years ago I replaced the rotors and pads, but from the noise I was hearing they needed replacing again. And upon removing them this week I noticed that one pad (the outer passenger pad) was completely worn down to the metal. That's the reason for the grinding noise I've been experiencing.

The remaining 3 pads had plenty of thickness left, and I'm not sure why. Does anyone know why one pad would wear so bad while others are fine? A few things to note are: my driver side axle needs to be replaced, the car was running with 3 lugs on the passenger side for a while (but was fixed before the pads/rotors were replaced 2 years ago), my lower ball joints need to be replaced (especially my driver side, it pops), new tires and alignment was done about 8 months ago.

Would the bad axle(s)/ball joint(s) cause abnormal pad wear? Let me know your thoughts. I plan on replacing both axles and ball joints this summer, with possibly a set of coilovers as well.

After installing the new pads/rotors, my steering wheel no longer rattles uncontrollably during braking.

Passenger side, notice the outer pad is completely down to the metal.






Sorry for the poor quality iPhone pics


Metal dust!


Ahhh, much better


Driver side


The outer driver pad starting wearing very oddly - like it was angled when being pressed so only the top half of the pad was making contact.


Driver side rotor/pads installed.

kyden

are your caliper slides sticking?

hondad6

^^X2 the guide pins need grease. Or replacing. My problem is a severly warped rotor. Brand new rotor. IDk how it warped so bad drivers side is fine. I am thinking there may be a problem with the hub? any input on that would be good.

Dogginator

I have had rotor runout issues before due to corrosion on the hub face. Sanding it addressed the problem.

LoveMyAccord

I am having kinda the same problem but not I wrecked my car in Auv last year and awhile afterI started hearing weird grinding but pads checked out fine then monthe later my steering started gettin really weird so I checked sway bar and ended up replaceinglinks and then did change so did my outter tie rods and four wheel alignment and balence but to find out my brakes bad and cuz my rotors bad it cuzing pulling but that doesnt make sense cuz if it was rotir would only be when I apply my brakes but did my front brakes and used "Disc Brake Quiet" worked great at first for the shimmy anyways and still to this day my car feels as if my wheel bearing goes out but not and like my steering gonna snap and I am trying coilovers now and hoping it works

hondad6

I took off the rotor and looked at the hub. No real corrosion, little normal surface rust. cleaned it with a wire brush. i will sand it clean next time it is off. Then to check rotor for warp, i bent the dust shield till it touched the rotor and spun it and the rotor moved away from the shield in two places. They were right across from each other. Like it is trying to turn into a taco shell. so i guess i will replace the rotor and see what happens.

LoveMyAccord

Let me know how it goes I am curious to know!!!

hondad6

So I'm still dealing with this problem. I sanded the hub down so no high spots anywhere. I have not been driving the car too much because i still have the CRX. I replaced the rotor again. brand new out of the box and it still wobbles like it is warped. previous owner had the wheel bearings replaced. Is it possible the shop installed the bearings wrong or warped the hub?

hondad6

No one had any experience with bent or warped front hubs.
if you watch the video in this post it is the exact same noise just not as loud. Not my video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxv-7...layer_embedded

Dogginator

Do you have a dial indicator? Check the runout on the hub.

hondad6

I dont have one so, I will have to get one or borrow one. Will do and report in. Watched a vid on how to do it so no problem. Thanks

luweee

Honda6 any update to this?
i have the same problem... im really thinking that I need to pull the rotors and do a 1 million percent clean of all rust etc. like is said below in this post.... just wondering what you have found.
thanks
Thad Maroon

wabo

have you found your problem?

i also have this noise when braking, change the rotor for a new one and it came back 2 days later...

i takes more time to do it when its freezing outside.

hondad6

Have your wheel bearings been changed? My problem was the hub was bent when the person changed my wheel bearings. Idk how it happened but I had to change the bearing and the hub to fix it. Not easy without a press but doable.