brad8266

I just wanted to post my fix for the 1457 code since I see mixed ideas about what causes it when I searched. Hopefully it helps anyone that may run into the same problem and searches here.

My first thing I did was replace the gas cap since its cheap and too easy, and I see people say that the gas cap would not throw 1457 but instead throw 1456 but I had 1457 and I replaced the cap and passed the OBD2 smog test and the code is still off.

Turbowa

Just as some info for you, the p1456 code is evap leak tank side (gas cap) the p1457 code is evap leak canister side. 9/10 this code is due to the cvs valse sticking or the whole canister being bad. I would be willing to bet that with in a couple of weeks that the light is going to come back on for the p1457 code. If I were you I would check the valve.

CVS stands for Canister Vent Solenoid.

Duane_in_Japan

Just for the archives I will add this in case someone else does a search for the 1457.

On several cases I have seen, the majority of the fix has been the cannister shut valve, then vent shut valve then vent solenoid. The major reason that I posted was because it may be possible that the EVAP system monitor has not completed in several test drives, sometimes the monitor does not run unless a specific drive cycle has been accomplished, I do hope yours is actually fixed but if it does come back, then refer to above. All of those were on OBDII Accords, Civics had other issues.

brad8266

I know all of that since I searched this site and got a lot of info on that code. I doubt it will come back on as I already passed the smog scan which means my ECU is in ready monitor mode and would have thrown the code if the problem was still there. In NY if the ECU is not in ready mode like right after you reset the ECU the scan will not pass you.

My next move was to test and replace the CVS but so far there is no need to do so.

My post was made to specificly address what you just said which is what I see repeated often. Before I replaced the cap the 1457 code would come on the next day after I reset the ECU. Now it hasnt come back on at all after many complete driving cycles so I doubt its coming back.

Duane_in_Japan

I went ahead and looked at the Civic info, most techs that responded to the request stated to replace the gas cap for your code, the job was actually taken to the dealer with no feedback to the original tech.

Eagleman

The canister vent shut valve or the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve could be the problem, as the culprits easily get corroded in geographic locations that use a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. Honda had to redesign the parts to address this problem.

TSB's ( Technical Service Bulletin's ) 01-011 ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve 98-99 models ) and 03-001 ( EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve 98-02 - depending on the model ) address these problems and explain that if left unchecked could damage the PCM ( computer module ). It has nothing to do with the gas cap as that would be a P1456 code.

If the car is a 97 Honda, the warranty on the emissions system has been extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles. See TSB 98-081 (97 only ).

The EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve is easy to find and replace youself. And if your lucky and can persuade the Dealer to fix it, they can replace it using goodwill ( free ). They don't do it always, but it can't hurt to ask. This is also mentioned in the TSB's.

But if you want to do it yourself, and it may take less time than bugging them, and is fairly simple. Just be careful of the two screws that hold it ( EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve ) in place as they are probobly badly corroded. Spray them with some break free, if they give you a hard time, rather than taking the chance at snapping them. But you won't know till you look at them, they may just come right out, but i just wanted to warn you. The bottom of the car get abused by all the rain and salt it is exposed to over the years.

I have all the TSB's as well as EVAP/ fuel system diagrams, if anyone needs them just contact me. The TSB's have good diagrams as well and show you a lot of detail.


Eagleman

jreinardy

Well, I have another shot at troubleshooting this. I'm not above trying the gas cap for the sake of gathering another data point. This will be a new adventure for me since i haven'e worked on this car yet. I'd appreciate any tips about location and removal of the several valves (I can find the gas cap myself ).

night

1456 is 99% of the time the 2-way valve / bypass solenoid from overfilling the tank
the 57 i rarely see. but i go with the purge valve as the most likely.

most of these things you can use a vacuum pump to see if they leak.

clipherd

would just like to add some support to brad8266's post. i got the 1457 code on my 99 accord. first tried to pull the fuse and reset the code... but it came on about 6miles later.

then i unscrewed my gas cap, heard the "hissing" sound to say that pressure was there so i had little hope that tightening it down further would help me.... but it seems to have fixed it. (must have only leaked at a high enough pressure??)

after tightening the gas cap really hard i have been driving ~400 miles on various city/highway mix and the code has not come back on yet.

will be buying a new cap from the dealer soon. (was warned not to buy one from a mcparts store which i use for most else)

i will be sure to post again if it comes back on.

thanks for this post brad!

clipherd

afraid i spoke too soon. the light is back on. the last time i went to change my gas there was no hiss, so i might still buy a new gas cap. i will keep this thread posted as to what my final fix was. fortunately i have until next feb. till inspection!

sri

I have same code 1457 on my 2004 honda odyssey. Changed Gas Cap and drove for 70 miles and i see Engine light again.
How much it would cost for fixing this issue can i drive the card till i fix this issue?

redbull-1

As mentioned in previous post, it has nothing to do with the gas cap. Probably the EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve. See TSB:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...0ww95Q&cad=rja

Probably looking at $80 - $100 for the part retail (as shops may mark-up the part too) and about half an hour labor, labor costs varies by where you live, etc. You can drive the car though; but, as previously posted, left unchecked it can damage the ECM/PCM. ECM/PCM is expensive.

chartack

What I found so far is my CVS valve did in fact activate but it wasn't completely closing the flow. The valve body was leaking to atmosphere (where the case is crimped together). Just for testing purposes I applied RTV around the CVS body and it sealed the leak (yes I will be purchasing a new one). My light did come back on though so the bypass valve may be bad also. Will take that out and get in on the bench shortly. My point is just cause the valve clicks doesn't mean it's ok.

homenet

Hello All!

I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 105667 miles on it.
Couple of weeks back I got check engine light, so I took to
my mechanic. Code is 1457. He suggested to replace the gas cap but what
I read here, it seems like gas cap will no help.
What is the most likely part of EVAP will be the culprit and easy/leas costly to change
at this time?

I will appreciate if anyone also give me the diagrams showing the various parts and their locations on the engine.

Thanks.

jcrawford06

Hello,

I was wondering if you still had those diagrams for EVAP system. A mechanic gave me a crazy expensive estimate so I wanted to change it myself. I have a 2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder.

Thanks
Jeff

Saldog

I have a 2000 Accord EX V6. A couple months ago the check engine came on (P1457) and my MPG dropped ~3.0. Reset code and tried replacing the gas cap even though it sounds like that's tied to P1456, but engine light came back on. Talked to a mechanic today and he thought I probably need to replace the entire canister and quoted me ~$400 to fix --- he wants to take a closer look next week though. From what I've read though, it could quite possibly be a CVS or solenoid valve. Not sure what to do???

vtech0010

i have found a few vent solenoid bad under the hood they cannot pull the tank down to vacuum. making the system think its got a leak. every time i get on of those codes not i go strait for the vent solenoid.

Saldog

vtech0010,
Interesting that you bring up a vent solenoid under the hood. A couple weeks ago I started to get a whining sound when accelerating that seems to be coming from the left side of the engine (just under the hood). The alternator is only 2 years old and I believe the transmission is fine (no slipping). So I thought maybe it's the power steering pump/pulley; however, that hasn't gotten louder while turning, no leaks, seems fine. Is a symptom of a bad vent solendoid a whining sound under the hood??? Can you tell me where the vent solenoid is located?

Thanks!

vtech0010

I have neever seen one that made a noise. the vent solenoid is on the driver side of the engine, right under the air filter housing on civics and for accords it is near the throttle cable bracket. it will have 2 hose coming off it.

Saldog

vtech0010,
Turns out the whining sound was the power steering pump. I'll replace that tonight and get back to the code 1457 problem. Code 1457 started about 3-4 months ago...the same time I replaced the tires. Since then, my mpg has dropped about 3 mpg. A mechanic told me this code shouldn't affect the gas mileage - it's more of an annoyance than anything - and said it could very well be the new tires or colder weather (Michigan). Do you have an opinion on this? Thanks.

pizzapop

I have a P1457 code. Engine will not crank during wet weather & cold. I leave a lit bulb under the hood overnight. Instant start the next day. Anyone know what part(s) should be replaced ? All opinions welcomed !

92hondaex4door

98 accord 4cyl. 1456 code, replaced gas cap with an OEM cap. no check engine light for over 3000 miles, came on and gone off a few times over the last couple weeks now. i plugged the 2 vent lines and hooked a smoke machine up to the line under the hood that goes to the canister. the only leak i found is coming from under the 2 way valve cover. i took off the cover and the leak is coming out of a 3 way splitter vaccum connector( there is nothing hooked to that part of the splitter). does this mean the 2 way valve is bad or the vent pressure sensor? or something else? by no means am i a great mechanic, i think i did the bare minimum here, what should i do next, car has 257,000 miles on it ... thanks, josh

Qfactor

move to a warmer state.

pizzapop

Did you rather meant a "warmer, DRYER state" ???

I suspect a sticky, gummy solenoid valve ! Yes/No ???

Maybe distributor cap gasket that the Honda dealer parts dept says "not available" !

Oxygen sensor !

Vaccuum line !

j894

I hate to kick up an old thread but wanted to throw in my $0.02.
2000 Accord EX 2.3L ULEV

I had code P1457 come up a a few weeks ago and have been researching it and trying to make sense of all the solenoids and valves associated with the evap. systems on these cars.

Anyway, I had this code and it wouldn't go away even after resetting it a few times. I first checked for loose vacuum hoses in the engine area as well as the canister area under neath the car, but found nothing, but I did smell a little gas right near the canister area. I read later on one of the forums that the canister solenoid can come apart and leak fumes, setting this code and requires a new canister vent solenoid (square valve mounted on the canister).

I ended up getting a used canister vent solenoid (along with the other valves/solenoids) used at a local junkyard, however I was unable to remove the 2 screws that hold it on the canister. Over 12 years and 191,000+ miles in northeast rustbelt have taken it's toll and the canister seems as if it will break before the screws come out. Not even vice grips would free the screws, as they just slip off take more and more material off the screw each time.

To make a long story short, in a desperate attempt to fix the leak instead of possibly breaking canister I loosened the canister and let it hang a little then smeared Ultra Black RTV silicone all around the seams of the canister vent solenoid, especially on the metal plate that sandwiches it together. Since letting the silicone dry and and resetting the battery the code has not come back. It's been about 5-6days, and a little over 100 miles of city/highway driving since I did tried this. I've driven all over with it including a few highway commutes, I don't see how the ECM wouldn't have run the test by now (the code was setting within 5-10 minutes of driving before).

I'll update this again if it comes back.

This is definitely not a fix all as there are too many parts to this system, but hopefully this helps someone.