ramco

I just installed a new CTR motor in my classic Mini(it had a B16A before), The CTR has no VTEC pressure sensor, I am thinking of grounding the wire, so the ECU thinks there is oil pressure (all the time). I was told by someone, to jump A4 (VTEC solenoid) to D6, (VTEC pressure). I am not so sure I trust this; it could damage the ECU. It would be easier to just ground the Pressure wire anyway, which is what the sender does, when there is oil pressure.
What do you think?
Thanks.

First.EG

a4 to d6 works fine my cars been like that for over a year.

0HAMOTORSPORTS

Jumping D6 to A4 works fine to get you by.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Useful diagram: http://phearable.net/tech/wiring/vtpsbypass.gif

ramco

thanks, looks like it is unanimous, but couldn't I ground the VTEC pressure wire to get the same result?

doc

No. The VTP Signal hast follow the VTS Signal to make the ECU work without a CEL.

Grounding the VTP Signal will only work until the VTEC kicks in - than it will throw a CEL cause the ECU does not "see" the VTEC (Oil-) Pressure.

ramco

OK, The Code light is not really an issue with our cars, they are not subject to inspection, via Age exemption. Most of our guys don't even have a code light on their cars.
So, how about just completing the VTEC pressure circuit, by splicing the connector wires trogether? I assume that is what the sender does internally anyway, when there is sufficient pressure. That would just simulate full oil pressure all the time, and the ECU would be happy.

Coupe-R

If you throw a VTP code you won't have vtec, so it will be an issue
Jumping the connector together doesn't work either, gives it just one voltage no doubt, so errors out and gives a code.

Just splice A4/D6 thats the correct way to do it and easiest

419integra

How would you bypass the switch on an obd2 usdm gsr?

Thunderwear420

Hi Guys, new member and I am sorry to resurrect a somewhat dead thread but I didn't want to make a new thread for something similar.

I recently bought my first Honda, a 2002 Accord EX 2.3L 4cyl ATX the girl who sold it to me said that it had a loud exhaust and a slipping transmission (Got it for $600 with 44k on the motor)

After the first test drive it was obvious the "loud exhaust" was a wheel bearing, fixed, done, drives great.

During my test drive I had no clue why she thought it was a slipping trans because it shifted like a dream only after I owned it and brought it home I noticed what she was talking about, during hard acceleration the motor wouldn't exceed 4k rpms and acts like its "hiccuping" and jerks back and forth, feather your foot off the throttle and it it shifts fine.

After my buddy and I pulled the codes for the CEL it gave us P1259 and after some research I have concluded it is the VTEC Pressure Switch the car has plenty of oil and it hasn't used or leaked a drop in almost 2k miles but not being able to exceed 4k is starting to get annoying especially when going up large hills.

So anyway.. sorry about the long winded explanation but being a Honda newbie I wasn't sure if this thread would work for my situation. Would jumping A4 and D6 fix this problem?

Any and all feedback is appreciated, even if what I am saying is way off base and you call me a dumbass I'll appreciate it because then I'll have learned something

Thank you.

First.EG

No ecu pinouts are different what you could try to do is jump the pressure switch on the engine it self. Jump the solenoid with the pressure switch one of the wires one the pressure switch is a ground if the first one doesn't work try the other one. IF YOU **** UP YOUR CAR THAT'S ON YOU!!!

tegonfire

Vtec bypass??no body or Jap really know hey???


I just buy a Jdm b18b into a black2001 USDM black leather GSR b18c1...


The ecu is a gsr 2001 OBD2b p72 and at first trow many code....

code 1337 cuz jdm dont have crank angle sensor...But when I read other forum it told me how to bypass this sensor and it dont trow 1337 anymore

I had no IAT cuz its a jdm engine I used a ebay resistor chip and shut down the code...

Now the only code left is vtec malfunction code 1259...
I can rev 8200rpm the first 5 sec that the car just started....
After that I hit a fuel cut off at 4800 rpm and the car bug like hell...


SO THE REAL QUESTION HERE IS THERE A WAY TO BYPASS THIS CODE 1259 VTEC MALFUNCTION????

PLZ IF YOU DONT KNOW DO NOT LEAVE MESSAGE THAT SCRAP THE FORUM AND TELL NOTHING GOOD!!!

I DONT WANT TO BUY A OBD1 P75 ECU AND A EPROM CHIP FROM EBAY TO REV 8200rpm(sound like a Ferrari)

MUST BE A WAY TO BYPASS THE ONLY CEL CODE LEFT 1259 ????

I already try to jump vtec pressure plug it dont work...
Any other idea I can try??

Jtkdirtbike

I just posted this on another thread Check your catalytic converter... I had the same problem up hills but it wouldnt go over 3 eventually and it continually got worse... the cat was clogged and after reaming it out (or you could get a new one) it fixed it I had a code 22 which is the obd1 version of your obd2 P1259 and after i cleared the cat the code went away and now it runs great... hope it helps

Jtkdirtbike

sorry I meant code 21