djslim23

I got my p2j ecu from Hmotors for those interested...so don't pm me lol

So, since there seems to be a relatively strong interest in this thread, I figured I'd start from square one..

A brief summary of what my setup includes:

1) *All in a '99 Civic LX Sedan*
2) 96-98 JDM D15B 3-stage vtec motor (99-00 are 3-stagers as well)
3) 96-00 D16Y5 m/t intake manifold, reusing all sensors from d15 (comes out of 96-00 civic HX m/t)
4) 99-00 D16Y7 engine harness (existing harness)
5) 96-98 JDM P2J-003 ECU (connected to 99-00 harness using cheap conversion harness)
6) My own wiring: EGR, knock sensor, IACV fix, vtec, and o2 sensor fix.
7) EGR solenoid for vacuum line leading to EGR (IN PROGRESS)



3/19/11 Update:
No CEL, only a slight bog when cold, but I attribute that to a slight vacuum leak that I have been putting off fixing (between intake mani and head).



The Car


The Motor: d16y7 (OBD2B)


The Hole


The Motor: JDM D15B Vtec from a 96-98 Civic Vti -- $850 shipped from HMotors





The Rare ECU: P2J-003 (OBD2A)



Swapped in: D15B VTEC (OBD2A)




Parts and Prices So Far...(in order (that I realized I needed it/them ))
Random things for swap - $50
Engine - $850
ECU - $200
Subharness (OBD2a to OBD2b) - $40
New soldering iron and wire and such stuff - $80
D16Y5 intake manifold and throttle body - $150 (hard to find in 5spd, out of Civic HX)
2-Wire IACV Plug - $10

Total so far: over $1300



Tech sheet: ---More to be added--- lazy right now


OBD2A IACV fix and Pinout






Everything that needs to be done:

1. Acquire a 96-00 d15b engine

2. Acquire a P2J-xxx ecu (P2J-003 for OBDIIa M/T, P2J-J11 for OBDIIb M/T, P2J-J61/J62 for ?)

3. See if your intake manifold has a 2 or 3 wire IACV (plastic doo-hicky on the back of the intake manifold)
------a. 3-wire IACV means you have an engine out of an automatic Civic Vti/Vi-RS and it will not work with manual ECU.
------b. 2-wire IACV means you have an engine out of a manual Civic Vti/Vi-RS (quite rare), and it will not work with automatic ECU.

*One way to solve this is to swap out the intake manifold completely, and since JDM d15b's aren't laying around in many junk yards, you'll probably need to go with a different one that fits. The d16y5 shares a similar if not the same intake manifold since it is a VTEC-E motor and has the EGR crap on it. You can find those in a 96-00 Civic HX (a little hard to find). Basically, you need to match manual IM to manual ECU and auto IM to auto ECU.* -I am still on this step and will need to update once I find more info..

4. Swap Motors and do regular swap related hooplah except for the wiring

5. Wiring
-----a. VTEC (2 solenoids)
++++++++2nd stage (16 Valve Mode) -- A21--red/green? test...
++++++++3rd stage (Vtec, same pin as USDM obd2a) -- A08--red/green? test...

b. EGR -- D9 (White/Black wire)
----- *Yellow/Blue wire taps into TPS sensor wire of same color
----- *Green/Black wire goes to junction connector in middle of engine bay
----- ***See update above regarding solenoid

c. O2 sensor (single wire) - depin your current O2 sensor plug on the plug side, then slide the pin in of the single wire sensor so that it lines up with the white wire on the engine side

d. Knock sensor

e. Lean Burn Mode (Econo Light in certain clusters) -- A30 (White/Red) to What pin location on the EK cluster???

When I get the correct info on this stuff, I'll edit it and leave it as a writeup since I've gone through hell and back finding out what I know so far.

Constantly Updated!

djslim23

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djslim23

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b18cKoupe

Good job on a useful thread, looking forward to more info

djslim23

Thank you. Hopefully there are some people here on H-T that can give some good info..there is so much contradicting advice out there on this engine.

Bump it upp

djslim23

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djslim23

updated...bump...going to tackle the wiring this weekend!

djslim23

UPdated

b18cKoupe

still watching,good stuff so far. lemme see if I can find an old thread on here, guy did a really nice job setting up this motor in a ek i believe.

djslim23

thanks bud. I know this info will be useful to someone.

Picked up my d16y5 intake mani today so it's off to the races! This thing could be done tonight!

Deetz

I have never seen any performance numbers for that engine, curious to see what it runs. Is it a 16 second car?

djslim23

I don't know what it could run, but it's about the same as the d16z6 at 130hp stock. Vtec-wise, it has the most aggressive cam of all the d-series'

djslim23

Just re-read your post, if you're talking about the d16y5, it's the vtec-e motor, basically the 3-stage d15b vtec without the vtec cam

Deetz

ok, well, i double checked the rated hp, it's 127hp and 102 ft lbs tq are the peak numbers of the power band

b18cKoupe

heres a good link, lots of info on the motor and unfortanately swapping it into an eg.

http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com...TEC/index.html

djslim23

Yeah that has good info, I have read it before

I put in the d16y5 intake and wired everything up and now have no* CEL , but I now have a hunting idle. I think I screwed up the vacuum lines somehow, hooked them up to the wrong places since the y5 intake's nipples are in different locations than the d15b's :doh: working on a fix tomorrow.

b18cKoupe

check the signal voltage at the map sensor at idle, if its over 1V you can assume a vacuum leak of some kind.

djslim23

thanks man, I'll give it a try. just need to replace my multimeter and give it a go

DCRB

In for updates! this is a planned project of mine in the future

speedracer1094

bump

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Nicely done. Thread subscribed. I'm interested in seeing the "ECONO" light in the cluster - first I've heard of this. Any pics of said cluster?

djslim23

thank you fellas..here's the cluster


Going to do some research on adapting the vacuum system to allow the d16y5 intake/tb to function on the d15b engine in a d16y7 bay!

Issues so far with the intake mani swap (d15b AUTO for d16y5 M/T):

EGR differences: y5 has no vacuum line, d15b does. they have different plugs

Intake differences: different MAP sensor (plug fits, just different part no.), different TPS (plug fits, possible different part no.)

*Have yet to swap the TPS since it's attached with pins on the y5 rather than screws like the d15b's.



I still need to map out the vacuum lines and check that everything is where it's supposed to be, after that I will either fix my multimeter or get a new one and check the map!

b18cKoupe

if you drill out the pins on the usdm tps to remove it you can then use the torx(if I remember right) screws to mount the new tps on the usdm throttlebody. For some reason all the jdm engines use screws for the tps sensor but usdm engines use the breakaway bolts. Also that map reading is critical, make sure you test it when you can. The map sensor is the single most influential sensor in the entire pgmfi system.

djslim23

Thank you sir, I'll remember that. Also, I will indeed test the MAP sensor, but I'm convinced it will give me a reading over 1V, which is why I haven't been in a hurry to do so. I plan to fiddle around with the lines and see what results I can get. I will be posting up pictures with what it looks like and what's not hooked up and whatnot at that stage. Thanks for staying aboard! Great info