pityocamptes

For a 1998 Honda Civic EX. I replaced the gas cap and it was off for about a few weeks. Came back today, cold morning, but the vehicle was filled up a couple days ago. Is it the solenoid by the canister? If so, which number(s) is it that I need to replace on the image below? Need to find out so I can order the parts. I pulled the fuse to reset the cel, as I don't want to burn the ECU out. Any help appreciated. Thanks!!

lawnguybri

First thing I would do is dig up the service manual. Google it, like everything else lol. Hondatech.info has one..the one I got is about 69 MB. Has everything; its in pdf format; use the find feature in the edit menu and search 'p1457'

Go through the troubleshoot guide for the p1457. You will need a vaccuum pump/guage, which an autozone or other parts store should be able to loan out.

Work through those first (you might not be able to test the two way valve back by the gas tank); read through the forums. try clicking the 'p1457' link at the bottom of related forums (like this one :p )

Good luck.

pityocamptes

My 1998 Honda Civic EX is throwing a P1457 code, which I have been told is emissions related. I recently (about two weeks ago) replaced the solenoid and valve components that are underneath the cover by the gas tank corner and rear tire. I cleaned up everything, connections, etc. used new vac hoses and clamps and reassembled the module. The CEL light went away. This morning it was cold and the CEL light came back. I guess the only thing left is the evap canister? Do those even go bad? What a colossal waste of money (solenoid module, etc was around $260.00 from Majestic Honda). Any help or assistance on narrowing this problem down would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks again!

Former User

Is the gas cap seal bad?

pityocamptes

Thanks Ron for responding. When the code originally came on, I had Autozone pull the code and the recommended going with the cheapest option, which was the gas cap. So, yes the gas cap is brand new. I replaced part #'s 2, 10, and 1 and the hoses in the following diagram:

Former User

The EVAP system can be tricky business. The service manual describes numerous tests to troubleshoot the code. In the end, you may want a shop to smoke test the system for a leak.

pityocamptes

So, in your opinion what else could it be? I try to do most of the work myself, if possible. Thanks.

pityocamptes

Where exactly is the Evaporative Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve located at? Is it on top of the solenoid (parts number 13 & 14) or is it on the intake manifold area? Thanks again!!

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...el%20Pipe%20(1)

pityocamptes

Ok, I found the service manual online and printed out the pages I need to test the evap shut valve and purge valve. Parts are getting too expensive to just guess. Thanks.

pityocamptes

I got a CEL P1457, which I have a thread on. I replaced some parts and the CEL was off for a while, but now it came back on. So instead of guessing and spending $$$ I don't have, I am on my way to the store to get a cheap vac pump.

This morning, when it was cold the CEL light came back on. I cleared the code and the light did not ome back on again, while driving. Here is my question: can a faulty part still be diagnosed and will it show up faulty if the cel has been cleared and more importantly if the cel only happens every blue moon??? My concern is going through the steps to diagnose the problem only to find nothing is wrong, because the part only craps out or sticks (valve) once in a while when outside temp, etc is just right.

Thoughts on this? I mean at what point do you just start replacing parts to get the cel to go away??? Thanks again!

Former User

Only one thread per topic - related threads merged.

pityocamptes

No problem. Sorry about that. Can anyone shed some light on the diagnosis, if this is only a once every week or two occurance? Will diagnosing the parts even show a defective part if the cel is not 100% on all the time? Thanks!

pityocamptes

Ok, if anyone can chime in that would be great!! I am reading some posts that the CEl P1457 can actually short out the ECU. Is this true? I know that when it came on I immediately cleared the code, and have done so until I got the parts (which I thought fixed it). never really drived any distance and the CEL code between original fault and fix maybe turned on 5 or 6 times. How would you know if the ECU is damaged, and what do those run? God, I hope that is not the problem...

Former User

Just start doing the troubleshooting in the service manual.

pityocamptes

Ok, here is what I did:

1. Checked the EVAP can vent shut valve, ign on, NO VAC

2. Proceeded to next step - jumped A29 to body ground - VAC YES

3. Next step - Engine was cold when I started this diagnostic so cold test checking for vac at EVAP control canister at 3000 rpm - NO VAC

4. Next step - Hot test, jacked up front end and let engine warm up again in neutral. After warming up to op temp, put tranny in 2 position (AT) and went to 3000 rpm - NO VAC

5. Turned ign off disconnected 2p connector on EVAP purge control solenoid, started engine, and checked for voltage between terminal 1 and 2 - voltage was POSITIVE at .13 - .14 volts. - VOLTAGE YES

6. Looked at vac hoses, they are fine, this final step says to replace the EVAP purge control solenoid valve.

So I guess I will be buying one of these. I followed the manual procedures, does everything sound right?

Also, when I had the vehicle front end raised up and in drive, after dropping the ABS light came on on the dash. Not sure what it was for. Trying pulling a code from the connector but no code (probably because the engine light was not on?). The jumper gave some weird numbers that I could not match up in my book. I ended up clearing the ABS code and starting the vehicle again, the ABS light did not return. Why in the hell would the ABS light come on? I hope it doesn't come back!!!! Thoughts? Thanks!!

Former User

Did you rewarm the engine for this step?

0.13-0.14V is about 100-times (edited) lower than normal battery voltage. So in step 5, the answer was BATTERY VOLTAGE - NO.

pityocamptes

I had it idle for a while. I may retest this step after driving around like I normally do. I thought the step was basically some voltage vs no voltage at all. So you are saying I should have twelve volts at the connector? Thanks.

Former User

The voltage you should measure at the connector should be close to the voltage that you read across the two battery posts with the warm engine idling.

pityocamptes

Ok, checked the next steps - I measured the voltage from terminal 1 to ground - I had 12 volts. VOLTAGE YES

Checked voltage between A15 and A10 - I have 12 volts. VOLTAGE YES

Now it is recommending a good ECM/PCM????


I don't understand this last part. The CEL only comes on once in a blue moon. After I replaced the components around the gas tank, the code stayed off for a couple of weeks, and came back only on a very cold morning. So if the PCM/ECU was bad wouldn't the CEL be on ALL THE TIME? Thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated on what may be causing the issue and how to fix it permanently!! Thanks!!

I did notice that when I pulled the gas cap today I really did not hear any pressure, but its been cold outside so maybe that is a factor?

Former User

Did you redo the voltage measurement between terminal 1 and 2? Did the low voltage issue repeat?

pityocamptes

Yes. It was around .15 volts. The vehicle was hot, worked on it about 30 min after getting home from work. I let it idle for another 15 minutes and even turned the AC on thinking it would heat up the engine. The engine fan never came on, but the temp gauge on the dash was 1/2 way - so I assume that this was sufficient to test the vehicle?

pityocamptes

I have access to a autoxray ax7000 bidirectional scanner - would this come in handy? If so please let me know. Thanks!!

Former User

Your results are clear cut without the scanner.

The test results are clearly pointing to a bad ECU.

The EVAP purge solenoid gets voltage from fuse 15 on the Blk/Yel wire (IG1) and ground for this voltage from the ECU on the Red/Yel wire (PCS). This type of circuit allows the ECU to control when the purge valve is open or closed. Your ECU has lost the ability to do this because it is unable to provide ground to voltage from fuse 15.

pityocamptes

So this circuit only works once in a while, this the occasional CEL? I see some companies that will fix ECU's or they sell refurbished units for around $300. The question I have is can this problem be fixed by a company, or will I need a refurbished unit, and if I need a refurbished unit do they flash the new unit with my VIN and mileage? I assume that this info is stored in the ECU (which is the big metal box under the pass kick panel, correct?) Is it possible to fix this circuit myself? I'm pretty good at electronics, or is this a chip issue? I'm sure the ECU has micro parts as well... any additional info would be great.

Oh, I really could care less if the light is on, I just wonder if I can clear the CEL before I go to emissions and still expect to pass??? Thanks!

pityocamptes

So you don't think its the canister or valve on the canister? Damn... this sucks...