Whatislove

Attachment 537167


Whats the best way to remove that? I plan on drilling out where its welded but some places are hard to reach with a drill bit. What other method can I use to remove the damaged section?

Builda'Teg_92

If you can get a air chisle into tight spots that can break some spot welds.

Whatislove

Dont have access to air tools. Would a putty knife and hammer work?

Disease

Grind all the welds off. Will come off easy. Grinders can be found for cheap. Or drill the spot welds out. An electric drill can be found for cheap too.

Whatislove

I plan on drilling them out. I have the equipment for that. I'm asking about hard to reach places that a drill cant touch.

AztecEGhatch

No, this will do more damage.

no, you need this http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1801

drill out the spot welds, then use a pry bar and slowly work around the rad support (dont just rip it off one side then go to the other, try to remove it at once) you can use a grinder to grind down the spot welds too but using the bit is cleaner and quicker.

AztecEGhatch

also, be sure to measure the bay for squareness. if it is off you need to have your frame rails professionally pulled (ICAR says 3mm tolerance for unibody, 5 for body-on-frame) otherwise the panels will never line up right and it will not perform properly in another collision

jasoncrashtech

you need to pull that core support before you grind the spot welds off.

AztecEGhatch

...............nooooo he needs to grind the spot welds to pul the core support off

Whatislove

I have a minor dent on the driver side frame rail where the bumper core is attached, I will take it to a shop and get it pulled after I remove the radiator mount. Might have them weld a new rad support back in if they can do it for one hour labor charge otherwise I will just bolt it on.

And damn is that bit expensive, probably half the labor cost of paying a shop to do it

AztecEGhatch

yeah their ***** expensive, you can probably get away with a cheaper one since you're just using it once.. there has to be a Harbor Freight version

Disease

Are you really going to bolt the rad support on?

jasoncrashtech

yyyyyeeeeeessssssssssss he needs to pull the core support. the aprons are probably spread out from the core support folding like it did.

are you inexperienced acting like you know what your talking about or what ???????????

thats always the first step when you do a core support. pull to bring the surrounding area's back in spec (frame time if needed for set up and measure) remove damage, test fit, cross check with a tram gauge or measuring stick.

AztecEGhatch

actually I just misread, when you said "pull the core support" I figured you meant pull it off, then drill the welds.. Im sure you can see how that didn't make sense to me. And yes I am experienced, Collision Repair major

gorillafart

iTrader: (1)

seeing as how the radiator core support is damaged anyways, he can use an air chisel to remove more crap that is going to be replaced, if he knows what he's doing that is.


but if the problem is, no accessibility because the drill is too big to fit into tight places... a grinding wheel works with grinding off welds.. if u cant get that in either, then you gota start taking out engine components to gain access.

Whatislove

Yeah, I'm thinking about it. People do this. If I'm going to make holes drilling it out I might as well save some shop labor and bolt in place, like 30 bolts probably or at least one for each hole I drill out


To clarify, I need to remove the core support, take the car to a body shop to get the frame pulled and then install a new rad support.

Frame damage


Replacement core
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260943987712...84.m1423.l2649

mikemonster

STOP!!!

Have you talked to the body shop that you are planning on taking your car to ("after" you cut out the rad. support) to pull your frame???

I suggest you do that BEFORE you do any more damage to your car.

Jasoncrashtech is right when he said If you cut out the support first the tension on the surrounding frame and body will cause everything to move making it very difficult to realign the frame and get fitment of your replacement parts.

From what can be seen in the pictures it appears that the damage is impact center front from drivers side toward passenger side some. This means that the frame is most likely pushed to the passenger side some (as seen in the way the rad support pulled away from the frame on the drivers side) as well as toed in. The frame picture with the "minor dent on the frame rail" shows the frame maybe twisted a bit and pushed down some.


Sorry to be blunt BUT-You clearly don't have a clue about doing body work and are trying to save money. What will happen if you continue with your plans is you will either end up with a botched looking job or paying a shop way more than you would have had you just taken your car to a shop in the first place.


mike

Whatislove

So then I'll take it to a shop first. no big deal

mikemonster

Good plan.

Since you will probably have to trailer the car around suggest that you check around your area for recomendations on a few body shops. Then hit them all. Don't mention the estimates between shops or that body shop X said this or that needed fixing. ( you should ask about repairs others suggest just don't say shop X said it needed it)

Just gather the information and quotes and ask questions like " is there work I can do to help keep the cost down?"

Assuming your insurance isn't covering this anyway, tell them you are paying for it yourself, maybe they will take payments or you can clean up around the shop for a break on the price... who knows.

good luck....

Whatislove

There is a shop 2 miles from me that did work on the car before under insurance. I will mount a new radiator and drive it over there.

I only want them to straighten out the frame, no body work.

I'm going to ghetto fix this car, already got a brand new $50 hood and bumper cover. need $200 more parts, found one guy giving away a free bumper core.


I was planning on doing more work to the car, coil overs, sway bars but then some dipshit kids hit my car with golfballs and cracked the paint in 2 placed and then RIGHT as I was making plans to do a paint refresh got hit by hail. + parking it in the city the car has a few more door dings and bumper impacts. Soooo... I'm done trying to take care of my car, now its just returning it to drivable conditions. I'll probably spray it with plastic dip.

ahuynh12

what drill bit did you use? im thinkin about using a spot weld cutter? any suggestions? thanks in advance

Jam jdm

i actually just did this..spot welder works for where the metal is thinner but as u get down to the bottom its get harder to go through...i used a pry bar hammer and flat screwdriver. The flat head worked really well, came out pretty clean. The work is tedious already but still wouldn't take long.

bks84

iTrader: (9)

I switched from spot weld bits to a handheld belt sander. got it at northern tool for $60 prevents from drilling all the way through especially if you dont wanna