TerrenceDinesen

Hey guys i just dropped my car off to my mechanic who swapped out my motor, vtec quit working out of nowhere but the car did not go into limpmode. codes so far are 7, 20, 21, 22, 40 the computer looks kinda rough but the car ran great when i first picked it up also replaced the wiring harness do i need a new computer? my mechanic just used the old stock ecu any ideas why this happens or what to look for? the throttle body is a bbk 80mil racing type which also sticks sometimes so i thought that also could be screwing with it any suggestions are helpful thanks guys

TerrenceDinesen

sorry guys i meant code 41 now i had to etest it could that have fried the o2 sensor?

nealnanoHX

Few things. The GSR motor as a dual runner intake and needs a GSR ECU or ECU modified to operate the GSR intake. The B18C1 motor will not run correctly on a D series ECU tune and unless you have a EX Civic then you dont have a Vtec ECU and Vtec will not work no matter what unless you add Vtec to it. A 80mm TB is way way to big even for a boost GSR, put the stock GSR TB back on the motor.
Code 7 TPS sensor, could be from the TB sticking
20 electronic load detector, no idea need to check computer at work for this one
21 Vtec control solenoid
22 Vtec pressure solenoid
40 cant find any info on code 40 on 41 which is heated O2 sensor

HondaPartsHero

If its throwing 21 & 22 it has to be some ECU for that uses VTEC. Did he wire up VTEC?

TerrenceDinesen

yes i know about the computer, which is why i asked my mechanic he said he wired it up to engage at 3600rpm and it did work at first then one day while driving from 2nd gr to 3rd gr i shifted at about 6500, but when i het the clutch foot off gas it kept on revving right up to 8500 to the limiter then dropped. seemed like the vtec quit after that i think it happend 2 times. and i apologize its my first honda its a ex embarrassing lol

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I'd like to know how you wire up VTEC for a certain RPM.

TerrenceDinesen

dont ask me but all these guys do is swaps ive watched them swap out motors in under 2hrs now that doesnt say much because anybody can do things quick but quality is more important. he just said thats what he did on my tack it was ingaGING around 4500. i bought the car with a b18 in it but it was in limp mode. first mistake. drove it around trying to fix 2nd mistake. motor blew up so i dropped a much fresher gsr into it has about 100k on it. i think im gonna go change the tb and computer i hope this isnt the 3rd mistake im making but im already 3000$ deep and cant afford another ride also live in canada and the **** aint cheap up here

D16SiHatch

i'd bet either he is full of ****, or he used a rpm activated switch for vtec, which is only like 2 marginal steps better than the previous option.

ej1 rep

I think you need a new mechanic, sounds seriously shady

TerrenceDinesen

yea ive thought about that but when ever i bring up my issue to a local mechanic they just scratch there heads or tell me that were getting into a so called "can of worms" as one guy put it. unfortunatley these guys have been the only ones to really give me the time of day ive already paid them 2000G for the motor, the re n re, saf e-test so there working on it for free right now

TerrenceDinesen

i think ej1 rep was right when i got my car back from the mechanic today he put a new ecu into it and the stock throttle body, vtec still wont engage and idle is still high. the new computer says p75 on it under the bar code correct me if im wrong but isnt that the non vtec ecu? aaswell he left the old ecu in the car and it says in the same spot p72 help me out guys im getting so frustrated im almost ready to sacrifice my wallet and go to the dealer what do yall think ?

TerrenceDinesen

oh i forgot comp isnt throwing those codes either for the vtec not operating only code 7 and code 41 so what i did was switched back to the old ecu code 7 cleared but the vtec codes 20 21 came back! car also runs more agressive on this ecu still throws 41 and i forgot to mention that since i got it back, when or if i floor it engine cuts out at like 5k hard to explain but its not like a rev limiter becasue instead of bounceing its more like a jolt until i let off the gas then if i gas it again it just cuts out again do you guys think that maybe its actual mechanical? i cant tell if my comp is ****ed or not thanks guys and rememebr vtec worked when i first got it, and only quit working about a week later i have a strange feeling it might be the solenoid anything helps

TerrenceDinesen

bump

TerrenceDinesen

bump

TerrenceDinesen

bump

canadaek

sounds like your getting screwed and they don't have a clue what there doing. where in Canada are you ? p75 is an ls ecu they don't have vtec so it won't throw those codes is the motor jdm ? if so it won't have a vtec oil pressure switch make sure they plugged your vtec solenoid in it's located just behind the dizzy sounds like it could be bad if it worked then quit and they likely didn't hook up your secondary o2 sensor . they sound like hacks probly best not to let them touch your car .

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

vtec and vtec pressure switch - #1 and #2
(passenger side Civic harness)

vtec i believe #1 - runs to slot A4 on your ECU.
Vtec pressure switch #2 - Runs to slot D6 on your ECU.

(correct me if i'm wrong about the #1 and #2 slots)

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Wrona

i think you should stop taking it to this person and do it yourself a P75 Is the LS ECU non-vtec wont run the butterflies in the manifold

when you put a bigger throttlebody you have to port match the intake manifold for it...

you need a p72 or a Chipped P28 with the GSR Basemap

if you have a EX civic than that is already wired up for Vtec get a OBD1 P72 ECU and tell this dude to F*ck off thats putting it lightly

vanboxer

wow seems to be really complicated.

760jdm95_ej1

yea get a new mechanic.

TerrenceDinesen

hey thanks alot guys ill chaeck that out i replaced back to the stock tb and its idleing way better, also running better vettech still doesnt work but car will rev limit also the computer they did the swap with originally is a p72 and i dont think they even new i live in ontario, if anyone out there has a good mechanic help a brother out because around peterborough where i live ppl just laugh when i tell them my problems.
thanks for all the help i think im going to try a new p28 or p72 i dont know if i mentioned it but vtec worked with the engine light on when i first got it

TerrenceDinesen

thanks blackcivicex im going to check those wires also on market place gonna get another p72 you guys have any idea why it would cut out when i slam the pedal to the floor but when i push it gradually it will go right to red line? is that because of tps sensor? im getting that code.

TerrenceDinesen

ok, i feel like a idiot and sorry for wasting anyones time X( i followed those wires from the above posted pic and they are not even plugged into the ecu. at first they must have been because my vtec did engage quite nicely, however right before it stopped working i installed my subs, and to run the wires i had to move the ecu DOH!#@%$ so tomorrow im going to radioshack to get some new pins for the harness and hopefully godwilling it will work once more i will let you guys know if this solves the mystery.

TerrenceDinesen

vtec finally works used the faq page and rewired it pulls hard love it car still stutters at full throttle
any ideas ? distributer plugs and wires are good fuel pump ? only codes are tps eld and o2 sensor