m00genwant2b

I currently making a budget build to have some fun and to try to beat my buddies stock sti. I need some help on where to go. The parts I have now.

Car I got a 91 civic hatch body solid but need a paint job and to be finished assembled price (FREE)
Engine B20b got it from helping my uncle price (FREE)
Transmission B16 from friend wreck si price (free)
Also have pauter rods and weisco piston for (free) from another friend as left over
And I have a budget of $3,000 and need the best bang for the buck. And as for a turbo kit I got a complete greddy turbo kit for $500.00

blackeg

You are going to hate life with a cable b16 trans on a stock head b20 engine. Too tight gearing in my opinion. You will probably redline in 4th at or before you would go through the graps in the 1/4 mile..

What turbo is with that greddy kit? It seems like you have a good start and some cash to spend. Don't forget about other things like machine work, clutch upgrade, motor mounts ecu and tuning

m00genwant2b

It is a 18g turbo. And I have a clutch master stage 3 from my brother inlaw. I also wanted to know if a block guard would be a good idea and if so what brand? And I want to make at least 250hp to the wheel. Any advice and options will be yearly appreciated

540dude

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you got the hookups
250whp will definitely be achievable. Make sure you take it to a good tuner. What ECU are you currently running?

m00genwant2b

I got an extra obd1 that we were planning on tuning it by Crome .I also have an obx type r replica intake manifold.

nealnanoHX

I would take the $3000 and put it into a Vtec head, CTR cams, ID780cc injectors, ITR intake or SK2 Pro intake, S300 or RTP for tuning and a good tune and ARP head studs. I would also have the 18G turbo checked out and rebuilt if needed. You already have pistons and rods covered. Being a B20 I would say yes to a good block guard to help keep the thin sleeves from twisting under boost, sleeving the block is always best. This is within a $3000 budget and will get you more whp on the same boost, Vtec heads flow way better than the P75. Sell the B16 trans to someone looking to go all motor and get yourself a Ls hydro trans and cable to hydro conversion. The B16 trans is pretty short and will not be very good for boost, the longer gearing of the Ls trans keeps you in boost for longer and will require less shifting.

crvtectim

I disagree with pretty much all of that. ^

If I were only shooting for 250whp, I'd do it on completely stock internals with some ARP hardware. That's it.

terbear4god

agreed rod bolts,head studs and your good too go just pick up a good turbo setup and pow

and a good tuner is a must

block gaurds are worthless! your stock sleeves are fine for 250whp

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I agree to disagree with that post. Lol ls is best cause you shift less really? I agree with keep it simple use what you have and spend the money on the tune and all the odds youll have to buy down this journey. I wish I had an uncle and friends like yours

nealnanoHX

You will shift less with a LS trans compared to a B16 trans as well as stay in boost longer with the longer geared LS trans. In a 1/4 mile drag a GSR or B16 trans that is running lets say mid 13's a B16 trans will trap in 5 gear while the LS trans will just be running out of 4th gear. The gearing in the LS trans is better for boost. In a NA B series shorter gearing is better because it keeps you in the short power band. A boosted B series will have a much larger power band and make more power in the mid rpms than NA. With the short geared trans with boost you need to shift right after peak boost is normally made, the BOV vents all the boost and you need to build up boost again. Longer gearing keeps you in the boost for longer because you dont need to shift so soon. A simpler way to put it is would you rather be at peak boost for 1/2 second or 1 1/2 seconds (just an example). And the OP said at least 250whp and why should he use the stock rods and pistons when he already has forged ready to go?? The B20 is not the most boost friendly of the B family. I say if you have the parts and the funds to build a stronger motor then go for it. Like I said with a Vtec head and CTR cams the B20 can put some numbers down under boost and tq to match it. I said use a Vtec head because you can get more top end out of the B20 as well as take advantage of the turbos want for higher rpms.

Dyce

Every1 is jumping to conclusions without knowing all of the details. First of all you said that you have forged pistons and rods from a friend. What motor did they even come out of? Because unless they came from another b20 then those parts are worthless

From experience, the b16 tranny should be replaced with a gsr or type r transmission.The gears in a b16 trans were way too short for even my stock b20. This whole LS tranny thing is just a theory. I raced my friends stock LS-T against my stock b20-T with gsr transmission and i ran faster than he did.

For 7 months now i have been running a completely stock b20 with just upgraded injectors + fuelpump and made close 230whp. I am planning for arp hardware in the future though. My setup has beaten STI's and Evo's as-is without the use of a vtec head

phaphon

you got alot of nice stuff for free..but yeah if the rods and pistons are for a b20 then just put that on with arp headstuds and put the rest of the money into stuff like a fuel pump injectors and etc...

germ8998

If you want the best bang for your buck, and your only trying to reach 250whp then $3000 is enough to achieve your goal.

if you want goo info look through the turbo ls thread, theres more than enough information for you to read from so you can decide on what you want to do.

I i read right, then you already have a turbo kit? Well if not id pick up a inlinr pro log style turbo manifold, if your not even trying to break 300whp then that manifold will be more than enough to accomplish what your trying to do.

About the trans.....i would stick to a gsr trans or a ITR trans, but for more bang for your buck go for the gsr(its cheaper) the ls is a good trans, thats if your were spitting out more than 350whp, with only 250whp its not gonna help you much, with the gsr trans you get great acceleration and with the gear setup it will put you in peak torque in the higher gear...oh and btw the ls trans has a long 5th gear and with applying so much of a load to such a long gear it wont be long before it starts to grind...but others will say otherwise

crvtectim

*sigh*

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

X2

RESPerformance

I disagree with all of u but Phaphon if the b20runs properly leave short block alone just head stud it. As far as 250whp idk bc if its a greddy low hp non intercooled no way
Intercool it and tuned properly at 10ish psi u should have no problem.

Ive ran an oem rebuilt b20turbo hard at 10.4psi for a long time in my dd
Its on e85 15degrees timing with .57 trim. Super reliable.

As for the tranny at he end of the day it really doesnt matter on a street low hp setup b16 will rev up fast and pull power very well through every gear anything more than that i guess becomes personal preferance. U will always be in or near powerband bc of it and 18g isnt exactly big either so quick revs and spool sounds fun imo.

RESPerformance

Anything more than 300hp ur gna want arp rods bolts resize rods may as well hone and or bore get new pistons ring and bearing new wpump oil pump and reseal engine at that point too.

Please dont let people mislead u with internet b20 myths.
Ive turboed a bunch of them with amazing results

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah listen to this guy. Check out his pointless thread up top too its full of great tech info.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

m00genwant2b

Ok to be more clear on the pistons it's for the b20 that a friend bought then sold the car and I traded a valve cover for them. That was free anyway. Shipping the motor out to sleeve might cost a little more. I live on the big island of Hawaii and we are mostly limited to what people have or to pay the big price for shipping. Like for example we pay fo shipping as much as we pay for the part. I ordered a part for $40.00 and it cost me $55.00 to ship it. But all the info is helping.

So as for the block guard that should be thrown out the window.

And the only thing that people tune here is Crome,hondata,and Aem but the price is rather up there. There's a guy on our local craigslist selling a complete b16 head with all sensors and distributor for $300.00 would it be worth buying the buying all the other parts to complete the b20.

And fo another example on my island people think that rota is the name brand and everything else is duplicate of them. I seen a set of rota trackR's go for $1,600 and sold then when I was selling my advan rg1 for $2,000 with tires they said I was a rip off....

If anyone has time try look at craigslist Hawaii then click on big island and see how high the price is.