wildoutwhitegsr

First things first, you have to determine if your FITV needs cleaning. Now if you’ve never done it before it probably does unless you bought a complete new one.

Reasons why you should take it apart and cleaning it:

-High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm
-Lumpy idle
-Roaming idle
-Hunting idle
-Fluctuating idle


Tools Needed:

Ratchet
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
Pliers
Flathead Screwdriver
Throttle Body Cleaner or Brake Cleaner
Paper Towels
A cooled down engine for at least 2 hours

1) Now you got to locate where the FITV is. If your car is 1996 and newer you don’t have one. But for the older Gen 3 models like me, we do. Pop your hood and it’s located directly beneath the throttle body. It’s actually connected to it.

Attached to the FITV is one coolant line. This is how it looks with the intake on



This is how it looks with the intake removed



2) Now that we’ve located it, Remove your intake and strut tower bar (if applicable). Next remove the one coolant hose that is attached to it, using the pliers to loosen the clip. Have lots paper towels underneath to catch the coolant when it leaks out.



3) Next is to remove the three 10mm bolts located at the bottom of the FITV. **Note the intake manifold here is upside down to make it easier for you to see**



After it is removed from the engine it should look like this



Now spin it around to located the two 8mm bolts



4) After you located those two bolts remove them carefully and you should be left with this. Sorry for the blurry picture, I was cold and shivering.



5) Now unscrew it with a screwdriver





You should be left with this



6) Now take it apart and give it a good cleaning with the throttle body or brake cleaner. This is what we should have taken apart so far minus the cap and two 8mm bolts



Before





After



Semi put back together and cleaned



All cleaned up and back together



7) Clean up the inside of the FITV body like so



8) Now screw it all the way back in or back to where it was before if your car idles fine.





Side view shot through the hole. It isn’t screwed in all the way since my car idles fine at that position. Screw it in more if your car idles to high. The opposite if it idles to low.



9) Now put the cap back on and tighten the two 8mm bolts back down.



10) Reinstall the FITV back on your car following steps backwards from step 3 to step 1




Good Luck


Modified by wildoutwhitegsr at 1:02 AM 3/19/2006

Sam92Teg

I'm confused. I thought the FITV--Fast Idle Thermo Valve was supposed to raise your idle when the engine is cold, that's its purpose, and then when the engine warms up, the valve closes and has no impact on idle at all.

The IACV--Idle Air Control Valve impacts the idle speed at operating temp.

Hmm, now that I think about it, if the FITV doesn't close when the temp rises, then that would create a vacuum leak and therefore negatively impact the idle. I do believe that more idle problems would be from the IACV than the FITV.

Nice write up.

Dartanian

Good writeup.

In the Helm's, it states that it shouldn't be disassembled, just replaced when it is suspected to have gone bad. I guess you proved that wrong.

The big question is...did it fix your problem?

Deano_D aka "Brick Top"

This can also cause a pulsating idle after the car is warmed up, good write.

wildoutwhitegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm confused. I thought the FITV--Fast Idle Thermo Valve was supposed to raise your idle when the engine is cold, that's its purpose, and then when the engine warms up, the valve closes and has no impact on idle at all.

The IACV--Idle Air Control Valve impacts the idle speed at operating temp.

Hmm, now that I think about it, if the FITV doesn't close when the temp rises, then that would create a vacuum leak and therefore negatively impact the idle. I do believe that more idle problems would be from the IACV than the FITV.

Nice write up. </TD></TR></TABLE>


You are correct

You'd be surprised at how many problems are due to a clogged or dirty FITV. It would seem that the IACV would be more problem, but that's only because they got rid of the FITV in newer models. I believe it's 96 and up (OBD2) vehicles. So for us OBD1 and OBD0 cars this is our main problem. I shall have a how-to on how to clean the IACV soon.

wildoutwhitegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Das Schmoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good writeup.

In the Helm's, it states that it shouldn't be disassembled, just replaced when it is suspected to have gone bad. I guess you proved that wrong.

The big question is...did it fix your problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never had a problem with my FITV, I just decided to do a write up to help out the other members with there idle problems.

Elbowpunk

So can this work on a 91 integra ... like the same bolts and ****, but jsut in a different location ??

Dartanian

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildoutwhitegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I never had a problem with my FITV, I just decided to do a write up to help out the other members with there idle problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, ok. Good stuff.

wildoutwhitegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elbowpunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So can this work on a 91 integra ... like the same bolts and ****, but jsut in a different location ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

The FITV is in the same location. I believe it still the same 3 bolts you need to loosen. Maybe another Gen 2 member can confirm that for you.

CNSK

nice write up....I have a skunk2 throttle that doesnt have a fitv but my car flucuates... havent had a chance to really dig the problem and correct it...maybe its my iacv...

Blue Hybrid

nice write up, works for b16's too : )

4potnick

yup. I have had this problem on my b17. changed pcv and iacv with no help. fitv is next.

reno96teg

umm.. this:
"High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm"

is normal.

unless you mean, too fast?

-Todd-

Good write up, i'll be doing this shortly.

J.nguyen

omfg......... ive been lookin everywhere/ DOING everything to FIND OUT WHY my car IDLES so wierd when its COLD.. then when its warmed up its Fine but sometimes the ocassional Vacum leaks at a stop light or neutral rolling down a hill... MAYBE this iS how to FIX IT... buut that looks like a GSR motor.. im LS b18b is it the same??

wildoutwhitegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reno96teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm.. this:
"High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm"

is normal.

unless you mean, too fast?</TD></TR></TABLE>


It's normal in really cold weather, but some peoples cars do it during the summer months as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JesDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omfg......... ive been lookin everywhere/ DOING everything to FIND OUT WHY my car IDLES so wierd when its COLD.. then when its warmed up its Fine but sometimes the ocassional Vacum leaks at a stop light or neutral rolling down a hill... MAYBE this iS how to FIX IT... buut that looks like a GSR motor.. im LS b18b is it the same??</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a any honda/acura that's OBDI or made before 1996 you'll have a FITV

4potnick

my car always does it regardless of temp outside and once it warms it idles about 1000 and fluctuates to 1200. new iacv and pcv

wildoutwhitegsr

sounds like your FITV. Give it a shot and let us know if it fixes your problem

BLUE EH3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildoutwhitegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like your FITV. Give it a shot and let us know if it fixes your problem</TD></TR></TABLE> howbout 96+

no2unenolife

^ i'd try the IACV

IlIkEg's

WORD.

Just attempted to do this the other day and discovered that the screw inside was backed all the way out so it was just chillin in there not working at all. And to think for about 4 months i've been driving around with idle problems, all because of 1 fuggin screw.

wildoutwhitegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> howbout 96+</TD></TR></TABLE>

96+ is controlled by the ECU. So thru process of elimination all you have is your IACV left

kochtravis

My 94 gsr fluctuates from 1200 to 2900. I thought this may have been the problem, but I cleaned it yesterday and am having the same problem. Any suggestions on where to go next?

wildoutwhitegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koch.travis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 94 gsr fluctuates from 1200 to 2900. I thought this may have been the problem, but I cleaned it yesterday and am having the same problem. Any suggestions on where to go next?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Idle problems ignition related check spark plugs, spark plug wires & distributor.
Idle problems coolant related check thermostat, Coolant Temp Sensor, FITV & IACV.
Idle problems fuel related check fuel filter, main fuel relay & fuel injectors.
Idle problems vacuum related check throttle body gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket and all vacuum hoses.

Blue Hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koch.travis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 94 gsr fluctuates from 1200 to 2900. I thought this may have been the problem, but I cleaned it yesterday and am having the same problem. Any suggestions on where to go next?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would check the idle air control valve, or like the other guy said, sounds like a vaccum leak