brandon400hp

I just rebuilt my 2001 civic LX automatic transmission, got it all back in the car took it for a drive and it went about 5 blocks before it started slipping again to the point that I could no longer go forward or back. It was in the same state that it was before I rebuilt it.

I replaced all the clutch packs along with all new fluid.

Now the weird thing is that after the car cooled down I was able to drive it again. I whines real bad like it whined before the transmission went out the first time.

Sounded like it was a solenoid issue so i tested all of them... all of them but the top read really close to 15 ohms except for the top one, it reads 16.1 ohms I was wondering if that is out of spec. or if anybody knows what I should be checking. I also applied 12 volts to the solenoids and can hear them click.

Wonder what you guys think. Let me know

David @ Synchrotech

iTrader: (1)

Did you change the torque converter?

brandon400hp

No, I did not replace the torque converter, its the original... I did drain most of the fluid out of it when it was out though.

I guess I did forget to say that one of the clutch packs was pretty worn down and burnt compared to the rest of the packs.

cdaiscool

Torque Converter is most likely shot. It's what happened to an old Civic on mine as well.

brandon400hp

Thanks I will let you know how it works...
Do you recommend a used one?

Mista Bone

if the TC was bad you might have just ruined your rebuild.

Being cheap can be costly.

brandon400hp

I was really easy on the test drive... I hope it didn't trash my rebuild.

Does any body know exactly what happened to the torque converter, like why it went out, and what exactly it stopped doing?

brandon400hp

I decided not to replace the torque converter. I was pretty sure that i was going to just keep pulling the transmission, replace a part put it back together pour more $8.00 a quart ATF in it, find out that didn't fix it, and repeat the process over with a different part every time. I'm not one for being a parts replacer.

I bought a remanned trans from Syncrotech http://www.synchrotech-transmissions.com/. They also tore my transmission apart and found that the bushing in the main shaft was bad. Thanks guys

shillow

Brandon, I'm thinking about tackling this on my 03 civic. Did you have to purchase any specialty tools to complete the job? Also, how's your new remanned transmission holding up so far? Thanks for any advice.

brandon400hp

All I really had to do was rig up something to hold my engine up when i pulled the cradle and transmission. The transmission seemed to be slipping when the fluid was cold, but i read somewhere that a tranny will slip when cold if there is restricted line pressure. The remanned trans did come with an inline filter (im thinking that might have been it). All in all I sold the car a few months after doing all this and bought a 5 speed crv.

On a side note honda's have a amazing resale value when they have a warranty on the only part that fails... the automatic transmission.

Gt limited(jdm approved)

oh because i know torque converters dont damage so easily..

shillow

I was seroiusly thinking about taking on the rebuild but since there is little to no DIY posts on the Auto Trany I'll probably just go your route with Syncrotech and hope for the best. It's amazing how much trouble these transmissions have. Mine isn't too bad right now so I'll keep driving it until it gets bad and then just get a rebuilt transmission. Thanks for the response.

tony_2018

I just want to update this thread with some info. When rebulding the clutch packs you should also consider checking the valve bodies, check for clearance on the main shaft and counter shaft. You already have it open so get that done as well. Also the bearings are really important and require tools to pull out, blind hole bearing puller is what it is called. Inside the clutch packs there is a disk called the piston disk that has o-rings inside and outside of it, you will need a clutch spring compressor and an air tool to remove it properly and replace those o-rings. A honda tooll is needed to help you torque the big nut on the main shaft, main shaft holder tool. You must not use an impact gun for this or else you will end up buying another main shaft. All of these tools added up would run close to 500 dollars. I did consider rebuilding mine but I will go the synchrotech route because of cost wise. I will also be ordering a JMO torque converter.