NOFX

Okay, I just did this yesterday and want to write it down while it's still fresh in my mind.

Keep in mind that this isn't a day-long process, but it's definitely not a quick install because of the difficulty in removing the blower motor assembly. It's possible to remove the blower motor assembly without removing the dash, but it's a tight squeeze. Removing the blower motor assembly is not as easy as this thread lead me to believe.

My Experience

About a week and a half ago I got into my '93 Honda Accord EX sedan to find that I had no air. We turned the **** back and forth, but the blower motor wouldn't turn on for any setting.

A friend (who had been in the driver's seat) checked the fuse (7.5A) and it looked good, but just to check he replaced it with a 30A (NOT A GOOD IDEA). The blower kicked back on and worked for that ride, which was about ten miles perhaps, but wasn't working when the car started again. Both fuses looked fine though. I ended up putting the correct one back in.

I priced the different parts I thought it might be at Autozone:
- Blower motor ($120 with lifetime warranty)
- Blower motor resistor ($30)

Needless to say, I was hoping it'd end up being the resistor. Turns out my friend's suggestion of it most likely being the resistor was spot on!

First off, some advice, YES your interior fan can just plain stop working if the blower motor resistor is bad. It does not have to, but can go out intermittently or some settings might work while others won't. But yes, it can also just plain stop working all together.

Anyway, on to the disassembly and installation instructions!

Please keep in mind that this was done on the BUTTON TYPE climate control. There might be some differences on the LEVER TYPE climate control equipped vehicles!


Tools

- Phillips Screwdriver
- 10mm deep socket
- Ratchet
- ~2-4 inch Extension
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
- Plastic baggie or bucket for your screws
- Vacuum with hose (some shop vacs might be too large)
- Another pair of hands could really help!


Instructions

***Unfortunately I did not take photos when I did this. If anyone else has GOOD photos, I will add them to the post.***

If you have a Honda Service Manual, these instructions should start around page 15-2.


1

Turn the car on and select that the air come from outside the car. Honda's literature didn't mention this to me and it could have caused me to damage the door that opens so air from within the car will be sucked up from the passenger foot area and into the blower! Not to mention it's best that the blower assembly be as small as possible for this job. Turn the car off when you're done.

2



Open the glove box and using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the unique screw and washer holding the glove box damper to the right side of the glove box. Let the damper swing down. It shouldn't get in the way for the next step. Close the glove box when you're done.

3

Get under the glove box and look for two dark screws, one on either hinge. Remove those using the Phillips screwdriver. Watch out when because the glove box will try to swing out at the bottom when you remove these screws. Open the glove box and remove it. Set the glove box aside.

4

There is a metal bar going across the bottom of the glove box area. This is the glove box frame. On either side of this frame there are two screws apiece. There is a fold of dashboard vinyl covering them, so gently fold them away. Remove the screws using the Phillips screwdriver and set the glove box frame aside.

5A - NO AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPPED CARS



If you don't have air conditioning, you can remove the self tapping screws holding the heater duct on the car. The heater duct is to the immediate left of the blower motor assembly.

5B - AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPPED CARS

Remove the floor mat. Turn over the carpet on the front of the passenger front floor and pull it back as much as you can without damaging anything.



Pull the interior colored side cover away (it has three clips holding it in place) and set it aside.

The large silver plate is the ECU bracket. Using the ratchet, 10mm deep socket and extension, remove the nuts holding this bracket in place. There are two on top and two on the bottom. Remove the bracket when you are done. It might need to be rocked back and forth to get it off. You can unplug the ECU and set this aside (it might be easier to remove the three nuts holding the ECU to the bracket before you unplug it all).



Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws from the bottom of the blower under cover. Set the cover aside.

Using the needle nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the tiny clip on the front of the blower assembly. Set this blower cover aside also.

Unplug the clear-ish plug to the top left of the blower motor assembly.

Use the Phillips screwdriver or ratchet, 10mm deep socket and extension to remove the metal band holding the left side of the blower assembly to the heater assembly next to it. Set the metal band aside (yes, it's still probably attached to the harness you just unplugged, but it shouldn't need to be separated).

6



Disconnect the connectors on the bottom right of the blower assembly. These are the blower motor resistor (large brown plug), recirculation control motor (plug) and the blower motor (plug).

Using the ratchet, 10mm deep socket to remove the nuts holding the blower assembly in place. You will want an extension for all but the upper right nut, which might be in too tight of an area for you to want to use the extension.

7

Open the passenger front door and use a flathead screwdriver to pop the two round covers off the right side of the dash.

Remove the two bolts under the covers using the ratchet and 10mm socket.

8

The removal of the actual blower motor assembly is the worst part of this job. You might want that extra pair of hands now.

Have your friend CAREFULLY pull the freed right side of the dash away (toward the rear of the car) so you can remove the blower assembly. This might take several tries!

Removing the bracket on the bottom right that holds the plugs in place might help too. It seems the blower assembly catches on a large bundle of wires behind and to the right of it.

9

Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the resistor in place. Disconnect the plug from the bracket.

Replace the old resistor with the new one.

10

Now is the time to use that vacuum to remove all the dirt, leaves and pine needles from the heater assembly.



Installation is the reverse of removal. Honda recommends you use double sides adhesive to hold those two little flaps of the dashboard back in place, but my car didn't need it.

search terms : blower motor resistor resister air conditioner air conditioning a/c ac heater cold hot cool no air no fan dash button lever slide slider control setting high low mid middle

Eran

iTrader: (1)

I will vouch that this sucks *****. Try and have your blower motor / resistor go out on you when it's between 55 and 70 degrees ... not 100 degrees.

Foxyhondagal

Thanks, this was a great help! Used the Hayes Manual to get all of the connections and electrical disconnected from the blower motor, (my 92 Accore has a/c), but could NOT get the #*%?^ thing out. The manual does not mention anything about removing those dash bolts, but I though that was probably what I needed to do. Am just learning to do my own repairs. Have been diong my own tun-ups, plugs wires and general stuff for years, but had to replace the trans com, and got one free from my son. It went in great, and the Hayes Manual made this look just as easy. Would have been if the motor hadn't been installed with s shoe horn. With this tip i hope I will have the old one out tomorrow.

The illustrations were very good. Are they from a schematic?

NOFX

The illustrations are from the Helms manual, which is the shop manual brand Honda uses. You can buy Helms manuals for Hondas at the dealership for about $60 new and about $30 used (if available).

There have been a few members on this site selling them in the marketplace for $30 or so also. Pretty much every Honda model is covered by it's own Helms manual.

They're far better than the Haynes or Chiltons manuals too. Helms manuals go over just about EVERYTHING on the car. They're much more detailed.

Just make sure when you do this that you give yourself plenty of time. The removal and installation of the actual assembly is the biggest hassle of the entire thing.

Glad I could help!

Mr_Sixx

Something tells me I'm going to have fun doing this. About how long did this take you altogether?

NOFX

I did this several times because first I replaced the resistor and then I had to take everything back out again to do the motor.

I'd say it took me a few hours. This was in 100+ degree humid weather summer of '09, so it's hard for me to give a good estimate on how long it too.

When the assembly itself comes out and goes in it will have to tumble though. It's a really tight fit.

Mr_Sixx

Oh wow. I'm sure that had to suck in that hot of weather. If I don't do it soon, I'm going to be doing it in cold weather. Just have to get the funds to pay for it.

huskyfan01

I have had a hard time finding the full "blower assembly". I am adventurous, but I am just not sure which of the many parts has failed. I would hate to get the motor and resistor and have the failure also relate to other things. I found this part number 79300-SM4-A02 as representing the full assembly (all the stuff in the box I pulled out following the great instructions here). But I am having a hard time finding it as one "package" I will be calling salvage yards, but I am interested in what this forum would recommend. Thanks!

gfam

Thanks for these great directions! I'm in the process of taking it apart now and have a probably stupid question and the answer may become more obvious as I progress. But why do you need to take off the ECU panel?
Thanks!
Donna

NOFX

Just a 10mm socket. Same as the instructions mentioned. Comes off at a weird angle, I think and needed to be rocked back and forth. It's been awhile since I did this job...

gfam

Not what but why?
Thanks!

NOFX

Because that blower assembly barely has room to come out. Removing the ECU panel gives you a tiny bit more clearance.

gfam

ok. That's what I thought. THanks.

jdmkid1989

I have a question everytime i turn the ac on it makes a really loud annoying noise what can it be????

Pilot911

OK, pulled it out, put new heater blower motor in, hooked it all back up, turned on ignition, SHAZAM! working! BUT..... when button switched to 'recirculate" makes hideous loud buzzing noise, has something to do with the linkage on the housing of the blower motor. Not sure what to do next... HELP! Could be resister? Linkage? Is the resister supposed to get hot? Do I have linkage improperly hooked up? It seems the issue is the "vent trap doors' on the housing are not opening/shutting which is (I am guessing) a linkage issue. .....
We have a break in the weather, but it gets COLD in there, need this done by Sunday. email me jrivers76@yahoo.com. Call 580-682-0934 if ya got any insight. thanks!

ndccpf1

I have the glove box out on a 1992 LX sedan and the lower blower motor cover off where I can reach in and see the fan "hamster wheel" blades and I can spin by hand but it does not run on any speed. Question....... do I need to remove the blower motor assembly to get to the resistor ? Looks like it is on far left side via this diagram:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ER&vinsrch=yes

NOFX

I had to remove the blower assembly to get to the resistor on this car. Perhaps there's an easier way, but that's what I had to do twice.

redbull-1

Refer to post #3 in this thread:

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...esistor-29656/

Dambrosia

New to the fourm. Just wanted to say thanks for a website like this. Just saved me time and grief with a quick fix until I have time to do the job right. Here was my solution.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...97&postcount=7

Worked like a charm!

Knightrider03m

This is what was wrong with mine as well. However I would like to add that there is two screws on mind (towards the front, one on each side) along with the clips. But I was able to reinstall the cover without putting the screws back in.

Okhi

Thank you NOFX. I went ahead and followed the instructions. Here are my comments on my 93 fix:

Heater blower motor assembly is on the right hand side of the drivers glove compartment so you need to take everything out as described in the original instructions.

1. Use Amazon.com for a auto configurator feature to order the transistor part. The first one I recieved was wrong from another site and the Amazon site indicated that the replacement part as pictured would not work and correctly confirmed the right part with the pig tail of wires for $26 and free shipping.
2. I took pictures w/ flasjh for each part I took out and it was a real help when I had to put everything back.

It really helped with this section:


5B.

Use the Phillips screwdriver or ratchet, 10mm deep socket and extension to remove the metal band holding the left side of the blower assembly to the heater assembly next to it. Set the metal band aside (yes, it's still probably attached to the harness you just unplugged, but it shouldn't need to be separated).

and

Step: 7 Open the passenger front door and use a flathead screwdriver to pop the two round covers off the right side of the dash.

Remove the two bolts under the covers using the ratchet and 10mm socket.
************************************************** ****************
The reason the blower assembly is so hard to take out is because of this metal band also is wrapping the back side and it's good to take out the two screws holding this tightly in. It drops out pretty easy when you pull back and up on this top of the cover on Step 7 below and jam in a screw driver 1" round handle near the door panel and the cover to keep it separated but be gentle since it's not too strong. Didn't need another pair of hands. It was hard to put it back in after I replaced the transistor resistor and this is where the pictures really helped. I screwed in the back screw and sligtly loosened the front screw on the rear band and it was easier to jiggle the blower assembly in to its spot and tighten the band screws in place.

I plugged in everything and it worked just perfectly. Just as I suspected it was the blower motor transistor resistor and would only cost $26 to replace and about 4 hours vs. replacing any other part since it was working intermittently before finally not working.

Thanks everyone for the instructions. It was the best with diagrams that I really needed. The utube videos didn't help since I couldn't find all the information I needed in one place for the accord 93.



Lastly, Also to remove the plugs, I used flat head screw driver to press down on the center of the plug on top and pressed down which made it easier to come out.

ddr4040

Just wanted to add another Thank You to the OP. Just replaced the blower motor this past weekend in my 93 LX and the pics were very helpful.

hodorbaker

This was very useful. Thanks very much! I managed to snap some pictures as I put mine back together. You're welcome to use them if you like. They are at https://goo.gl/photos/ieQYh4QD8hXndY5H6

Shurt24

Reviving an ancient thread—

1990 EX, used this walk—through today (2023). It was excellent. Thank you.