epedomic

Im considering buying a JDM B18 ITR full swap for my 1990 CRX SI.

now the question is how do i get it to hit 300 horses?? Im not even sure if this is possible without going with F/I but i wana know what i can do to try to achieve this goal.

This is an original JDM B18C so its rated at 200hp not 180hp like the B18c5, it came off a 1997 JDM ITR.

The engine comes with a 4-1 race header, skunk 2 pro series intake manifold (red), skunk 2 fuel rail, skunk 2 throttle body, and a "high dollar cold air intake", other than that, the motor is completely stock. also comes with a stage 1 clutch and a JDM LSD type R tranny so i will need the cable to hydraulic conversion.

now, with all that being said, how could i get or try to get 300hp?? I would like to get more out of it but i know its gonna be a pain in the *** because i plan on keeping it N/A. I would be more than happy hitting around 289-290 though, so if its just a couple horsepower gains and not worth the money, please point it out, thanks!!

obviously upgrading the camshafts would add performance but ive heard the JDM B18C camshafts are good enough as it is, and i dont wana spend hundreds of dollars to only gain like 10hp.

What can i do guys!!?? please help me on this one, thanks!!!

D16SiHatch

without boost hitting 300 is pretty much impossible, you'd have to spend wayyy more money to come close to that mark than what it would cost if you went with boost. problem is you really shouldn't be doing so with a motor that has such high compression. if you want 300hp you could for less money get a low mileage ls or b20 and boost that.

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

300whp n/a isn't something you can daily drive. Go turbo.

A stock ITR can be boosted to make 300whp, make sure you have big injectors and a great tuner.

epedomic

yeah 300hp isnt gonna happen.

O well, how about 250hp??

that sounds reasonable and i think it would be within my budget.

4drEF

Probably looking at resleeving and boring out to some large number
Then high compression which won't play nice with normal pump gas.
Probably need a few heads to send off to have flow benched to get the best you can out of the one head you plan to use.
Header to open exhaust for low restriction.
Intake manifold work for flow to milk it for extra ponies.
Maybe stock cams will do, but aftermarkets to squeeze out some extra power.
Could go with electric pumps to free up some power from less drag on the belt.
Injectors manditory.
Tuning like no other.

In for the build!

adee

just get the type R and boost it for sure with no worries u will be in the 300+ or more

trrex510

Yeah bro i.got a ctr engine in my 90 crx and i had the same plans but as u already hear its possible to.hit 300hp with put boost and just keeping it alll motor but its gone burn.a whole through ypur.pockets badly lol its gona be super expensive easy way is yo.boost it and save money and time

q16racer

your going to spend 1000's upon 1000's for 120hp.

unless you get that through your head and are prepared to spend roughly 10k, then dont even consider a race motor/setup.

the other question is who is going to do the work? if you are going to pay someone else to do all the way plan on adding a few more thousand.

300 out of a B....can it be done? sure. if you are talking flywheel hp ok....a little easier to obtain. wheel hp is a completely different subject. just those extra 15-20whp will cost you thousands.

good luck.

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

What's your budget?

FlewByU352

dumb statement

My friend daily drove on C16 so STFU and GTFO for speaking of snails.

Best question yet and that is the only question you have to ask yourself is how deep are your pockets?

Now for my ****:
Keep in mind that by the time you are done you now longer have much of the original motor left. I have seen an off the shelf B series make 300whp. Look into sleeving the motor, new pistons, rods, cams, proper ITB's, quality header... If you bought a Type R motor with the intent on building it right away you wasted your money. Expect to spend $1000 on exhaust, $2000 on intake, $1000 on tuning... again how deep are your pockets?

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

You and your friend are clowns. You really think building a stroked and very highly modified n/a B series is a much better option than running a 50 trim turbo on pump gas? Why the **** would anyone dd a car on c16???

Cmon man, don't be ridiculous.

OP, you want 300whp without burning a giant hole in your pocket or going way beyond your understanding of building the damn thing? Go turbo.

300whp can and will not be done with a stock stroke/stock bore 1.8 liter.

D.O.C.-Race

300whp crazzzzyyyy ALL MOTOR. A shop I used to work at built a 280whp B series race-car (Mustang Dyno) and that thing was ridiculous. The dyno will also be important on correction factors to get that TRUE number because you know people on HT love the number. In the real world budget or not, 300whp N/A is very un-realistic with my experience so you should decide what you want to use the car for first and foremost. Good luck on your build sounds like a solid foundation!

B20vEf9

I'm sure TB's car makes over 300, but that's no daily drive able IMO.

If you want to make 300whp NA and Daily drive it go with a K series.

Y2K Si FBP

noobs gotta start somewhere...heh

u want that kinda power on a lower budget...spray...or go turbo...N/A is not for you!

Aesthetic Gains

iTrader: (1)

Damn.
Reading these statements makes my hopes of hitting 290whp seem hopeless. How many of you guys have tried to get to 300whp on a B series?

FlewByU352

He daily drove on C16 because he could. The garage was stocked with barrels from VP Racing which isn't cheap but neither is having a 450whp per liter daily. Sure it broke down quite often from stupid things but it was his only means to get to work and around town.

1998GsRIntegra

I'm pretty sure T-Bone is the only person that has gotten close to a 300whp NA B-Series.

Someone help me out here...is it C16 or Q16 or am I thinking of something totally different?

PyroProblem

If you really want 300 WHP, take your type R block and sell everything but the block and bare head. Everything else will need replaced...

Sleeved block (BIG bore/sleeving requires $$)
BIG stroke crank
BIG cams with supporting valvetrain
Badass headwork (Big $$)
and most importantly, a BIG bank account!

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

if the OP has E85 in his area, he can use that instead of race gas, alot cheaper! 300whp N/A out of a B-series is not a easy task and not easy on the pockets.

FlewByU352

"C16™
Used in turbocharged engines, blown engines and nitrous applications with CRs up to 17:1. Recommended by the top nitrous oxide companies. Spec Fuel for NHRA Comp Eliminator."

"Q16™
Q16 will work well in any drag racing application -- naturally aspirated, nitrous or blowers.
Q16 is highly oxygenated, requiring a 4-6% increase in fuel flow, which will make 3-5% more power than competitive 116 octane fuels. Q16's oxygenation will significantly expand the range of air/fuel ratio acceptability, so performance will be more consistent and won't vary as dramatically with altitude or density changes. For bracket racers, variations in ET from run to run will be substantially reduced. This added fuel flow also effectively increases its octane by 6-8 numbers above its standard ASTM octane rating."

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

450whp per liter??

Last time I checked, pump gas and e85 are a lot cheaper than c16.

B20vEf9

Ericks Racing

TB Motorworx

I think b23 vtec on here is building a setup that may hit that.

FlewByU352

LMK when you can get something to make 450whp per liter on 100 octane, you will have made drag racing a whole lot cheaper for everyone.

viperjng

Hi,

I think a realistic target on pump gas for a daily driver would be about 250-260whp with a all out build that would burn a deep hole in your pockets.

I have the same motor and have gone all out(guys lemme know if i have left anything out that I can do to get some more horses) and could get about 245whp on 93octane DD tune and 260whp on a drag tune with 97 Octane keeping lots of safety margins as this is my dd as well.


Money is not a problem and have spent on the best stuff that I was advised on.

Jignesh

epedomic

wow, thanks for all the responses guys!!

Yeah well im getting the whole swap for 3k, after that i was gonna try to save up another 1.5-2k through christmas money and my tax return, (so this isnt going to be installed just yet) turbo on this type-R would be nice but i definitely dont have that amount of money, i would be better off boosting a GSR which i plan to do on later on in life. right now i just have a mildly modded b18a1 and im hungry for more, so i wana keep this b18c N/A and just upgrading a few pieces to add performance.

After doing some research and based on my budget, im gonna try to go for 250 horses but i would be more than happy with 230.

So... lets say i have about 2k just for pieces (not counting installation) what are my best bets to go on here??