boostdvic

I have a 94 honda civic dx 5 speed. When i turn the key to on position the check engine light doesn't cycle off. I have to jiggle my key until i hear the fuel pump relay run click on and click off. i have been driving my car with just the car key in the ignition cause if i hit a big bump and jiggles the key just enough my car quits then i have to sit wherever i am and jiggle my key until the mil light goes off. Otherwise my car will just crank and crank and crank cause the mil hasn't shut off like its supposed to after 2 second when the ignition is in the on position.

could it be a bad lock cylinder for the ignition?
is it the ignition itself?
could the spark plate in the ignition be worn?
or is it something else?

I would really appreciate some help.
Thanks

Former User

1) Test the ignition switch:



2) Resolder the main relay:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

3) Make sure the G101 ground wire is clean and tight:

boostdvic

Thanks man, i really hope this is the problem. Do you or anyone else have any other advice?

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

RonJ@HT always points you in the right direction, my thoughts were to do the ignition switch test procedures and he beat me to it. Just go through what he suggested and post up your results.

boostdvic

well i finally got some time to look at my car today....

there is continuity through both connectors

i take it that my main relay has **** the bed?

boostdvic

NEW ISSUE!

i went and bought a new main relay and that wasn't the problem. i looked at my fuel pump wires under the back seat and they were all gunked up with god know what. I only had ether at the time to clean the gunk out with. i got both connectors cleaned out good and plugged them back in...the pump came on for 2 seconds and cycled off and my car started fine....

i began to head home and when i stopped for gas i put 10 bucks in, went to start my car and the pump didnt cycle and my MIL light didnt go off, so my car didnt start. i sat at the gas station trying to jiggle the two connectors to cycle the MIL off, but nothing happened...

today, i proceeded to test the fuel pump and with the ign on i tested for battery voltage at the pump connector and it didnt show any so i proceeded to check the main relay....I checked the relay for continuity through all terminals it told me to do and the relay checked out fine according to the diagram i got from the link above....

Now i dont know what to do next, which is why im seeking advice from Ronj@HT or anyone else...something must have happend from the point when i turned my car off at the gas station and put $10 worth in and went to try and start it again.

anything?

thanks

Former User

Did you clean and tighten the G101 ground?

boostdvic

the g101 ground (next to the thermostat) is clean and tight. damn Honda lol. anything else?

thanks for the help

boostdvic

is there anything else i can try?

Former User

Have you checked whether fuse 31 or 24 is blown?

boostdvic

yes i have checked all fuses under the dash and in the engine compartment and they are all good! this damn car problem is a mystery unfortunately.

hondaslayer

I would go back and check the ig switch again.

boostdvic

i finally found out the problem with my vic, just havent been on here in a while since i figured it out on the day of my last post....

i googled 94 honda civic dx cranks but wont start....

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...art-28327.html

Former User

Yep, a bad ECU as evidenced by low reference voltage (<5V) from the ECU to the MAP sensor. That's actually a common problem for 92-95 Civics.

boostdvic

yeah thats what i read and heard from a few different people. to me, that sounds like a stupid design flaw that Honda has for that generation.

boostdvic

I'm still experiencing the no start with my car after doing...

Basic info: 94 civic Dx boosted.

My car is experiencing the common problem with this gen which is where the fuel pump doesnt kick on and the CEL stays on. It will crank over but no start.

-so far i have checked the ground by the thermostat housing
-tested voltage between pin D19 and D21 on the ECU harness
-checked 5v reference at the map sensor connect
-Jumped my Main relay to confirm that both relays inside are working properly
-installed my 440cc injectors in
-replaced stock fuel pump w/ walbro high flow pump

I just bought a new ECU package from HAmotorsports with s300 program (basetune for 440cc inj.) to replace S200. I was hoping the ECU was the problem but the CEL is still staying on and the fuel pump is not kicking on. When I plug the usb cord from the new ECU to the computer and turn the ign. on it doesnt even recognize the drivers for the computer.

Now I'm back at a stand still and dont want to throw any parts at it, its really starting to test my patience level.

Is there anything else i can do to try to get my car back to running...Iv searched through many forums (honda-tech etc.) followed the diagram instructions for testing components and im still coming up short somewhere

Thanks for any other suggestions etc.
Matt

Former User

What test was this? Did you resolder the main relay?

Do you measure continuity to body ground at (unplugged) ECU connector terminals A23, A24, A26, and B2?

Do you measure battery voltage to body ground at (unplugged) ECU connector terminals A25 and B1 with the key in ON(II)?

DropSquadCivic

With the vehicle in the on position unplug and plug the main relay see if it switches on.

boostdvic

I lent out my DVOM to a buddy of mine so i wont be able to test for continuity between ECU terminals, but i did take a look at th main relay and listened for the clicks. I discovered corrosion around to pins on the relay and i took the case off of it and there is corrosion around one side of the circuit board in it. The last time i checked it was last fall and it was clean as a whistle, so it must of happened over the duration. I tried to plug it in with the ign on anyways and the click was very faint.

Im gonna buy a new one tomorrow and hopefully that is the issue because everything else has checked out so far.

DropSquadCivic

good luck man let us know

boostdvic

tested for spark with spark tester, all checked out good...when i grounded the spark tester to the battery, it would crank over and start for a split second or two and shut off (random)...anyone have a diagnosis chart for checking the fuel system...i can hear the fuel pump click on and click off when ign on.



this is what my tach does when I turn the ignition on while the fuel pump cycles

any other options as well?

thanks,
Matt

boostdvic

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1313363583

street_racer_271

iTrader: (8)

replace the ignition switch... my brother had the same problem, he had to take a screw driver and press against the wires underneith and then crank it over

The Chevy Noob

/\/\ just 2 weeks ago i bought a 94 civic lx... My first japanese car ever...so naturally it all looked foreign...drove it a goood thousand or so miles.....then it wouldnt continue to run more than a turn or two after i let go of the starter..... 3 oclock yesterday morning...{"oh fk electrical isssue on japanese car baaaaad"} searched all over under the hood for the problem... and found none...but just now noticed that as the motor stalled, so did the heater, gauges and radio{"wait a minute"} tried to start it again.. but didnt let go of the key, and instead held it nearly far enough to leave the starter engaged...
And *holy ***** it kept running----a worn-out ignition keyswitch
Never Had An Ign Switch go out on any other vehicle before--ever.....

-But what do I know? I'm just a Chevy noob...

delsolintegra

I would try a stock P-28 ECU to see if it will start the car.
My 93 del sol ECU went bad from moisture. The car would crank forever but not start.