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Hi, my 98 teg wont start at times. So im thinking it can be the ignition switch. But what are some of the signs of it being bad? Like appearance and things of that sort. Thanks
Search these forums for ignition switch, main relay, starter.. and see if you can discern the symptoms and diagnostics for each.
You haven't given us much information to work with. For example - does *anything* happen when you turn on the key (hint - activity with lights in the instrument cluster)? Any relays click? Fuel pump run for a second or two? ABS cycle? Hear a loud click when you turn the key to 'start' but no turning of the engine? Engine spinning but no 'fire'?
Those details will help nail down where the problem lies..
Thanks for advice and stuff, but i'm simply asking the symptoms of a bad switch. Not looking to get answers of why my car won't start. But i took a look at the switch yesterday and took a picture. Would this call for a replacement?
No, that's just oxidation and wear from the pot-metal part of the ignition assembly.
The place where the attention is needed is inside.. you can clean the contacts and re-lube them if you're so inclined. There seems to be significant current passing through the contacts, and they arc and become pitted over time.
There are articles here (and elsewhere) describing the process; seems fairly straightforward and doesn't require special tools (etc).
When my ignition switch went bad, there would be a pause when i turned the key to the start position. nothing would happen for a few seconds and then it would start right up. the pause started getting longer and longer. And then eventually when i turned the key to start, nothing would happen at all, the dash lights didnt even come on. But if i remember correctly i think the starter relay was still clicking.
When you say, car does not start, do you mean it cranks, [turns over] but will not start, or do you mean it will not even crank?
You will have to "open" the ign switch to see if there is a problem or use a test light on the output leads to see if they have power when they are supposed to... http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html 94
When you say, car does not start, do you mean it cranks, [turns over] but will not start, or do you mean it will not even crank?
You will have to "open" the ign switch to see if there is a problem or use a test light on the output leads to see if they have power when they are supposed to... http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html 94
Sorry to bother you, but i saw your post here and was wondering if you could help me on my post since we are having the issue you were asking OP about. I opened up a new thread. Thank you
Sorry to bother you, but i saw your post here and was wondering if you could help me on my post since we are having the issue you were asking OP about. I opened up a new thread. Thank you
One easy way to test your ignition, is if the car starts, and continues to run while you HOLD THE KEY IN START the ignition is in fact bad. First of all though, turn the key and see if the check engine light turns off. If it doesn't the problem is your ECU. Now if the CEL (check engine light) turns off, and you dont hear your fuel pump, its probably your fuel pump relay located on the driver side, behind the dashboard.
Between a worn cylinder, gummed up cylinder tabs, and bad switch, I just replaced the entire ignition assembly on my 2000 Odyssey. Here's a detailed write-up of the process:Replace Ignition Assembly on a 2000 Honda Odyssey
As for the switch itself, burnt residue from arcing across the contacts may coat the contact surfaces leading to intermittent completion of the start circuit. Judging from the wire gauge and soldering job on the switch, there's a butt-load of current going through that thing:
The black stuff on the rag was wiped off the metal contact surfaces within this switch.
Detail of the precipitated carbon smoke on the points cap of the switch:
Carbon crap build-up within the ignition switch.Replacing JUST the switch requires that you know your way around a high current solder job. BTW....i couldn't figure out any easy way to replace just the cylinder, despite taking apart the entire thing on my work bench.
Okay here's what's happening in my 91 Da. I would go to start it, it would crank, everything came on like normal but wouldn't start. So I turned the key for like 20 seconds and it would start when you held the key that long. Finally I changed a fuel filter, 40 amp main relay fuse, distributor, plugs & wires and spark plugs. Never ever found the ignition switch till tonight, it was sitting on the metal bar under my steering wheel, the bracket was on there but there was no bolts. My question is why when I turn my key it doesn't do anything at all, no dashboard lights at all and it doesn't click at all, could this all of happened because my switch lost it bolts?
One easy way to test your ignition, is if the car starts, and continues to run while you HOLD THE KEY IN START the ignition is in fact bad. First of all though, turn the key and see if the check engine light turns off. If it doesn't the problem is your ECU. Now if the CEL (check engine light) turns off, and you dont hear your fuel pump, its probably your fuel pump relay located on the driver side, behind the dashboard.
I know this is an old thread but can you or someone pls help. I have the same problem but when I turn the switch to start or acc my main relay wont click, or prime the fuel system(brand new main relay, not bad) and also the cel light wont turn off, but that I know that I am having problems with the ecu. Can it also be a bad ignition switch since it's not activating the main relay? Thanks in advance!
Hey Rafael Pastrana a way to test if the ignition switch is bad, get to the ignition switch, when you see the sawder in wires, use test light in them if they don't light up its a bad ignition switch, all your switches and accessories get power from the ignition switch
06-07-2011, 02:40 PM
Symptoms of a bad ignition switch?
