Käras

Ok, so upon troubleshooting some issues with my car, it seems the injectors were not spitting fuel out. So I went and got another pair, and put them in, and again, they arn't spitting. Is there a fuse/relay, that could be a problem, or would it be harness related? Its a 94 Civic EX with the d16Z6 and original Virgin P28.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Only 2 injectors?

Former User

Do the injector clips have battery voltage to body ground with the key in ON(II)?

Käras

I went and bought a Noid Light, and hooked it up, It seems there is no power getting to the injectors. I've read a few different threads, all of which are making this kinda costly. The two "issues" that it may or may not be are the Main relay, or the ECU. Is there a easy way to test either to see if they are the problem? I don't have an abundance of extra parts to try this stuff around with. Any help is appreciated. Not having a car is really hurting.

Former User

What makes you think the injectors don't get power? What did you see?

fasterthanueg

iTrader: (1)

Check the ground plug on the driver side.

Käras

The Noid light testing thing I got, it says plug the right one into the clip (of the harness), and turn the key over as in trying to start it. If the light Flashes its getting power (pulsating), If not, then something is "wrong". Technically meaning, its not getting power.

@fasterthanueg Are you referring to the grounds in the motor bay? If so I just replaced them. The old ones were corroded and falling apart.

NotAJDMFanBoy

Usually the main relay manifests itself as a random no start condition, usually temperature related. The ECU is a possibility but it would be wise to check every other possibility first. If you wanted to test it and know someone with a Honda, any ECU, P28, P06, P72, P30 will run about any other motor (not recommended to drive it around, but purely for testing, it's fine).

For the grounds, take each one off and clean the mating surfaces with a wire brush or sand paper and reattach.
Make sure nobody took the weird plug out from where a resistor box would fit. And make sure all the other cannon plugs and ECU plugs are connected. Take each loose and put back in to make sure there's a connection. Corrosion is obviously a possibility on a 17 year old car.

NotAJDMFanBoy

Don't our cars have constant power, but the ground is interfered with for the injectors?

And did this problem start right after replacing the ground cables? Maybe you connected it somewhere there wasn't a good connection?

Käras

Ill defiantly do all that. I actually made the ground wires myself with 10 gauge wire, and some end connectors. I honestly can't say for sure it started at that point. I think it happened after I tried changing my cap and rotor, which to me seems like it shouldn't effect that. Ill go back and re-check the grounds, make sure they are on right, and no corrosion. Ill check all the plugs as well. As for that relay, I would have to go to the junkyard to grab one. My question for that would be, does it have to be from a D16, or would a D15 one work as well?

Former User

You are over-interpreting what a noid tester measures. The injectors receive constant voltage via the ignition switch, and the ECU tells the injector when to fire by providing ground for this voltage. The noid tester only tells you whether the ECU is providing the pulsating ground. You need to use a multimeter or test light to check whether the injector clips get voltage.

Käras

Actually. all it is is a light bulb that you can connect to the harness. If the Light stays on you have that constant power, if the light blinks, it shows its pulsating. Mine however doesn't light up at all.
But if I go by what you just told me, then I might be having a problem with my ignition switch? Or would that not allow my spark plugs to fire as well (they do though).

old buba

Eliminate your ground problem - 1st use a jumper cable from your ground directly to the battery ground. I hope you did not ground it to a plastic or fiberglass fender. Next take the air filter hose off the throttle body and have someone push down on the gas while starting the engine while you spray starting fluid past the throttle plate. This will start the engine even without fuel, it will sometimes help it get going again.

Former User

Is this a homemade rig? Describe how you test the harness with your light.

fasterthanueg

iTrader: (1)

I was talking about this plug. If its not plugged in or messed with the pump won't turn on or objectors won't work. hope this helps. Good luck

Käras

www.otctools.com Noid-lite Set. Its a real test set for almost any car. I work at Napa, so I buy real tools. I don't do anything cheap when it comes to my car, but I won't pay someone that I don't trust knows what they are doing. I have to go to work right now, but Ill check that plug Fasterthanueg. The pic helps a lot.

@old buba, The ground wire from the battery was originally mounted to the Throttlebody (not my doing, it was how I got it, and I have no clue how the eff I missed it). I got a regular ground wire mounted how it should be. (OEM ground from a junked civic)

Former User

The link brings me to a site not the Noid light. Post the manufacturer's instructions for using the light.

Again, if this^ is the standard noid light that you plug into the injector clip, it will NOT tell you whether the injector plug gets voltage. If the noid light neither turns on nor pulses, then the problem is either no power or no ground at the injector clip. You now need to use a test light or multimeter to determine whether injector clips have battery voltage with the key in ON(II).