douglasalways

I have a 1996 honda accord that is doing the same thing.I was driving home and the speedometer and tach both dropped to zero, and that lights shut off. They came back on a few minutes later, aand the clock still read the correct time (battery connection waas fine). I stopped at a stop sign , pushed in the clutch and it died. I tried several times to start it, but it would immediately dies after it started. I checked all the fuses inside out in the motor compartment with a light checker ( idk what it is really called ) adn replaced the fuse filter. Im not sure what else to do.

hondaaccordsohc

I am having a similar problem with my 95 accord, except mine is auto.
Is is sometimes ok when driving and other times acts up, and acting up alittle with the rpms before it shuts off? also is it only happening when you brake or hit the clutch, then may drive fine once it starts in a few min.?

poorman212

Do either of you have any stored codes-the 95 is OBDI and the 96 is OBDII but still have the connector under the glove box.

When the car(s) stop running, need to find out what is missing-spark or fuel.

Honda-your post is a bit confusing. You say it is an auto but dies when you hit the clutch? Also the tach acting up leads me to think you have an ICM/ignitor issue...one of the wires drives the tach.

Doug-try wiggling the key when running, does that cause the car to die? Or, if you hold the key "slightly" forward after cranking, will it stay running. Neither are a true test but might give some clues.

douglasalways

it just will not stay running at all. It turns over and runs like 1-2 seconds, then dies immediately. Im pretty sure it is the OBDII. Wiggling the key doesnt do anything. Im pretty sure it isn't the fuel pump, I have good pressure at the fuel rail. My next guess is the coil. What do you think?

phootbag

By "wiggling" the key I think he means to gently rotate the key back and forth from the 'ON' position. I've replaced many ignition switches for a symptom like yours.

rival12

Ignition Switch!






*note you have to separate this thing into two to install it.*

pliskin679

i went out to my car today and the same thing is happening to mine... i have a 98 f23. the turns over, starts for a split second and dies... some times it doesnt start and just cranks.. im going to check the fuel filter to make sure it isnt clogged or anything.

Balwin

When this happened to me it was the ignition coil.

bgdriver

Annah

I also have a very similar issue with my car. It is also an automatic honda accord 1996 . The only difference is that my car shuts down when I hit the break or slow down. Then i can turn it on right away but if I break or slow down, the same thing will happen. Also the engine light wont go off. The car has already been 7 times in the mechanic shop and the scanner will not detect any problems. It is very frustrating

76 camaro car

I had a problem kind of like that. The car would start and immediatly shut off. After $90. in towing fees and $270. at the dealership turned out to be the ignition switch.

curtie94

If it dies when you hit the brake check the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster. If there is a vacuum leak there the car will stall immediatly, but then start right back up.

phootbag

If there were a leak at the booster severe enough to stall the car you'd have an extremely stiff pedal. Also, vacuum leaks on carbureted engines causes stalling. Vacuum leaks on fuel injected vehicles causes high rpms and surging.

Annah

Well, the pedal is not stiff at all and the RPMS do not increase, on its contrary they drop. But I'm still going to take it back to the mechanic and have them check the vacume line.

hm_badazz

i am also having similar problems, i have a 1995 honda accord lx, swapped it to a standard trans. from a 95 prelude a few months ago and was running fine. recently started acting up, having to keep trying to start it like 10 or 15 times till it catches and stays on. been reading the forums and getting advice but so far no luck. i have checked the fuel pump and it works fine, inspected and cleaned the key ignition contacts, inspected the distributor and had to replace the inner seal, installed a new main relay, checked for spark and fuel pressure and they're good, everything seems fine but still it happens. i'm thinking the problem could be between the ignition and distributor ?

P_Adams

Ignition switch
Main Relay
Throttle Body Service

All good suspects, but only two mentioned the ignition system.
For those so inclined, take a fresh spark plug; choose the plug wire of your choice and lay this on top of the valve cover - start the engine. If the spark isn't white/blue and very apparent - inspect cap/rotor and suspect the coil.
Only one mentioned both the Tach and the Speedo going south.
This indicates a power interruption to the PCM; of which the ignition switch and the Main Relay play a part.
If you're on of THOSE people that insist on having EVERY KEY that they've ever possessed on the key chain, then I would again suspect the Ignition switch.
A dirty Throttle Body along with a lazy Idle Air Control Motor can cause these "drop to idle" stalls. Some cars never need service, some with challenged EGR systems can gunk up a throttle plate surprisingly well....

I'll check back and see how everyone's doing :-)

P

aicrag6901

Im having ignition switch problems also and was wondering if its possible to add one toggle switch (with the wires direct to it)to avoid it cutting out

lcrazyk

I had this same exact problem with the car dying out from driving and the needle dropping down straight to zero..It would start then die right away..the check engine light or other lights such as the abs on the panel (where the speedometer/odometer is at) didn't lit up when clicking the key to lll..not a battery problem or fuel pump problem or any of that stuff...had to pull over the freeway 3 times in one trip trying to get home...a friend and i checked the ignition switch and noticed it was dirty or rusty..so we gave it a try and he sanded down where the contacts on the switch were and got it cleaned up..the car started up just fine..try that out before spending that cash...good luck

RULEMKR

I'm have the same problem with 95 dx. Starts up and immediately dies. I have none of the other symptoms others described. Could the ignition switch still be the culprit?

aicrag6901

If you look at the photo from rival12,with that particular problem you need only change the switch witch in Canada runs about 60$+txt tell if that's your problem if your car won't start or dies immediately,restart your car won't and apply a bit of pressure like your going to start it again.if it does not die but dies only after releasing the key then its just the switch/wire assembly. Not the whole ignition switch where you place the key..this is located on the left side of your steering column at the very back of your ignition switch where the key goes.hope it helps!

poorman212

When it dies leave the key in the on position, check for 12v on the BLK/YEL wire at the dist.

RULEMKR

Moving the ignition switch does not seem to affect cranking. When it does crank: I've tried moving and shaking key in the ignition to see if it would die and it never does. Sometimes it will crank all day and the very next day...right back to the same thing.

RULEMKR

I will check this first thing tomorrow.

brian1990

I have a 1996 honda accord lx auto 2.2L 16 valve that when I back into a parkin space will stall and lock the breaks and stearing had the fuel filter changed then it stoppec for awhile then it started again I noticed it stalls when it goes past 3,000 rpms does any1 know what it can be causing this

RULEMKR

Car started right up this morning. I shook the key all around to see if it would stumble or stall and it did not affect anything. It started and ran continuosly
and consistenly every time.